6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I agree. First step is to get the shrub identified.If you take a picture the Name That Plant Forum can almost certainly tell you what it is. Many shrubs are much easier and quicker to grow from cuttings than seeds. Plus if the shrub is a hybrid the seeds will not produce plants identical to the parent. Judging from your use of the term 'flower bulb' to denote the fruit/seed I assume you are a newby, so start with an id and we can help from there. Good luck.
Here is a link that might be useful: Name That Plant
the first step is to identify the plant to figure out what conditions the seeds need to germinate. Or you can provide a multitude of environments in order to determine the cultural conditions the seeds need, but that is going to be a difficult long term project. A lot of perennial seeds will stay in the starting medium for six months or more before sprouting.
I have started my pepper and tomato seeds this way for a few years partly because of my anxiety of seeing what the seeds are doing, and because I don't want to waste time with 'dud' seeds. However, I use coffee filters which are stronger than paper towels. I fold them in quarters, arrange the seeds as I wish them on the bottom quarter, fold and mist them with a spray bottle. I usually keep them very moist (I can sometimes see water in the bottom of the baggie) but I keep the baggie open, and view them every day. I am now potting up peppers I sowed on March 27, and set up my tomatoes yesterday. Best way to start plants for indoor growing.
I try a different method of seeds germinating. Mine is based on wicking paper towel system, where seeds can breathe freely, and i can control the wetting necessity of the seeds. You can do that simply by inserting any rope or cotton cable in a pot of size 12 cm into one of the holes, and drag it down from another whole. You must have at least 15 cm hanging down from both sides, and a least one. Place the pot above a glass jar, filled with 30% water, having the rope immersed in water (Water can maximum wicks up to 25 cm) . Put your paper towel, a tough one, into a plantation pot and place your seeds onto it. Cover it with another and wet the whole towels. Place them in the sun or the shade, anywhere you think is suitable, and check them daily. You will see the germination within a couple of days if the seeds are new. With the water level, you can control the humidity level of the wicking system. More water means more moisture. I have been using this method for more than a year now and the results are always positive, including all planted seeds I used, even passion fruit seeds. I will upload a photo I made on 3D to show the concept.
Good luck with your seeds.
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Well i dont know if thats what he/she wanted to hear. What i got was freshness, not whats new. Most seed companies sell only fresh seed that is no more then 1-2 years old insuring maximum germination. There are a few places that sell older seed, that would most likely be heirlooms that were grown out within say the last 10 years and seeds saved. The germination would be lower but the reason they do this is so that others can grow out that paticular hierloom and then in turn offer fresh seed.
Hmmm no reply from the OP so we can only assume but I agree that the question was about fresh seed not new varieties. At least that was my interpretation.
If one had to have "fresh" seeds each year to have a successful garden then there would be little use for all the seed banks and seed vaults around the world nor for all the info available on how to properly store seeds for multiple year use.
Dave
Im going to have to say you wernt getting enough sun. That area looks kinda dark to me. Does it get any brighter then that and if so how much does it get full sun (1 hour 2, etc) Morning Glorys are a sun loving flower, and if the got leggy its becuase you could not provide enough sunlight.
The craked nut will germinate IF!!!!!!!!
1 given a 2 month treatment at 70F THEN a 2 month treatment at 40F......THEN......
Lightly cover the seedsoil temp 65-75F for 30-60 days
Reeamber the sexes are seporate & will take ABOUT 25 years to flower the first time
Any plant which produces pods is designed by nature to spread its seed by the pod bursting open. It will not do this until the seed is properly ripe. So you need to watch the pods until they are dry and on the point of opening naturally to get the ripest seed. For your Koelreuteria (I assume, rather than Laburnum) the seed has already been dispersed by the tree, so that would be the best to gather. Unless, of course it has dropped some substandard seed prematurely or the seed has been lying around a while in poor conditions. In which case maybe wait for the nice fat looking pods still on the tree to mature and then get them as soon as they fall.
Thanks Flora, I kinda had that feeling after I sat, peeling open too many pods that I "took" off the tree. All the seeds were green and then I thought, that would be awful to offer someone seeds that were not viable. I just googled the tree again and saw a photo of the "ripe" seeds, being black.
Darren
I am a "seed person" too! Here's a few examples of great pleasures for me:
- Enjoying the numerous assorted seedlings that sprout in mature gardens
- stumbling on little seedling "surprises"
- Seeing the first green seed leaves show up!
- Appreciating the genetic diversity amongst your seedlings, some are taller, some shorter, some plants bloom earlier than others
- Finding an interesting or unique seedling and anticipating what it could mature into!
- Collecting seed on a mild and sunny September or October out in the wild, and enjoying the company of the birds or an occasional late season butterfly
- collecting extra and sharing seeds with others
- scattering a little native seed, such as common milkweed Asclepias syriaca along wild field edges, hoping to cultivate more Monarch habitat!
And there are many more, too numerous to list!
This is a great site - THANKS for the link - here's a clickable link to the site!
Here is a link that might be useful: Tutorial on germinating different seeds
In other words regardless of source, are all Better Boy F1 seeds created equal?
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With that particular variety since it is well stabilized, likely so since the seeds from all the common hybrids are usually purchased by the reputable commercial suppliers from just a few grower sources and then re-sold to the public. Of course that would not be the case if you buy from individual sellers (IE: those on ebay, amazon, etc.) so you need to stick with reputable vendors.
But that is NOT true for all varieties. There are literally 100's of hybrid varieties where the quality all depends on the source of the seed.
You can find any number of discussions about reputable dealers and non-reputable seed dealers discussed on the Growing Tomatoes forum here. My personal preferences are tomatogrowers.com and tomatofest.com
Dave
Hmm, I never heard of F1s being limited to certain growers.
Patented cuttings are limited to licensed growers.
They pay a royalty per cutting, which will be rooted and grown to a plant.
The royalty in a F1 seed is paid in the price of each seed.
The objective is to sell a lot of seeds, and that includes to the public.
Here is a link that might be useful: random seed page
Propagation notes, Explorers Garden - Hinkley: fruits of the pipevine remain extremely hard until late autumn when they soften and dehisce the seeds. Seeds will germinate readily after cold stratification"
If seed is sown immediately, as soon as it is ripe in the Fall, they may germinate in 1-3 months with no moist chill, but for best results you may want to begin with the chill even if you know your seed to be freshest. You're an 8A? I'm 8B, if mine I would sow now through end of January and place the pots outside for mother nature to provide some fluctuating temps before becoming more consistently warmer.