6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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bugbite(z9a FL)

Pacojam,
Currently all my seeds except one variety are germinating. The 11 flats are outside. Temperature varies between 38 and 76 degrees.
What depth are you planting the seeds and what type of seeds?
How dry is your air?

    Bookmark     March 6, 2013 at 10:26PM
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EdGlover

I tried plantin from Landreth below Hollyhock (Indian Spring variety), Foxglover (digitalis), Butterfly weed, Bee Balm. Black Eyed susans

From Burpee I tried agastache and Bee Balm (2 sources), and Lavender.

None of these say plant directly in Ground since some do not transplant well at all. So I avoided these. I kept them waered well (moist), and the hollyhock is only one that came up, but then shriveled and died. I plan to try this again soon. Ill use the styrofoam approach with a cover and new potting soil from Miracle grow this time.
Thanks for everyone kind guidance here. I really appreicate everyones input. I teavel nearly 100% in my job making it hard (due to sheer exhaustion) to get on here to see who posted any feedback. i love this forum

    Bookmark     March 22, 2013 at 11:39PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

I haven't seen it but have read of it, with some down time this evening I browsed a little for albinism in artichoke and it may not be all that uncommon in a given percentage from any lot of seed.

Several online mentions, and from Territorial Seed who I know to be reliable source of information- in their artichoke from seed description:
" Sow heavily and expect 70% germination. Of these seedlings, about 20% will not produce high quality plants. Cull out the small and albino plants."

Here is a link that might be useful: One mention at Territorial Seed

    Bookmark     March 22, 2013 at 10:56PM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

Hi Melissa67 - Desert (sp.) Rose is not a true rose (ie Rosa species) but an Adenium. There is a specialist Adenium Forum here on GW and I am sure someone over there will be able to help you further.

Here is a link that might be useful: Adenium aka Desert Rose

    Bookmark     March 22, 2013 at 10:37AM
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Melissa67

Thanks! I will check it out!

    Bookmark     March 22, 2013 at 11:39AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

If you can't lower the light more (you can always use string or small chain) then raise the seedlings to it. 8" is still way to far away. Sit the trays on boxes or books or something.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 21, 2013 at 10:13AM
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dowlinggram

Young plants do not need fertilizer. Fertilizing seedlings will often set the back. I would say the ones in with your wifes plants probably have the right amount of moisture to grow better. Those fiber pots are useless. They dry out and mold. I tend to sprout seeds in a shallow communal pot and transplant into disposable drinking cups when they are ready. My favorite communal pot is mushroom flats with holes in the bottom.

Your lights should be an no more than an inch above your plants for optimal light exposure. The plants should not touch the bulbs though. Either lower your lights or raise your pots by putting something under them

    Bookmark     March 22, 2013 at 4:56AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Linked a bunch of potting-up discussions you might want to read through for more details.

When? Whenever you are comfortable handling them. There is no set time and you do not have to wait for true leaves they are just a bit easier to work with them. Handle only by the leaves, not the stem. If multiple plants together they need to be separated before the roots get all entangled. Do not leave more than 1 pant in a container.

If going to 16 oz solo cups then don't fill the cup. Too much soil for a young seedling. Instead fill it 1/2 full and transplant. Then as the plant grows you can add more soil around the stems. If using 9 oz cups go 3/4 full. If the plants are very leggy you can transplant deeply to just below the bottom set of leaves and bury all exposed stem. If they are not leggy then just plant them at the same depth they were.

Transplanting FAQ

No need to remove the soil. Some will fall off anyway, if not don't worry about it. Water before transplanting.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: potting up discusssions

2 Likes    Bookmark     March 21, 2013 at 8:45PM
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emcd124(5)

Bah! those seeds will be totally fine. They can all take a frost and come back smiling. The seeds are more resilient than the tender leaves, and in my garden all those things can laugh in the face of frost even after they've germinated. The leaf lettuce in my garden took six or seven hard frosts last spring where it would be frozen solid in the morning, but the warmth of the day would thaw it and it would be delicious and crisp and ready to eat by dinner. I wouldnt worry at all about those seeds.

    Bookmark     March 20, 2013 at 9:06AM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

They may well be fine but as digdirt mentions a lot depends on the conditions in your garden. In a climate like mine ungerminated seeds sitting in cold damp soil generally rot or are eaten by various soil dwelling creatures or foraging birds. But since you can't unsow them I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. My current absolute nemesis is the soil dwelling slug which eats anything attempting to sprout.

    Bookmark     March 21, 2013 at 1:54PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Based on my personal experience with that particular mix, as well as several past discussions here and on other forums, I wouldn't use it for seed starting.

It works ok as a potting mix outside in really large containers for well developed plants but indoors or in small containers with young plants it keeps the soil too wet and that leads to all sorts of problems. Even the MG without moisture control or plain old inexpensive Jiffy Mix from Walmart works better.

So for your transplanting purposes it would depend on what size containers you will be using, how old the plants are, and how long before they can be transplanted to the garden? If you do use it you will have to monitor the soil moisture levels very carefully and only water when absolutely necessary.

What sources for potting mix do you have? Surely by now your big box stores and local nurseries have their mixes available.

Dave

PS: for future info the bags of garden soil say on the label "Not for use in Containers".

    Bookmark     March 21, 2013 at 12:42PM
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leannk92

Thanks for the quick response. I think I already answered my own question, but just wanted someone else's perspective. I was lazy, and didn't want to take the time to drive, thinking I could get something that would work well locally (plus, I did tell the guy why I needed it...). So many lessons learned the hard way this year!

We have a great organic garden center that's a bit of a drive, but after all my efforts, will be worth the time and effort to visit.

I'll hang on to the MG; I plan to have some big pots for my patio this year.

Thanks again!

I just checked the bag, and you're right: the warning is there...in tiny lettering!

    Bookmark     March 21, 2013 at 1:25PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

If you do some reading through this forum and the FAQs here you will find all sorts of pics folks have posted about their light set-ups. I linked several of them below that the search pulls up. And google images will bring up 100's of more pics.

If you only have 1 tray then a 2' fixture may work if it has enough lumens but the 4' fixtures and bulbs are much cheaper than the 2' ones are simply because they are much more common and in higher demand.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: light set-up discussions and pics

    Bookmark     March 20, 2013 at 6:21PM
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dowlinggram

A shop light with reflectors and T8 daylight bulbs is what you need. One that has chains and a plug. Not one that is to be hard wired and has no plug.

The reflectors are important because they train the light down instead of all around the room. T8 bulbs have a full spectrum of light unlike many of the earlier fluorescent bulbs

    Bookmark     March 21, 2013 at 3:39AM
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salerna(4)

Dave and dowlinggram, thanks so very much for your responses.

I did some more research and think you're absolutely right about my overwatering.

I did not know that the soil can be allowed to get dry with transplants. I thought that they needed daily watering for several days for their root systems....This is so helpful!

I will also get a fan---thanks so much for these tips. In the meanwhile, I'm really enjoying this whole process even though my learning curve is quite steep.

Take care and I look forward to learning from you as the season progresses.

Elisabeth

    Bookmark     March 20, 2013 at 5:10PM
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salerna(4)

Dave and dowlinggram, thanks so very much for your responses.

I did some more research and think you're absolutely right about my overwatering.

I did not know that the soil can be allowed to get dry with transplants. I thought that they needed daily watering for several days for their root systems....This is so helpful!

I will also get a fan---thanks so much for these tips. In the meanwhile, I'm really enjoying this whole process even though my learning curve is quite steep.

Take care and I look forward to learning from you as the season progresses.

Elisabeth

    Bookmark     March 20, 2013 at 5:11PM
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freki(5a)

I've started "Alexandria", they are very slow to start & they will stall with insufficient light. Did you chill them?

    Bookmark     March 20, 2013 at 3:43PM
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wolfpup64(8a TX)

I did not chill the initial ones I tried. And they are a few years old, having been kept sealed in an unheated garage. Maybe they've lost some vitality, but I figured they would be cool and dry there.

A while ago I put some of them to chill in the fridge for a few weeks and planted those..they haven't germinated. I also just propped up the container to be a little closer to the light.

This post was edited by wolfpup64 on Wed, Mar 20, 13 at 16:06

    Bookmark     March 20, 2013 at 4:05PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

It has been years, actually decades, since I experimented with this so take this info with a grain or two of salt, ok?

Plain white tissue paper works best. Thin, single layer strips for both top and bottom. Crepe paper takes much longer to dissolve as it has reinforcing fibers in it. Colored tissue would work ok but then you have the dye contamination (not all the dyes are organic based) not to mention the stained finger tips to deal with.

Here are a couple of past discussions about making them that will provide you with more info.

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0402110219445.html

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg1222223019774.html

Hope this helps.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 19, 2013 at 12:30PM
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fumasterchu

I use toilet paper. Roll it out to the length you need and mark off your spacing. Mix up equal parts flour and water and place a dot on the space for the seed. Place the seed and fold the toilet paper over. You will then have about an inch to an inch and a half wide tape. It dries in about 20 minutes.
If you are doing square foot gardening, you can do this with paper towels. They are usually two ply, so just separate the layers. I hope this helps.

Jen

This post was edited by JennySweet on Wed, Mar 20, 13 at 0:15

    Bookmark     March 19, 2013 at 7:14PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Here is the FAQ on this question. It should provide the information you need as to when - only after transplanting which is normally after 1 set of true leaves develop.

As to what? That is your choice. Just make sure it is well diluted. Never use full strength on seedlings.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs - Fertilizing

    Bookmark     March 19, 2013 at 5:07PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree that if you aren't going to supply supplemental lighting, which is really mandatory for growing indoors, then outside will result in much better seedlings. No comparison.

Plus that way you won't have to harden them off.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 19, 2013 at 3:36PM
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sugi_c(9a)

Hmm, glad I asked! Thanks, guys. I just figured inside was warmer ,ore consistently and the windowsill gets some serious sun at angle (of seed cells).That, and it's cleaner....like bug-free.

Okay, I'll keep them outside. :-)

    Bookmark     March 19, 2013 at 4:15PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

As dowlinggram said, only time will tell now. But personally, if they survive then as soon as they are big enough to be transplanted, I would remove them, replace the garden soil with a good potting mix, and replace them.

As you have discovered only soil-less potting mix should be used in containers - for many reasons. So to give them the best chance of survival consider transplanting them.

And let us know exactly what you planted? Some plants, namely herbs and some flowers will do ok in the dirt. Vegetables and most other flowering plants, not.

Be sure to check out the Container gardening forum here for much more relevant information on container gardening.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 19, 2013 at 10:54AM
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susanzone5(z5NY)

And, if you garden in the desert, check out the Arizona forum.

    Bookmark     March 19, 2013 at 3:11PM
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cwatson89

Here's a sample of what they look like but each one is bigger than this

    Bookmark     March 19, 2013 at 11:29AM
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