6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Hi and welcome to GardenWeb!
Just wanted to mention that when you have that greenhouse outside, make sure it is well secured to something. I've read post in the past where the wind has blown them over and dumped the plants all over the patio! That plastic cover will catch a lot of wind.
Art
I started my first batch of seeds yesterday: broccoli, cauliflower, artichokes, and salad burnet. It's the first time I've started seed inside in several years here in MD. Not sure about southern MD, but I think here around Baltimore, it's the time to start the seeds that need 6-8 weeks.
No it works fine as long as there were no symptoms of contamination - molds, fungi, etc. in the previous use.
Some advocate dousing it with boiling water before re-use. I just make sure to use seeds of something very different so it will be easy to tell which seeds germinated. Don't want to have to worry if it is Tomato A or Tomato B.
Dave
Here is just one opinion: Leave them. Don't "transplant shock" them twice in such a short period of time. I left my fall-planted winter seedlings (petunias, snaps, and rose seedlings) in trays a long time this winter and just planted them in the ground 2 weeks ago.
Go to the post "when to fertilize". Go straight to the link Art provided. You will see the fertilize requirements for seedlings at different ages. Correct the fertilizer to what is stated in his link. That will control the growth rate a bit while in the trays.
A quick way to get a real close PPM for 1 tablespoon of your water soluble fertilize in one gallon of water is a simple calculation with the number by 3750.
Example: If your fertilizer is 20-10-10 and you want to know the PPM per tablespoon of Nitrogen (20).
DO: 20% x 3750 = 750 ppm per tablespoon per gallon of water.
Calculate the desired PPM from there.
Good Luck,
Bob
This post was edited by bugbite on Sat, Mar 2, 13 at 15:20
I can tell you it is NOT 100's of things but would need to know what seeds you planted - what are the possibilities, the choices - to ID it as this stage. It would appear to be one of any number of flower or tree seeds at this point.
Otherwise you'll have to wait until it is much more developed.
Dave
Digdirt I put the seeds in 3 inch pots and the mix is just nothing special soil - could of been Miracle Grow. I have a trash can that I keep the soil in for future uses. Not using heat and the pots are wrapped up with plastic. Winter sowing? In Texas. The seeds were harvested from my own crop of coneflower seeds from my yard.
I think starting over might be a better option. Just my opinion. Did you have a humidity dome over the flat to help germinate the seeds? Once they break ground is when they go under the lights only an inch or two above the plants and they no longer need the heat mat. What is the electrical cord for in the cell on the right? Also, is there a significance to the carpenters square laying on the flat? Keep us posted on what you decide to do.
You can salvage them by transplanting them DEEPLY into new containers if you wish. You bury all that exposed stem right up to just below the leaves. New roots will develop.
Then set them under the light and lower it so that it is just a 1/2" above the top of the tallest plant.
Otherwise, start over.
Dave
My experience tells me that if you want germination in under 10 days from peppers a heat mat is a must. Other veggies - Not.
My pepper seeds (which I save from year to year and some are 10 yrs old) germinate in 4-6 days with bottom heat. That is all I use my heat mats for.
BTW I suggested that a heating pad from a pharmacy was cheaper than a mat from a nursery and I was right but the one I just bought for $17.99 has a automatic shut-off after one hour. We rigged a stone with velcro to fool it but if you are worried about such a thing, look and see if it has that shut-off feature.
It happens now and then with most any variety of seedling. Fairly common in many vegetable seedlings and in larger vs. smaller seeds..
It is apparently tied to conditions at the time of pollination and subsequent seed formation.
It poses no problem for the seedling.
Dave
jduren - dont the bottom of those cups touch the bottom of the tray? And if so, doesnt that defeat the purpose of the wicks?
I have never tried "self watering", so maybe I just dont understand. I like spending an hour or so each day checking and watering my little seedlings.
Thx Dave. I had to take them from under the lights as I had petunias in the same flat. I just stuck them on a tv tray to continue proper light on other things.
The base stems are around 3mil thick. I assume healthy other than the lack of proper lighting....Jack
Here you go, a direct link in case you have difficulty finding that forum.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Winter Sowing forum
1) MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD DRAINAGE 2) WHY NOT ADD PETUNIAS TO THE TOP ALONG WITH THE 4 O-CLOCK...THIS WILL INCREASE THE AREA WITH FLOWERS 3) tHERE ARE MANY COMBINATION THAT WILL DO WELL AT THE BASE...
I did this with some extra large(about 8" diameter) gateposts one year that were starting to rot in the center on top. Had DH drill some drainholes in from the side and planted nasturtiums. They did well and looked quite nice.