6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
1) nothing
2) that will be difficult as it is late to order seeds so they are all swamped and running behind. Depends on the varieties you want. Local stores will be the fastest source.
3) no thermometer is required for any reason> See the How do I get started FAQ here Heat may is automatic and both dome and heat mat are removed just as soon as several of the seeds break the soil surface.
4) as soon as any break the soil surface, yes. So many just turn the lights on from the beginning.
5) another light? probably which is why the 4' lights are recommended. there are several current discussions here on lights - pics and all - as well as 2 FAQs on lights. How much room will it take? No way to know that. Depends on the number of plants and what you transplant them into.
Hardening off is not normally done with just germinated seedlings. That's an easy way to kill them quickly. Hardening off begins a week to 10 days before transplanting to the garden.
Please do check out all the FAQs here as they do cover all the basic questions and then some. These same questions come up weekly here so there are many advantages to having the FAQs so available.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs
Digdirt, hit it. Plants vary.
I don't consider it "stunting". Plants will wait until the right temperature/light cycle to take off, as long as they are not damaged.
Or just search "cosmos cold tolerance" (example) for each of your plants. One site says cosmos will tolerate 35 degrees.
The link below doesn't really pertain, but you can find similar that might. A lot of studies have been produced on the matter.
Bob
Here is a link that might be useful: frost tolerance
Most plants are surprisingly hardy at the early stages as long as they are not left too cold for extended amounts of time. If you are worried about the temperature and already planted just cover the little guys with a sheet or some good plastic overnight. The weather should be warming up pretty fast, and if not just blame that darn groundhog!
No it's not.
googleimages has lots of seedling pics for this particular plant that you can compare yours to.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Baobab seedling pics
Agree that unfortunately most store-bought produce are hybrids so seeds from them will not breed true and in some cases are sterile and will not breed at all. If it grows it will not produce the same type of melon but will revert back to one of its parents or some crossed variety that may or may not be edible.
If you know the name of the variety you can determine if it is a hybrid or not but there are very few non-hybrid melons.
It is up to you. If you want to try and see what happens and have the time and garden space, fine. Otherwise, if you really want melons you need to buy seeds.
Dave
I tried plantin from Landreth below Hollyhock (Indian Spring variety), Foxglover (digitalis), Butterfly weed, Bee Balm. Black Eyed susans
From Burpee I tried agastache and Bee Balm (2 sources), and Lavender.
None of these say plant directly in Ground since some do not transplant well at all. So I avoided these. I kept them waered well (moist), and the hollyhock is only one that came up, but then shriveled and died. I plan to try this again soon. Ill use the styrofoam approach with a cover and new potting soil from Miracle grow this time.
Thanks for everyone kind guidance here. I really appreicate everyones input. I teavel nearly 100% in my job making it hard (due to sheer exhaustion) to get on here to see who posted any feedback. i love this forum
I haven't seen it but have read of it, with some down time this evening I browsed a little for albinism in artichoke and it may not be all that uncommon in a given percentage from any lot of seed.
Several online mentions, and from Territorial Seed who I know to be reliable source of information- in their artichoke from seed description:
" Sow heavily and expect 70% germination. Of these seedlings, about 20% will not produce high quality plants. Cull out the small and albino plants."
Here is a link that might be useful: One mention at Territorial Seed
Hi Melissa67 - Desert (sp.) Rose is not a true rose (ie Rosa species) but an Adenium. There is a specialist Adenium Forum here on GW and I am sure someone over there will be able to help you further.
Here is a link that might be useful: Adenium aka Desert Rose
Young plants do not need fertilizer. Fertilizing seedlings will often set the back. I would say the ones in with your wifes plants probably have the right amount of moisture to grow better. Those fiber pots are useless. They dry out and mold. I tend to sprout seeds in a shallow communal pot and transplant into disposable drinking cups when they are ready. My favorite communal pot is mushroom flats with holes in the bottom.
Your lights should be an no more than an inch above your plants for optimal light exposure. The plants should not touch the bulbs though. Either lower your lights or raise your pots by putting something under them
Linked a bunch of potting-up discussions you might want to read through for more details.
When? Whenever you are comfortable handling them. There is no set time and you do not have to wait for true leaves they are just a bit easier to work with them. Handle only by the leaves, not the stem. If multiple plants together they need to be separated before the roots get all entangled. Do not leave more than 1 pant in a container.
If going to 16 oz solo cups then don't fill the cup. Too much soil for a young seedling. Instead fill it 1/2 full and transplant. Then as the plant grows you can add more soil around the stems. If using 9 oz cups go 3/4 full. If the plants are very leggy you can transplant deeply to just below the bottom set of leaves and bury all exposed stem. If they are not leggy then just plant them at the same depth they were.
No need to remove the soil. Some will fall off anyway, if not don't worry about it. Water before transplanting.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: potting up discusssions
Bah! those seeds will be totally fine. They can all take a frost and come back smiling. The seeds are more resilient than the tender leaves, and in my garden all those things can laugh in the face of frost even after they've germinated. The leaf lettuce in my garden took six or seven hard frosts last spring where it would be frozen solid in the morning, but the warmth of the day would thaw it and it would be delicious and crisp and ready to eat by dinner. I wouldnt worry at all about those seeds.
They may well be fine but as digdirt mentions a lot depends on the conditions in your garden. In a climate like mine ungerminated seeds sitting in cold damp soil generally rot or are eaten by various soil dwelling creatures or foraging birds. But since you can't unsow them I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. My current absolute nemesis is the soil dwelling slug which eats anything attempting to sprout.
Based on my personal experience with that particular mix, as well as several past discussions here and on other forums, I wouldn't use it for seed starting.
It works ok as a potting mix outside in really large containers for well developed plants but indoors or in small containers with young plants it keeps the soil too wet and that leads to all sorts of problems. Even the MG without moisture control or plain old inexpensive Jiffy Mix from Walmart works better.
So for your transplanting purposes it would depend on what size containers you will be using, how old the plants are, and how long before they can be transplanted to the garden? If you do use it you will have to monitor the soil moisture levels very carefully and only water when absolutely necessary.
What sources for potting mix do you have? Surely by now your big box stores and local nurseries have their mixes available.
Dave
PS: for future info the bags of garden soil say on the label "Not for use in Containers".
Thanks for the quick response. I think I already answered my own question, but just wanted someone else's perspective. I was lazy, and didn't want to take the time to drive, thinking I could get something that would work well locally (plus, I did tell the guy why I needed it...). So many lessons learned the hard way this year!
We have a great organic garden center that's a bit of a drive, but after all my efforts, will be worth the time and effort to visit.
I'll hang on to the MG; I plan to have some big pots for my patio this year.
Thanks again!
I just checked the bag, and you're right: the warning is there...in tiny lettering!
If you do some reading through this forum and the FAQs here you will find all sorts of pics folks have posted about their light set-ups. I linked several of them below that the search pulls up. And google images will bring up 100's of more pics.
If you only have 1 tray then a 2' fixture may work if it has enough lumens but the 4' fixtures and bulbs are much cheaper than the 2' ones are simply because they are much more common and in higher demand.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: light set-up discussions and pics
A shop light with reflectors and T8 daylight bulbs is what you need. One that has chains and a plug. Not one that is to be hard wired and has no plug.
The reflectors are important because they train the light down instead of all around the room. T8 bulbs have a full spectrum of light unlike many of the earlier fluorescent bulbs
Dave and dowlinggram, thanks so very much for your responses.
I did some more research and think you're absolutely right about my overwatering.
I did not know that the soil can be allowed to get dry with transplants. I thought that they needed daily watering for several days for their root systems....This is so helpful!
I will also get a fan---thanks so much for these tips. In the meanwhile, I'm really enjoying this whole process even though my learning curve is quite steep.
Take care and I look forward to learning from you as the season progresses.
Elisabeth
Dave and dowlinggram, thanks so very much for your responses.
I did some more research and think you're absolutely right about my overwatering.
I did not know that the soil can be allowed to get dry with transplants. I thought that they needed daily watering for several days for their root systems....This is so helpful!
I will also get a fan---thanks so much for these tips. In the meanwhile, I'm really enjoying this whole process even though my learning curve is quite steep.
Take care and I look forward to learning from you as the season progresses.
Elisabeth
I did not chill the initial ones I tried. And they are a few years old, having been kept sealed in an unheated garage. Maybe they've lost some vitality, but I figured they would be cool and dry there.
A while ago I put some of them to chill in the fridge for a few weeks and planted those..they haven't germinated. I also just propped up the container to be a little closer to the light.
This post was edited by wolfpup64 on Wed, Mar 20, 13 at 16:06
".... difficult and slow to start Vitis Riparia plants from seed"
Noxious weed is some areas, prohibited in Ohio. May be injurious to nearby trees and shrubs if not controlled.
It doesn't sound like scarifying would be especially helpful, or soaking either. They do need to be stratified, the chill must be moist to be helpful, dry storage in the refrigerator is only storage - the key is the moisture.
Plants for a future database: "Seed - best sown in a cold frame as soon as it is ripe. Six weeks cold stratification improves the germination rate, and so stored seed is best sown in a cold frame as soon as it is obtained. Germination should take place in the first spring, but sometimes takes another 12 months. Prick out the seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle and grow them on in a cold frame for their first winter. Plant out in early summer."