6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

I sure wouldn't use it. You have no way of controling the heat you get. My heat mat feels barely warm when I put my hand on top of it. Too much heat and you'll kill the seeds not to mention start a fire. Before I got my heat mat I didn't use anything and I still don't for many seeds. Only those that require bottom heat for better germination. Even without the mat I had pretty good germination with those seeds.

If you really want a heat source try a regular light bulb. Rig some kind of open structure like a frame made with scrap lumber with a cookie sheet on top and put the light bulb under it. The heat from the bulb will transfer to the cookie sheet. You only want to keep the bottom of your pots warm not hot

If you have read through the previous discussions here about using water bed heaters then you know that it is the attached thermometer probe, the enclosure around the seed starting space, and the elevated spacing created between the pad heater and the bottom of the trays/pots that lets it work.

Not that I am advocating using one, there are many alternatives. But it can work and work safely with an enclosure, a 1-2" elevated platform over the pad, and a container of wet soil sitting on the platform with the thermometer buried in it to trigger the mat off and on. You are heating the air in the enclosure so only indirectly heating the flats of seeds.

Dave

I was doing some looking around on amazon and saw this heat mat and was wondering what some of you think of it.I like the idea of being able to get it in a length and width that I choose instead of having to get several different ones. Do you think that it will have adequate power to cover say a 6' length?

Here is a link that might be useful: heat mat

Not enough specs are given to make a guess. No wattages mentioned for any of the sizes. No thermostat control, only claiming to raise the temperature over some unknown temperature. I would not risk my money for as little as is known. It would have been better to start your own thread, as this has no relation to the original post. Al

Is the clay coating (or inert materials) generally ok to be considered "organic". What coating would not meet this requirement (to be organic.)

Is the clay coating (or inert materials) generally ok to be considered "organic". What coating would not meet this requirement (to be organic.)

If you are a certified organic grower - the only instance where it would matter - then you'd have to contact your local certification agent to double check. But in most states yes, pelleted seed are approved for organic certification.

While there are some fungicide-treated/coated seeds that are not approved for certified organic growers to use, that is quite different from pelleted seeds. I can't think of any pelletized seed coating that wouldn't be considered "organic". The issue is not the coating but if your particular state approves their use for certified growers.

Dave

Agree with Al above that 57 is a little low especially as an average meaning it will spend lots of time lower than 57. A consistent air temp of 60-65 is considered the ideal post germination.

But the light provided is far more important at the seedling stage so the plants will tolerate lower air temps in order to get extra light.

So focus on the best way to provide them with lots of light once they germinate. EX: If you set up your shelves in the basement and hang several lights on them and then enclose the shelf set-up in a plastic tent of some sort - create a small enclosed area of sorts - the trapped heat from the lights (even fluorescent) will keep the area inside the tent much warmer than the rest of the basement. Include a thermometer within the tent so you can monitor the temps inside. You'll find you'll have to vent the tent from time to time as it may get TOO warm.

Dave

Thanks, I was thinking that 57 would be too cold. I will fit the shelf into my kitchen, it's probably the easiest way, it may be an inconvenience for a couple months, but I can live with it.

Hi everyone,I have been starting plants from seed for 45+ years.If there is an inexpensive way to do something I do it.Dave touched on something important. Use small found containers that food comes in.I can start my main crop of tomatoes in a short cottage cheese container.Cream cheese or dip containers are great for pelleted petunias.I put my regular growing on soil in & cover with a thin layer of the starter.Dampen well with turkey baster & sow seeds like tomatoes carefully with dampened toothpick.Same for pellets.Seedlings do not languish with this method like they do in a soiless mix. This method is covered in Peter Thompson's book CREATIVE PROPAGATION.I have done this before I got his book.If one isn't careful you can spend more on supplies than it would cost to buy the plants.
As has been pointed out,here,there are many ways to do all this.Many different mediums,etc. I use a lot of Miracle Grow because I laid in a supply on sale.
Good luck
rose AKA Doris zone 5

Thank you everyone for the awesome comments! I'll try them all out. I've been using water and milk jugs that I saved for winter sowing but never got cold enough here. All of my seeds are outside and doing great so far,almost time to tranplant my tomatoes into bigger pots. I've only had to bring them in once. Good luck this season and may you all have bountiful gardens this year!

Dave certainly gave good information, even guessing they may be in containers. Container mixes should be considered without nutrients unless specified. Most plants use nutrients in a ratio of 3-1-2, and if fed excessive amounts of phosphorus in an attempt to force blooming it is not used by the plant and is a waste. A soil test of my garden soil indicated both P and K at four times the recommended amount. When I questioned the lab, I was told such was not at all unusual for my area. For most plants to bloom well, especially poppies, the amount of sun they receive is more important than the amount of fertilizer. Al

Hello,

Thanks for the information. I had no idea that soils generally have more than the needed P and K. To be sure, I have being very conservative with fertilizer and thinking that a little bit is better than a lot. Thanks!

Z

I just now read that you should lightly put dry mix in cups and then water it

That only applies to certain types of mixes - those that contain a wetting agent - and even then you d not have to do it that way. Most mixes do not contain wetting agents so dry mix in containers is NOT generally recommended. You have to read the ingredients in your mix to see if it lists wetting agents.

And like Lynn said, no you do not pack it tight. Grab a handful of the wet mix and wring it out in your fist. Then put it in the container and just use your fingers to lightly level it out in the container.

Dave

I make an effort to keep all my mixes in current use, in a damp, not wet, state. It is a real pain to start with a dry mix when you are ready to seed. Al

So many variables in the growing conditions that it's really hard to say how long from seed to bloom.

Mimbus

Clarkia is normally direct sown after last frost. Damp-off is so common with it that growing it inside is impossible IME and I have tried it several times. Sow on the surface and do not cover; needs light.

Same with Wishbone. Direct seed, uncovered. It "can" be done inside but the germination rate isn't as good IME. Just lightly press it into the soil surface and start it 4-6 weeks before plant out.

If you have any experience with Winter Sowing techniques they work well for both Wishbone and Clarkia.

Hope this helps.

Dave

Thanks -Looks like I should try starting the Mimulus soon. I did do a little more internet searching on these this morning, but sowing to bloom time is hard to find. I suppose that there are many variables, but in my short WI growing season, I didnt want to wait and sow in May if it means I wont get blooms before frost in October.

My winter sowing experience hasnt been great, partially due to our late springs.

I am trying something new with a few different seed types right now. They are sown and in the garage frozen solid (-5 for the high yesterday) but I plan on bringing them inside in a couple of weeks and placing them on the cold concrete floor to finish germinating, then will put them under lights when they sprout. If they are successful I may try some of the clarkia and wishbone that way and save the rest for direct sowing.

Thanks again.

My sedums are enormously popular with insect pollinators of all kinds. But, in my experience, Agastache is phenomenal at attracting insect pollinators as well as birds, after the seeds have set. I call my Agastache " beesicles". They'll be covered with honeybees when in bloom.

So the answer here is to grow native plants to your area. Most places don't label if things are bee friendly but do label native plants. Native plants are something that you might come across on a hike through the wilderness in your area.

And when it comes to hybrids rest assured pollinators will go to them as well. The difference is that native plants typically are plants you can find right in the wild. What makes them successful as plants is that they are attractive to pollinators, because without pollinators the plants wouldn't reproduce.

Now most hybrids, and really anything that has been bred by humans, we've taken pollinators out of the equation because we breed them and pollinate them ourselves to get seed. We also select plants to continue breeding based on appearance or disease resistance and rarely, if ever, based on if pollinators go to them.

If you are worried about your beehives look up your local apiarists and ask them what they plant. I know a handful of people that raise bees they really don't do anything in terms of plants because the bees travel far and wide, they'll find what they are looking for without your help. That being said there are wildflower mixes that are for bees. I also know that the beekeepers I know have 50lb bags of sugar to mix with water and feed the bees.