6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Thanks Dave -
Heat mats removed after germination. Got that part. And I'll take care to use taller (7") humidity domes which are ventilated right after germination.
I would remove the domes as well, however, I know from experience seedlings of this plant variety like high humidity, generally for the first year. Many growers float the seeds to germinate them, then transplant to their favorite medium. I lose too many in the transplanting.
My real concern was whether grow lights are used with heat mats and humidity domes at the same time (until germination) and if there is a danger of the grow lights melting the plastic domes. I'm guesing not at this point - maybe I'm being a little too cautious.
Thanks again
Mike
Using the lights with the domes and mats is only necessary when the seed variety requires light to germinate. A few flowers do but none of the average vegetables require light for germination. Otherwise the lights aren't on until after germination.
Some use the lights as an additional source of heat if their area is especially cool but when used that way they don't need to be all that close.
Dave
A vent fan on a thermostat would level out your temperature swings reasonably, but would take a bite out of your wallet. Once your seeds have germinated, 45 degrees probably wouldn't be a problem. An old-fashioned hot frame heated by manure certainly doesn't keep the air much warmer in the late winter/early spring. Bringing plant indoors at night would solve the problem, but you know that already.
Bottom heat on once seeds have germinated causes all sorts of potential problems so isn't ever recommended. 45 degrees is fine especially if the air is kept circulating. The bigger problem is your 90 degrees inside during the day. Ideally that needs to be kept below 70.
There are a couple of other discussions about this issue a bit further down the page if you want to read through them as well.
Dave
Well yes! I am figuring on adding a mixture of Miracle grow about 1/2 strength. But was waiting on the true leaves. These are only about 1" tall. Is it to soon to add?
Also this was an experiment to see if I could germinate as 3-4 others have tried and failed.They are about 22 days old now. As soon as they sprouted I put under my lights. Figured Id play with thee till time to start the others. Trying to get a nice bush plant and not the tall stringy ones I had. But think i had the lights to high then
But included the pic. Less then 50 % started.
My advice is on where to get cheap seeds. Have you ever send for free seeds at The Garden Hoard website? You can get 6 packs of seeds for a two stamped envelope. I am where you are physically and financially. I've gotten some nice seeds off of the seed exchange and the round robin exchange.
Heat is needed only for germination and not recommended for growing on. You'll find several discussions here about this vital point.
Standard recommendation is once the seeds germinate they should be removed from the heat and provided with cooler growing temps to avoid cooking the young roots (among other things). Any covers should also be removed at the same time.
Heated soil not only risks the roots but encourages leggy growth and soil fungus problems. 45-65 or 70 is considered the ideal growing range. Cooler requires added heat, warmer requires active cooling.
Dave
What kind of problems have you had with watering from below? That is the ideal method for young seedlings and usually quite easy to do. Perhaps as Susan mentioned you are using a poor quality soil-less potting mix?
Dave
Any time now. I started the short day varieties 2 weeks back and I'll start seeding the intermediate day varieties in the greenhouse next week. But then I will also be transplanting outside much earlier than you plan to - early to mid-February as soon as the ground is dry enough to work. At my latitude I need as many days of 12+ hours of sunlight as possible for big bulbs.
Dave
First rule is don't put the cart in front of the horse. :) First learn the "how-to" of growing from seed, the methods, the equipment, and the steps required. That takes time and practice.
Then pick 2-3 easy-to-grow items and practice with them. Once you are successful with them and have fine tuned your methods and equipment then you can expand your list of seeds to try.
That way you avoid getting discouraged and giving up on the process.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs
My grandmother started me at about age 4 by putting some soil in a fruit jar and sticking some beans and corn down between the soil and the glass so that I could see what was happening. She pointed out the difference to me between dicotyledons and monocotyledons -- she never learned to write her name so I rather doubt, however, that she called them monocots and dicots -- but, you see, the educational seed was planted too.
The folded paper design I posted earlier, I use only for temporary storage or for mailing seeds. If you are having trouble folding it, it is usually because you do not turn it over as directed in picture #3. For long time storage I use the plastic air tight containers used for diabetic test strip storage. They are a little smaller than the old 35MM film shipping cases. Dr. Norman Deno in his many years of seed experimenting found very little difference in life expectancy between seed at a constant room temperature and that at refrigerator temperature for most seed. Al
Did you also buy the thermostat control for the heat pad? It is difficult to control without the separate thermostat.
Otherwise it can help to create a small space between the mat and the bottom of the trays. EX: assuming the seed trays are the standard 1020 trays small wood shims or scrap 1/2" plastic strips work well as spacers placed on the mat. Think outside the box to try to create a 1/2-3/4" space.
If the growing medium was well wetted before filling the trays then a fine-hole sprinkling can of some sort works well to maintain the moisture level - misting really isn't enough.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Hi, Dave:
Thanks for responding. I don't have a thermostat, but I've read elsewhere that it's a really good idea to utilise one for controlling the temperature, as you say. I am looking into it.
As far as I can tell, the seed tray is not actually touching the bottom of outer tray (and so there is some small space between the heat mat the trays). I like your idea of raising the trays. I will do that. I will also obtain a small sprinkling can to water the medium. It will be a lot easier than using the mister. Seems obvious, but being new to all of this, I just never thought of it.
On a related note, I'm happy to report that one of my moso bamboo seeds sprouted and is now removed from the tray and growing on its own. Hopefully, this is an indication that conditions weren't too bad in there.
Thanks,
M.
Nothing fancy, really.. I put them in about 6" of damp vermiculite in an airtight plastic tub at the back of the fridge. The original pits were fairly small and kind of soft, so if the ones you try are exceptionally hard it might be worth soaking it first or filing an edge kind of like you would do for an avocado seed.
Have you looked at the problem from the other end? Could it be that your home made 'self watering' seed starting trays are not working efficiently rather than the mix being at fault? What is your design? Could you post a picture or diagram? Maybe you could do a control tray using a different mix and see if it is still too wet.
Thank you for helping me out. I appreciate it.
Robin
I am thinking of developing a wild-simulated ginseng plot in my woodland. Can anyone provide information as to estimate 70-80% shade?
Thanks