6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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mccommas(z5CT)

I should have said one pack of those bags, rather than one bag (of bags) will last years.

    Bookmark     December 17, 2012 at 9:34PM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

The folded paper design I posted earlier, I use only for temporary storage or for mailing seeds. If you are having trouble folding it, it is usually because you do not turn it over as directed in picture #3. For long time storage I use the plastic air tight containers used for diabetic test strip storage. They are a little smaller than the old 35MM film shipping cases. Dr. Norman Deno in his many years of seed experimenting found very little difference in life expectancy between seed at a constant room temperature and that at refrigerator temperature for most seed. Al

    Bookmark     December 18, 2012 at 8:46AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Did you also buy the thermostat control for the heat pad? It is difficult to control without the separate thermostat.

Otherwise it can help to create a small space between the mat and the bottom of the trays. EX: assuming the seed trays are the standard 1020 trays small wood shims or scrap 1/2" plastic strips work well as spacers placed on the mat. Think outside the box to try to create a 1/2-3/4" space.

If the growing medium was well wetted before filling the trays then a fine-hole sprinkling can of some sort works well to maintain the moisture level - misting really isn't enough.

Hope this helps.

Dave

    Bookmark     December 14, 2012 at 11:53AM
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Maquiaveli(8b)

Hi, Dave:

Thanks for responding. I don't have a thermostat, but I've read elsewhere that it's a really good idea to utilise one for controlling the temperature, as you say. I am looking into it.

As far as I can tell, the seed tray is not actually touching the bottom of outer tray (and so there is some small space between the heat mat the trays). I like your idea of raising the trays. I will do that. I will also obtain a small sprinkling can to water the medium. It will be a lot easier than using the mister. Seems obvious, but being new to all of this, I just never thought of it.

On a related note, I'm happy to report that one of my moso bamboo seeds sprouted and is now removed from the tray and growing on its own. Hopefully, this is an indication that conditions weren't too bad in there.

Thanks,

M.

    Bookmark     December 17, 2012 at 2:33AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Well it sure doesn't hurt to try but I'd be really surprised. The poor embryos in those seeds are so old and have been so abused that the odds of their survival are slim - very slim.

Good luck.

Dave

    Bookmark     December 16, 2012 at 12:18PM
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trpnbils(6B)

Nothing fancy, really.. I put them in about 6" of damp vermiculite in an airtight plastic tub at the back of the fridge. The original pits were fairly small and kind of soft, so if the ones you try are exceptionally hard it might be worth soaking it first or filing an edge kind of like you would do for an avocado seed.

    Bookmark     December 13, 2012 at 9:26PM
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LynnMarie_(5 SW Kansas)

Okay, thanks. I will give it a try.

    Bookmark     December 13, 2012 at 9:42PM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

Have you looked at the problem from the other end? Could it be that your home made 'self watering' seed starting trays are not working efficiently rather than the mix being at fault? What is your design? Could you post a picture or diagram? Maybe you could do a control tray using a different mix and see if it is still too wet.

    Bookmark     November 30, 2012 at 11:40AM
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chervil2(z5 MA)

There are different types of Jiffy-Mix. What one are you having issues with?

    Bookmark     December 10, 2012 at 2:51PM
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Keyboarg

thank for the quick response. and off topic, but is it recommended seeds be started in a seed starting tray like a small dome with a heating pad?

    Bookmark     December 9, 2012 at 9:21PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

The use of domes is hotly debated. They are not used by commercial or professional growers but have some limited advantages for beginners. But they must be removed promptly as soon as the first seeds sprout to avoid problems. Lack of proper air circulation over the young seedlings quickly kills them.

Why not check out all the FAQs here? They cover all the basic questions quite well.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs

    Bookmark     December 10, 2012 at 1:38PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

More likely to get an informative answer over on the Lawn forum here as that is their focus.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Laws forum

    Bookmark     December 8, 2012 at 1:48PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

You might want to post over on the Annuals forum here and see if the other growers there have had similar experience with this variety.

In addition to their light requirements I know they require cooler than normal growing temps (45-50 F) for the sturdiest plants. Perhaps your air temps can be reduced if you are growing them indoors. If outside there is little you can do about it.

They are an F1 hybrid so you may have gotten some not-fully-stabilized seed.

Dave

    Bookmark     December 6, 2012 at 12:57PM
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bellegallica9

You very well may be right, though. It could be the Mini Spice variety requires more light.

I can't find it now, but I think I do remember reading some information that suggested the Can Can variety was more suitable for ordinary gardening conditions while Mini Spice would require more greenhouse type care with supplemental lighting, temperature control, etc.

I will start some more Mini Spice and give them extra light to see what happens.

Thanks for your input.

    Bookmark     December 6, 2012 at 7:27PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Any I've grown have self sown reliably. You're in a Z10? Normally I would say sow outside in Fall through late winter, cold frame or protected pot, but if you don't have much in the way of winter, give the seeds a moist chill of 4-6 weeks at 35-40F (your refrigerator). Barely cover seeds, some light may be beneficial to germination. And be patient, they could still take from 1-3 months to germinate after the moist chill.

    Bookmark     December 3, 2012 at 11:25AM
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clipclop(8a)

Thanks for the info. I will try again maybe I was too impatient. I am in zone 7 central Ga. the seeds are tiny so I will try not to bury them and kill any chance of germination.

    Bookmark     December 5, 2012 at 9:54AM
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jeannienyc(6)

Thank you @goblugal

    Bookmark     October 22, 2012 at 3:29PM
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chervil2(z5 MA)

I wonder if shelf life of pansy seed could be extended by freezer storage? This method is working well for germination of my older spinach seeds.

    Bookmark     December 4, 2012 at 8:55PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Propagation notes, Explorers Garden - Hinkley: fruits of the pipevine remain extremely hard until late autumn when they soften and dehisce the seeds. Seeds will germinate readily after cold stratification"

If seed is sown immediately, as soon as it is ripe in the Fall, they may germinate in 1-3 months with no moist chill, but for best results you may want to begin with the chill even if you know your seed to be freshest. You're an 8A? I'm 8B, if mine I would sow now through end of January and place the pots outside for mother nature to provide some fluctuating temps before becoming more consistently warmer.

    Bookmark     December 4, 2012 at 3:54PM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Lavender grows easily from seed, but it likes a well drained mix which does not match most cow manure, composted or not. You don't benefit from an overly rich seed mix. Al

    Bookmark     December 4, 2012 at 9:37AM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

I agree. First step is to get the shrub identified.If you take a picture the Name That Plant Forum can almost certainly tell you what it is. Many shrubs are much easier and quicker to grow from cuttings than seeds. Plus if the shrub is a hybrid the seeds will not produce plants identical to the parent. Judging from your use of the term 'flower bulb' to denote the fruit/seed I assume you are a newby, so start with an id and we can help from there. Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: Name That Plant

    Bookmark     November 29, 2012 at 4:28PM
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nil13(z21 L.A., CA (Mt. Washington))

the first step is to identify the plant to figure out what conditions the seeds need to germinate. Or you can provide a multitude of environments in order to determine the cultural conditions the seeds need, but that is going to be a difficult long term project. A lot of perennial seeds will stay in the starting medium for six months or more before sprouting.

    Bookmark     December 2, 2012 at 12:12PM
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northerner_on(Z5A ONCanada)

I have started my pepper and tomato seeds this way for a few years partly because of my anxiety of seeing what the seeds are doing, and because I don't want to waste time with 'dud' seeds. However, I use coffee filters which are stronger than paper towels. I fold them in quarters, arrange the seeds as I wish them on the bottom quarter, fold and mist them with a spray bottle. I usually keep them very moist (I can sometimes see water in the bottom of the baggie) but I keep the baggie open, and view them every day. I am now potting up peppers I sowed on March 27, and set up my tomatoes yesterday. Best way to start plants for indoor growing.

    Bookmark     April 9, 2010 at 3:15PM
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Rodolph

I try a different method of seeds germinating. Mine is based on wicking paper towel system, where seeds can breathe freely, and i can control the wetting necessity of the seeds. You can do that simply by inserting any rope or cotton cable in a pot of size 12 cm into one of the holes, and drag it down from another whole. You must have at least 15 cm hanging down from both sides, and a least one. Place the pot above a glass jar, filled with 30% water, having the rope immersed in water (Water can maximum wicks up to 25 cm) . Put your paper towel, a tough one, into a plantation pot and place your seeds onto it. Cover it with another and wet the whole towels. Place them in the sun or the shade, anywhere you think is suitable, and check them daily. You will see the germination within a couple of days if the seeds are new. With the water level, you can control the humidity level of the wicking system. More water means more moisture. I have been using this method for more than a year now and the results are always positive, including all planted seeds I used, even passion fruit seeds. I will upload a photo I made on 3D to show the concept.
Good luck with your seeds.

    Bookmark     November 30, 2012 at 7:05AM
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gardenman101(Z6 Spingfield, Ma)

Also, Maybe seperate the vegitable and flower seed swap for easier swapping.

    Bookmark     November 28, 2012 at 10:57PM
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