6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Any time now. I started the short day varieties 2 weeks back and I'll start seeding the intermediate day varieties in the greenhouse next week. But then I will also be transplanting outside much earlier than you plan to - early to mid-February as soon as the ground is dry enough to work. At my latitude I need as many days of 12+ hours of sunlight as possible for big bulbs.
Dave
First rule is don't put the cart in front of the horse. :) First learn the "how-to" of growing from seed, the methods, the equipment, and the steps required. That takes time and practice.
Then pick 2-3 easy-to-grow items and practice with them. Once you are successful with them and have fine tuned your methods and equipment then you can expand your list of seeds to try.
That way you avoid getting discouraged and giving up on the process.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs
My grandmother started me at about age 4 by putting some soil in a fruit jar and sticking some beans and corn down between the soil and the glass so that I could see what was happening. She pointed out the difference to me between dicotyledons and monocotyledons -- she never learned to write her name so I rather doubt, however, that she called them monocots and dicots -- but, you see, the educational seed was planted too.
The folded paper design I posted earlier, I use only for temporary storage or for mailing seeds. If you are having trouble folding it, it is usually because you do not turn it over as directed in picture #3. For long time storage I use the plastic air tight containers used for diabetic test strip storage. They are a little smaller than the old 35MM film shipping cases. Dr. Norman Deno in his many years of seed experimenting found very little difference in life expectancy between seed at a constant room temperature and that at refrigerator temperature for most seed. Al
Did you also buy the thermostat control for the heat pad? It is difficult to control without the separate thermostat.
Otherwise it can help to create a small space between the mat and the bottom of the trays. EX: assuming the seed trays are the standard 1020 trays small wood shims or scrap 1/2" plastic strips work well as spacers placed on the mat. Think outside the box to try to create a 1/2-3/4" space.
If the growing medium was well wetted before filling the trays then a fine-hole sprinkling can of some sort works well to maintain the moisture level - misting really isn't enough.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Hi, Dave:
Thanks for responding. I don't have a thermostat, but I've read elsewhere that it's a really good idea to utilise one for controlling the temperature, as you say. I am looking into it.
As far as I can tell, the seed tray is not actually touching the bottom of outer tray (and so there is some small space between the heat mat the trays). I like your idea of raising the trays. I will do that. I will also obtain a small sprinkling can to water the medium. It will be a lot easier than using the mister. Seems obvious, but being new to all of this, I just never thought of it.
On a related note, I'm happy to report that one of my moso bamboo seeds sprouted and is now removed from the tray and growing on its own. Hopefully, this is an indication that conditions weren't too bad in there.
Thanks,
M.
Nothing fancy, really.. I put them in about 6" of damp vermiculite in an airtight plastic tub at the back of the fridge. The original pits were fairly small and kind of soft, so if the ones you try are exceptionally hard it might be worth soaking it first or filing an edge kind of like you would do for an avocado seed.
Have you looked at the problem from the other end? Could it be that your home made 'self watering' seed starting trays are not working efficiently rather than the mix being at fault? What is your design? Could you post a picture or diagram? Maybe you could do a control tray using a different mix and see if it is still too wet.
The use of domes is hotly debated. They are not used by commercial or professional growers but have some limited advantages for beginners. But they must be removed promptly as soon as the first seeds sprout to avoid problems. Lack of proper air circulation over the young seedlings quickly kills them.
Why not check out all the FAQs here? They cover all the basic questions quite well.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs
More likely to get an informative answer over on the Lawn forum here as that is their focus.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Laws forum
You might want to post over on the Annuals forum here and see if the other growers there have had similar experience with this variety.
In addition to their light requirements I know they require cooler than normal growing temps (45-50 F) for the sturdiest plants. Perhaps your air temps can be reduced if you are growing them indoors. If outside there is little you can do about it.
They are an F1 hybrid so you may have gotten some not-fully-stabilized seed.
Dave
You very well may be right, though. It could be the Mini Spice variety requires more light.
I can't find it now, but I think I do remember reading some information that suggested the Can Can variety was more suitable for ordinary gardening conditions while Mini Spice would require more greenhouse type care with supplemental lighting, temperature control, etc.
I will start some more Mini Spice and give them extra light to see what happens.
Thanks for your input.
Any I've grown have self sown reliably. You're in a Z10? Normally I would say sow outside in Fall through late winter, cold frame or protected pot, but if you don't have much in the way of winter, give the seeds a moist chill of 4-6 weeks at 35-40F (your refrigerator). Barely cover seeds, some light may be beneficial to germination. And be patient, they could still take from 1-3 months to germinate after the moist chill.
What kind of problems have you had with watering from below? That is the ideal method for young seedlings and usually quite easy to do. Perhaps as Susan mentioned you are using a poor quality soil-less potting mix?
Dave
I waas just going to say the same thing Dave. If you are having issues watering anything from above then water from below.