6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Oh if you are already stratifying them - I thought you hadn't started them yet - then there really isn't anything you can do but to let them be and hope for the best. Or you can go ahead and plant them indoors, in pots, under supplemental lights to keep them from getting leggy, and plan to transplant them up to larger containers a couple of times until they can safely go outside.

Dave

Alright! Thanks for the advice. Thankfully I have a lot of room and pots, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem.

Part of it is the difference between an official "frost" (low temp of 32 at a reporting station) and ground frost.

Here where I am now, the numbers match rather well, being that I am on highish ground not far from the airport where our temps are recorded. Typically, as long as the official temp is over 32, I rarely lose any plants.

However, when I lived in Akron, OH - I ROUTINELY had killing ground frost that would wipe out bean plants, etc in mid to late May when the "official" low was 37 or 38 degrees. It's not that Akron is different per se in that regard (other than colder overall), just that there, I lived in a valley where cold air collected, so I got later spring and earlier fall frosts.

Which is why the "Memorial Day" adage existed there - most old timers never planted annuals until Memorial Day - although the average LFD at Akron-Canton airport is Apr. 29, ground frosts into mid-May are typical.

Great info! Thank you so much. Now I get it.

I am looking for seeds or cuttings from a red butterfly bush. Can you taking cuttings or and seeds off the butterfly bush in the winter thanks for all your help

Cuttings are done in the early fall right after the bush goes dormant. Depending on where you live - you didn't indicate your zone - and the recent weather it is probably too late for cuttings. IF there still happens to be seeds and IF they haven't frozen then you 'might' be able to get them to germinate. Otherwise you will need to buy nursery stock.

Dave

You did the right thing squeezing the tray. But not on pulling the baby plant. You need to get under it and ease it out - a table fork, pencil or any other small scoop like thing will help. (I'm assuming you have all your seedlings in one tray?) I use modules and then you can put your hand over the soil with the plant between your fingers and invert. As other have said, it doesn't matter too much if some of the mix falls off the roots.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pricking out

Pricking tool can equal a blind slat, sure. They also sell tools specific for the task but I have seen folks use the handle of a dinnerware teaspoon, a wood chopstick, the blade of an old table knife/butterknife, a piece of a wood shim, etc. etc. anything that fits in the space.

And as Flora said do NOT pull on the seedling, especially the stem. Leaves will be replaced but damage the stem and the plant will never recover.

As to wetness - seedlings always need to be well watered before transplanting. It helps prevent transplant shock. So if your mix, even when wet, is falling apart then it wasn't firmly enough packed to begin with.

You still didn't tell us what brand mix you are using. That info would help.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: U-Tube videos on pricking seedlings

just a matter of economising on the electricity. Am I right digdirt?

Basically yes, that and convenience based on set-up used. Usually all germination is done is some sort of confined area/container, enclosed so that soil temps can be maintained. An insulated 'hot box' propagator full of germination trays is common in commercial greenhouses - kind of like a big insulated cold frame full of heat cables.

It's heated to germination temps so that the entire enclosure (GH, basement, room, whatever) doesn't have to be heated. But it has no space for lights of any kind and the natural light even in the GH at this time of year isn't sufficient. So once germination begins the trays are moved to the lighted areas where the cooler temps benefit slow growth.

The exception of course is those few flowers and things that require both heat AND light for germination. They get a special set-up.

So depending on the set-up used for propagation, if it is convenient to have lights there as well, great. If not then the containers need to be moved to the light ASAP.

Dave

Thanks for that, digdirt. I have a small heated propagator which I use in my glass porch/greenhouse. Light setups in domestic situations are very unusual here.

The FAQ here explains all about using just plain 4' shop lights with standard T8 bulbs bought at Walmart or Home Depot etc. That is all most use and the least expensive way to go. And if you search 'light set-up' here and especially over on the Growing Under Lights forum (linked directly from this forum's page) there are all kinds of pictures people have posted showing their home-made lighting set ups.

Most any of the gardening supply or greenhouse supply online sites offer all sorts of lighting set ups.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Light set up discussions

I bought my grow light setup from Park Seed catalog. It's two levels, 8 trays, and stands on its own. I had to add two more shop lights to it (one on each level isn't enough light), which was simple to do with a drill and some chain you can get by the foot at Lowes.

The setup has 4 40" fluorescent shop light fixtures, two on each level. Each fixture has a regular fluorescent tube and a full spectrum light tube. Grow-light tubes are expensive, and the full spectrum works fine. Get them at Lowes also.

I've used this setup for over 25 years and have replaced bulbs rarely. I can raise and lower the lights with the adjustible chains. It fits in the corner of a room. Now that I'm older and don't want to kneel down all the time, I have propped up the whole thing on four 5-gallon buckets.

Hope this helps!

jduren, I am envisaging that maybe you intended to place your pots or trays inside the aquarium rather than fill it with mix and sow directly into it? But as digdirt says, it is going to be a finicky job converting that into a seed starting place. All you need is a container ( as simple as a margarine tub), some seed mix, a plastic dome or even, as he suggested, plastic film or a plastic bag and some bottom heat. Personally, I don't even think you need lights if you have a sunny window. I have none and they are rarely used by amateurs in the UK.

Read the info I linked to on starting Tacca seeds.

As with many activities, there are plenty of people trying to sell you equipment which you really don't need. Keep it simple. It's not the equipment which will make your seeds grow but your skill in creating the conditions they need.

Digdirt always offers very full and informative answers and is trying to help.

Here is a link that might be useful: Another thread on Tacca

I'm not discrediting Digdirt But it was a question and if I already knew the answer I wouldn't have asked it. Sorry to get so defensive. I spent too many years on woodworking forums with amateurs.

The Tacca seeds may or may not require 9 months or may not grow at all. I'm challenged by the fact that they are difficult to germinate and figured thats for me.

I have a finished basement where I thought using the aquarium could be used and undisturbed by anybody.

Everything for me on this will be trial and error. I've read many articles on the Tacca seed germination. Setup, correct media as well whom to order from is confusing.