6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
The FAQ here explains all about using just plain 4' shop lights with standard T8 bulbs bought at Walmart or Home Depot etc. That is all most use and the least expensive way to go. And if you search 'light set-up' here and especially over on the Growing Under Lights forum (linked directly from this forum's page) there are all kinds of pictures people have posted showing their home-made lighting set ups.
Most any of the gardening supply or greenhouse supply online sites offer all sorts of lighting set ups.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Light set up discussions
I bought my grow light setup from Park Seed catalog. It's two levels, 8 trays, and stands on its own. I had to add two more shop lights to it (one on each level isn't enough light), which was simple to do with a drill and some chain you can get by the foot at Lowes.
The setup has 4 40" fluorescent shop light fixtures, two on each level. Each fixture has a regular fluorescent tube and a full spectrum light tube. Grow-light tubes are expensive, and the full spectrum works fine. Get them at Lowes also.
I've used this setup for over 25 years and have replaced bulbs rarely. I can raise and lower the lights with the adjustible chains. It fits in the corner of a room. Now that I'm older and don't want to kneel down all the time, I have propped up the whole thing on four 5-gallon buckets.
Hope this helps!
Pfaf.org...
" sow spring in a pot emmersed to half its depth in water. Germination should take place within a couple of weeks. Prick out seedlings into individual pots whilst they are still small and increase the depth of water gradually until they are submerged. Plant out into water in the summer. Cuttings can be taken at any time in the growing season"
If doing this indoors, you may want to change the water in the holding container from time to time. And provide a fan periodically for air movement...but that's thinking out loud, I haven't grown watercress.
jduren, I am envisaging that maybe you intended to place your pots or trays inside the aquarium rather than fill it with mix and sow directly into it? But as digdirt says, it is going to be a finicky job converting that into a seed starting place. All you need is a container ( as simple as a margarine tub), some seed mix, a plastic dome or even, as he suggested, plastic film or a plastic bag and some bottom heat. Personally, I don't even think you need lights if you have a sunny window. I have none and they are rarely used by amateurs in the UK.
Read the info I linked to on starting Tacca seeds.
As with many activities, there are plenty of people trying to sell you equipment which you really don't need. Keep it simple. It's not the equipment which will make your seeds grow but your skill in creating the conditions they need.
Digdirt always offers very full and informative answers and is trying to help.
Here is a link that might be useful: Another thread on Tacca
I'm not discrediting Digdirt But it was a question and if I already knew the answer I wouldn't have asked it. Sorry to get so defensive. I spent too many years on woodworking forums with amateurs.
The Tacca seeds may or may not require 9 months or may not grow at all. I'm challenged by the fact that they are difficult to germinate and figured thats for me.
I have a finished basement where I thought using the aquarium could be used and undisturbed by anybody.
Everything for me on this will be trial and error. I've read many articles on the Tacca seed germination. Setup, correct media as well whom to order from is confusing.
Thanks Dave -
Heat mats removed after germination. Got that part. And I'll take care to use taller (7") humidity domes which are ventilated right after germination.
I would remove the domes as well, however, I know from experience seedlings of this plant variety like high humidity, generally for the first year. Many growers float the seeds to germinate them, then transplant to their favorite medium. I lose too many in the transplanting.
My real concern was whether grow lights are used with heat mats and humidity domes at the same time (until germination) and if there is a danger of the grow lights melting the plastic domes. I'm guesing not at this point - maybe I'm being a little too cautious.
Thanks again
Mike
Using the lights with the domes and mats is only necessary when the seed variety requires light to germinate. A few flowers do but none of the average vegetables require light for germination. Otherwise the lights aren't on until after germination.
Some use the lights as an additional source of heat if their area is especially cool but when used that way they don't need to be all that close.
Dave
A vent fan on a thermostat would level out your temperature swings reasonably, but would take a bite out of your wallet. Once your seeds have germinated, 45 degrees probably wouldn't be a problem. An old-fashioned hot frame heated by manure certainly doesn't keep the air much warmer in the late winter/early spring. Bringing plant indoors at night would solve the problem, but you know that already.
Bottom heat on once seeds have germinated causes all sorts of potential problems so isn't ever recommended. 45 degrees is fine especially if the air is kept circulating. The bigger problem is your 90 degrees inside during the day. Ideally that needs to be kept below 70.
There are a couple of other discussions about this issue a bit further down the page if you want to read through them as well.
Dave
Well yes! I am figuring on adding a mixture of Miracle grow about 1/2 strength. But was waiting on the true leaves. These are only about 1" tall. Is it to soon to add?
Also this was an experiment to see if I could germinate as 3-4 others have tried and failed.They are about 22 days old now. As soon as they sprouted I put under my lights. Figured Id play with thee till time to start the others. Trying to get a nice bush plant and not the tall stringy ones I had. But think i had the lights to high then
But included the pic. Less then 50 % started.
My advice is on where to get cheap seeds. Have you ever send for free seeds at The Garden Hoard website? You can get 6 packs of seeds for a two stamped envelope. I am where you are physically and financially. I've gotten some nice seeds off of the seed exchange and the round robin exchange.
Heat is needed only for germination and not recommended for growing on. You'll find several discussions here about this vital point.
Standard recommendation is once the seeds germinate they should be removed from the heat and provided with cooler growing temps to avoid cooking the young roots (among other things). Any covers should also be removed at the same time.
Heated soil not only risks the roots but encourages leggy growth and soil fungus problems. 45-65 or 70 is considered the ideal growing range. Cooler requires added heat, warmer requires active cooling.
Dave
What kind of problems have you had with watering from below? That is the ideal method for young seedlings and usually quite easy to do. Perhaps as Susan mentioned you are using a poor quality soil-less potting mix?
Dave
Any time now. I started the short day varieties 2 weeks back and I'll start seeding the intermediate day varieties in the greenhouse next week. But then I will also be transplanting outside much earlier than you plan to - early to mid-February as soon as the ground is dry enough to work. At my latitude I need as many days of 12+ hours of sunlight as possible for big bulbs.
Dave
First rule is don't put the cart in front of the horse. :) First learn the "how-to" of growing from seed, the methods, the equipment, and the steps required. That takes time and practice.
Then pick 2-3 easy-to-grow items and practice with them. Once you are successful with them and have fine tuned your methods and equipment then you can expand your list of seeds to try.
That way you avoid getting discouraged and giving up on the process.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs
My grandmother started me at about age 4 by putting some soil in a fruit jar and sticking some beans and corn down between the soil and the glass so that I could see what was happening. She pointed out the difference to me between dicotyledons and monocotyledons -- she never learned to write her name so I rather doubt, however, that she called them monocots and dicots -- but, you see, the educational seed was planted too.
Given all the negative issues associated with peat pots why use them at all? They don't contribute anything to germination rates or times and you have to tear them off before transplanting anyway so nothing is gained.
Dave
Most of my seedlings get transplanted up a couple of times. Usually seeded in small shallow trays, they get transplanted to little 4oz plastic cups (bathroom size) then many of them move up to 9, 12 or 16 oz cups as they need it.
I stopped using peat pots, but last year tried some of the Cow manure pots (4") for some things that do not like being transplanted. They worked very well, dissolving within a matter of days when planted outside. I dipped them in a bucket of water before planting them in the ground to make sure they were saturated, and tore off any of the top edge that was above ground. I had one of my cucumbers die quickly, and when I went to replace it I couldnt find any remains of the pot.