6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Here is another link that is less geared for the professional grower
Here is a link that might be useful: Lisianthus
Sounds good Mandolls. I have grown them a couple of times and I too am far from an expert. They take a LONG time.
They take awhile to germinate and take forever to get any size. Watching how you water is of utmost importance...DO NOT overwater, very easy to do because of their size.
You might be too late in starting seed this season, I am not sure of your zone. I started mine a few weeks ago and will need the time to get any size on them before they go in the ground in late May.
Good luck!
Old server console racks are perfect for hanging shop lights. I didn't do anything fancy. These are T8 fluorescent shop lights I bought at Home Depot 6 or so years ago for about $8.99 each. I am using Phillips tubes (economy 20-pack). I'm not certain why anyone would spend $80+ on a shop light fixture when the cheapies from the big box stores get the job done.
I got a giant piece of Mylar sheeting when I did the Tough Mudder It was so cold the day of the event that reflective Mylar 'sheets' were all over the course. I used one on the back side of my rack to help contain all the light.
Your setup looks pretty good. As far as the expensive grow lamps are concerned they really are very nice lamps. High output T5s put out lots of lumens. When I bought one I was a bit hesitant due to the price. They are designed with the indoor grower in mind as opposed to generic shop lights that are made for garages or office space.
I have a variety of fixtures T12, T8 and the one T5. I can say with certainty that in my situation the T5HO is by far the best lamp.
Hi and welcome to GardenWeb!
Just wanted to mention that when you have that greenhouse outside, make sure it is well secured to something. I've read post in the past where the wind has blown them over and dumped the plants all over the patio! That plastic cover will catch a lot of wind.
Art
I started my first batch of seeds yesterday: broccoli, cauliflower, artichokes, and salad burnet. It's the first time I've started seed inside in several years here in MD. Not sure about southern MD, but I think here around Baltimore, it's the time to start the seeds that need 6-8 weeks.
No it works fine as long as there were no symptoms of contamination - molds, fungi, etc. in the previous use.
Some advocate dousing it with boiling water before re-use. I just make sure to use seeds of something very different so it will be easy to tell which seeds germinated. Don't want to have to worry if it is Tomato A or Tomato B.
Dave
Here is just one opinion: Leave them. Don't "transplant shock" them twice in such a short period of time. I left my fall-planted winter seedlings (petunias, snaps, and rose seedlings) in trays a long time this winter and just planted them in the ground 2 weeks ago.
Go to the post "when to fertilize". Go straight to the link Art provided. You will see the fertilize requirements for seedlings at different ages. Correct the fertilizer to what is stated in his link. That will control the growth rate a bit while in the trays.
A quick way to get a real close PPM for 1 tablespoon of your water soluble fertilize in one gallon of water is a simple calculation with the number by 3750.
Example: If your fertilizer is 20-10-10 and you want to know the PPM per tablespoon of Nitrogen (20).
DO: 20% x 3750 = 750 ppm per tablespoon per gallon of water.
Calculate the desired PPM from there.
Good Luck,
Bob
This post was edited by bugbite on Sat, Mar 2, 13 at 15:20
I can tell you it is NOT 100's of things but would need to know what seeds you planted - what are the possibilities, the choices - to ID it as this stage. It would appear to be one of any number of flower or tree seeds at this point.
Otherwise you'll have to wait until it is much more developed.
Dave
Digdirt I put the seeds in 3 inch pots and the mix is just nothing special soil - could of been Miracle Grow. I have a trash can that I keep the soil in for future uses. Not using heat and the pots are wrapped up with plastic. Winter sowing? In Texas. The seeds were harvested from my own crop of coneflower seeds from my yard.
I think starting over might be a better option. Just my opinion. Did you have a humidity dome over the flat to help germinate the seeds? Once they break ground is when they go under the lights only an inch or two above the plants and they no longer need the heat mat. What is the electrical cord for in the cell on the right? Also, is there a significance to the carpenters square laying on the flat? Keep us posted on what you decide to do.
You can salvage them by transplanting them DEEPLY into new containers if you wish. You bury all that exposed stem right up to just below the leaves. New roots will develop.
Then set them under the light and lower it so that it is just a 1/2" above the top of the tallest plant.
Otherwise, start over.
Dave
Averages are just that -- averages. When I winter-sow in milk jugs I just throw the seeds in and water. Then they are sealed and put outdoors to freeze/thaw/be covered with snow. I just figure that when seeds self sow, they usually are not covered except by falling leaves and animals digging them in.
My success with winter sowing is excellent. They just plain don't need to be covered since they don't need protection from birds or other varmints. But - when I start plants indoors I cover with a bit of soil just to keep the seeds from drying out before germination.
I plant seeds outside in 18 cell flats; bring flats into garage when I expect a freeze. I may plant up to 4 cycles a year.
I use a personal rule that works for me:
Soak most seeds (except ultra tiny) before planting. Plant in loose soil so roots can penetrate.
Barely cover and keep reasonably moist till germination.
Spacing? Plant far enough apart that I can lift them out of the cell with minimal disruption.
Right or wrong, it works for most of my seeds.
Certainly don't expect anyone else to follow what I do.
This post was edited by bugbite on Sun, Mar 3, 13 at 9:52