6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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judderwocky

Thanks so much!

    Bookmark     March 24, 2011 at 5:23PM
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Selim

You can find some usefully informations this link:
http://www.ehow.com/how_12094796_germinate-leptospermum.html

Good luck...

    Bookmark     February 15, 2013 at 7:32AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

I'm not sure what you mean by low light, high moisture. Cornus Kousa (kousa dogwood) seed needs to be stratified. Best results will come if given a moist chill of approx 35-40F for 90 days before being brought to warmer (approx 70F) for germination. You can achieve that by sowing the seeds fresh and placing the pots outdoors (protected from rodents if necessary), or placing in a tiny zip lock with a tablespoon or two of moist, sterile medium like damp sand or damp vermiculite, dating the bag, placing it in your refrigerator for about three months. Then you can bring the bag out and sow the contents, vermiculite and all, save the space a pot would take that many weeks in the refrigerator.

    Bookmark     February 14, 2013 at 7:42PM
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darobi2459(5)

I am a first timer and I respect that different methods work for different people. I tried half of my daylily seeds in cells (1 per) and the other half in solo cups 20 oz. The solo sup seedlings are twice the size as the cell packs. germination rate was pretty much the same however.

Good discussion!

    Bookmark     February 13, 2013 at 7:58PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Lots of images on How to Start Seeds

YouTube Seed Starting Videos

Dave

    Bookmark     February 14, 2013 at 11:32AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

We are talking about two different situations jurden - seed germination and then growing the plants,

Very few seeds need light for germination but they all need heated soil.

For growing on AFTER germination they need light but not heat.

So using lights to create germinating heat isn't nearly as effective nor as energy efficient. First because it is fluorescent which create minimal heat. Plus it is radiant heat not direct and most dissipates into the air and so wasted. Plus it is inconsistent and cannot be regulated. So for every kw used the degrees of heat achieved from lights is minimal when compared to the direct consistent heat created by using germination heat mats.

Then once the seeds have germinated it is time to remove them from the soil heat, reduce the air temperature if necessary, and provide them with as much light as possible.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 12, 2013 at 9:48PM
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nil13(z21 L.A., CA (Mt. Washington))

I don't like cell trays. I like 2.25 in. individual plug pots for versatility. I order a bunch to fill standard trays and then as cells need swapped out they can be.

    Bookmark     February 12, 2013 at 10:40PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I have a question though can the T12 bulbs be swapped out for the more efficient T8 or T5 bulbs or does it even matter?

As I posted above
Normally T5 or T8 bulbs will not work in T12 fixtures but T12 work well too.

I have tried to adapt T12 fixtures to T8 bulbs several times and while it will work, with some re-wiring, in older T12 fixtures that have built in ballasts, it will not work in the newer fixtures that only have computer chips instead of a ballast.

And that is only with T8s. The T5s will not fit the fixture at all - totally different diameter on the bulb ends and the contact pins cannot engage.

People have used T12 bulbs for decades with no problems but they are gradually being phased out of production because they are much less efficient so more difficult to find.

To easily use T8 or T5 bulbs you'd need to covert all the fixtures to either T8 or T5 fixtures depending on which you chose to use. The fixtures aren't cheap - T8 cheaper than T5) so if you get the stand I would stock up on T12 bulbs now while cheap and available and plan to use it as is until the fixtures themselves shoot craps and then replace the fixtures as needed.

Dave.

    Bookmark     February 12, 2013 at 2:43PM
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SneakyP86(7B)

Thanks Dave I reread your first post as I was scrolling down and saw where you said that T8 won't work in a T12 fixture. I wasn't planning on changing anything for now. Supposedly the bulbs and ballasts have been hardly used so I figured I had a couple years before I did anything. I read that bulbs in the 6500K range were the best for plants and seeds alike is that true? I really only need it for getting things started as I will be putting them in the garden as soon as possible. Will the 6500K bulbs be good for that use or will something else work better for what I am planning on? My last average frost date is 4/12 which makes it about 2 weeks later that I will transplant. I was planning for about a week for hardening off before planting in the ground. If I start the seeds this weekend that would be about 8 weeks under lights is that about right? I was planning on about 12 hrs. a day using the lights with the T12 bulbs is that enough or not? How much water should I plan on in the beginning?

    Bookmark     February 12, 2013 at 3:55PM
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art33(6)

Glad to be of help Kevin. I had to edit my first post because I found out that Onalee is a she not a he :-)

This post was edited by art33 on Fri, Feb 8, 13 at 19:01

    Bookmark     February 8, 2013 at 6:56PM
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LullabyF360

I've never heard of propagating a Datura from cuttings. I have always been told it was seeds, but I could have always been told wrong. I haven't looked for a proof positive answer, because, though I see quite a few of these absolutely beautiful plants growing in people's yards, I do not know them, therefore, I just can't walked up to them & start asking questions. I purchased seeds online of two trumpet plants. I tried sowing them last year without any luck. This year was off too a bad start as well. Unlike the first try, these did not even germinate. The seeds rotted in the soil. Damping off killed my first set. I am currently in my third attempt. It has been about two weeks since they have sprouted, & things seem to be looking brighter.

    Bookmark     February 12, 2013 at 9:58AM
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gjcore(zone 5 Aurora Co)

Potting up is one of my least favorite things to do but it is sometimes the best thing to do in my opinion. If you start in too large of a container then seedlings may grow slowly and have a tendency towards root rot. If you leave them too long in small containers then keeping them in those containers can lead to a challenge keeping them from drying out. Tapping them out of their containers and looking to see how root bound they are getting can be a decent baseline for potting up.

    Bookmark     February 11, 2013 at 9:33PM
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mandolls(4)

Yep...............you are going to quickly realize that there are many different ways to go about getting your garden started. I am the one who suggested the potting up in the different size plastic cups - it works well for me, but this time of year I like to fuss with my seedlings. My experience (little though it may be) is that leaving them in containers that are to small for them is much worse than the slight trauma of re-potting. I tend to start things to early, and need to move them to larger containers, but I have a short growing season. I am harvesting pretty much everything a good two weeks before my neighbor who buys his transplants in 6 packs or direct seeds.

    Bookmark     February 12, 2013 at 8:04AM
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kawaiineko_gardener(5a)

When the broccoli and cauliflower is repotted from the 3 oz. cup to the 9-12 oz. cup how many sets of true leaves should it have?

How many sets of true leaves should the pepper, tomato and eggplant seedlings have when repotted from the 3 oz. cup to the 9 oz. cup? When repotted from the 9 oz. cup to the 16 oz. cup how many sets of true leaves should the tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant have?

I plan to do asian greens (asian cabbage mostly) and swiss chard as seedling transplants too. I know they don't like having their roots disturbed when transplanting and are more finicky with transplanting in general. I will use cow pots for them, but since they don't like to be transplanted, they won't be repotted while being grown as transplants indoors. So what size cow pot should I use for them? They will be about 2-4 weeks old when transplanted outdoors.

    Bookmark     February 10, 2013 at 4:47PM
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susanzone5(z5NY)

Swiss chard grows well direct seeded.

To test when to transplant container seedlings, gently knock plant up and out. If roots take up all of soil, then transplant. If you transplant too soon, the plant spends time growing roots to fill container.

If plant needs constant watering, transplant to bigger container. Or just time growth to plant directly outdoors from the first container and avoid all that transplanting work.

After you've been at it for a few years, you will learn a lot from your notes. Keep a pad handy with notes like "start __ later" or "use bigger container for ___."

    Bookmark     February 11, 2013 at 4:27PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

The cotyledons will fall off but the plant itself will continue to live assuming there are some nutrients in the soil or that you feed it as needed.

If you never feed it then yes, eventually the plant will die.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 11, 2013 at 10:20AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

The cotyledons will fall off but the plant itself will continue to live assuming there are some nutrients in the soil or that you feed it as needed.

If you never feed it then yes, eventually the plant will die.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 11, 2013 at 10:21AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

can they really take a few freezes?

Yes, with no problems. Even more so it you mulch them. As the soil warms they will push right up through the mulch unless you use something that mats down heavily. In that case lightly pull it back from the plants as the weather warms.

In your location you should be able to transplant them to the garden mid-March (even earlier if you warm your soil) so you started them too early and will need to baby them a bit to carry them over.

Normally they are started in time to just transplant them once from germination container to garden. Try to avoid transplanting them more than once so using the 4" pots (plant them 1" deep) 'should' work for the Cabernet.

When it comes time to go to the garden, trim the tops to about 3" and carefully transplant the whole 4" soil block intact so that the top of the block sits even with or just below the surface of the garden soil.

Now White Lisbon is a scallion, a bunching onion. They can be grown in clusters and I wouldn't bother transplanting them to the 4" pots. They will likely be ready to use (40-60 day onion) before you could transplant to the garden. Direct seed more of them in mid-April.

Hope this helps.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 10, 2013 at 10:50AM
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mandolls(4)

Thanks Dave - I think that helps.

I havent stated moving the white lisbon yet, so if and when I do (those 3oz cups are really small), I'll just move them into deeper 9 oz cups, but not separate them and plan on eating them with the lettuce and arugula that I am growing inside.

The 4" pots that I am using are cow pots (which I know you are not a fan of) so I wont have to disturb them at all when I plant them out. If at that time the bulb of the onion isnt showing above the soil, should I pull it back a bit?

Mid March is way earlier that I have ever tried to move anything out, but if the snow is gone I'll give it a try. I have some low hoops that I made to fit over a couple of the beds, so I can put those over them to try to get the soil warmed up earlier. Right now due to drifts, one end of the 14" deep beds isnt even showing above the snow.

    Bookmark     February 10, 2013 at 1:52PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Most any 'seed starting supplies' supplier carries them. Several source recommendations included in this discussion from further down the page. Price will all depend on how many you order - bulk orders being the cheapest of course.

Just a few:

http://www.growerssupply.com/farm/supplies/cat1a;gs_seed_starting.html

http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/category/seed-starting

http://www.gardenharvestsupply.com/ProductCart/pc/-c672.htm

http://www.novoselenterprises.com/

http://www.dirtworks.net/Seed-Trays.html

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: where to buy trays etc.

    Bookmark     February 9, 2013 at 1:14PM
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jduren(5 MO.)

thx...Looking at the sources for best value....Jack

    Bookmark     February 10, 2013 at 11:39AM
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dowlinggram

I sure wouldn't use it. You have no way of controling the heat you get. My heat mat feels barely warm when I put my hand on top of it. Too much heat and you'll kill the seeds not to mention start a fire. Before I got my heat mat I didn't use anything and I still don't for many seeds. Only those that require bottom heat for better germination. Even without the mat I had pretty good germination with those seeds.

If you really want a heat source try a regular light bulb. Rig some kind of open structure like a frame made with scrap lumber with a cookie sheet on top and put the light bulb under it. The heat from the bulb will transfer to the cookie sheet. You only want to keep the bottom of your pots warm not hot

    Bookmark     February 9, 2013 at 9:20AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

If you have read through the previous discussions here about using water bed heaters then you know that it is the attached thermometer probe, the enclosure around the seed starting space, and the elevated spacing created between the pad heater and the bottom of the trays/pots that lets it work.

Not that I am advocating using one, there are many alternatives. But it can work and work safely with an enclosure, a 1-2" elevated platform over the pad, and a container of wet soil sitting on the platform with the thermometer buried in it to trigger the mat off and on. You are heating the air in the enclosure so only indirectly heating the flats of seeds.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 9, 2013 at 11:07AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Couple of different issues - First, using the Jiffy pots to begin with. Many discussions here about all the problems with using them.

Second, watering. Watering from the bottom, NOT the top, is the preferred approach no matter what container used. That is why you need some sort of water-holding container for them to sit in. Any flat pan, baking dish, those disposable aluminum cake pans, etc. will work.

However the containers should never be left sitting in water. That causes the seeds and roots to rot.

Hope this helps.

dave

    Bookmark     February 8, 2013 at 12:28PM
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SneakyP86(7B)

I was doing some looking around on amazon and saw this heat mat and was wondering what some of you think of it.I like the idea of being able to get it in a length and width that I choose instead of having to get several different ones. Do you think that it will have adequate power to cover say a 6' length?

Here is a link that might be useful: heat mat

    Bookmark     February 7, 2013 at 3:49PM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Not enough specs are given to make a guess. No wattages mentioned for any of the sizes. No thermostat control, only claiming to raise the temperature over some unknown temperature. I would not risk my money for as little as is known. It would have been better to start your own thread, as this has no relation to the original post. Al

    Bookmark     February 7, 2013 at 7:36PM
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Millie5

Is the clay coating (or inert materials) generally ok to be considered "organic". What coating would not meet this requirement (to be organic.)

    Bookmark     February 7, 2013 at 2:28PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Is the clay coating (or inert materials) generally ok to be considered "organic". What coating would not meet this requirement (to be organic.)

If you are a certified organic grower - the only instance where it would matter - then you'd have to contact your local certification agent to double check. But in most states yes, pelleted seed are approved for organic certification.

While there are some fungicide-treated/coated seeds that are not approved for certified organic growers to use, that is quite different from pelleted seeds. I can't think of any pelletized seed coating that wouldn't be considered "organic". The issue is not the coating but if your particular state approves their use for certified growers.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 7, 2013 at 3:58PM
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