6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

If it is damp-off then you are over-watering even if you don't think so. It is the most common problem in seedling germination. Damp-off is caused by excess moisture and inadequate air circulation. Cut back on the water and set-up a fan.

Dave

Hi There,
Our clients rarely complain about our services.
If you have any questions about our services, we advise you to look at our FAQ : http: //www.rarexoticseeds.com/en/faq .
Also don't hesitate to contact us at contact@rarexoticseeds.com we will answer you with pleasure and in time.

Thank you.

I would think that as long as you are willing to pot up, feed, and provide adequate light & space for larger plants that there would be little disadvantage to starting a month to 6 weeks earlier than late March for probably most annual and perennial flowers. I have tended to start a bit too early with my seeds just because I need something "gardeny" to do to help alleviate the winter blahs. Last yr I had to repot my snapdragons that I started a few weeks too early, and wasn't able to extract them from the larger clay pot I had thrown them all into (about 4 plants that were too large and entangled to try to separate by the time I planned to plant them out) and ended up enjoying them in that pot for the rest of the summer. Which was fine, but not my original plan and not ideal for the snapdragons. You just don't want to end up with leggy root-bound plants and the timing for it all can be a trick. This year I tried starting some daylily seeds about a month ago, and they're now a couple inches tall with at least another month to go until I plant them out. So, I think it would have been easier to wait a few more weeks for those.

There are some varieties of seeds that you can start earlier than others, especially a lot of perennials. I generally research when to start which seeds (ie 'ten/eight/six weeks before last frost') and put reminders in my calender on when to start which seeds.

Seed storage is my basement in a dark location. We definitely do not have a humidity problem in there right now. Plus, the pelleted seeds were shipped in a little sealable vial, so they're even more protected. The vial is inside the seed envelope as well.

I generally store my seeds in a plastic bag in the fridge.

I float plastic trays in water with a fish tank heater submerged in it. Advantage 1: you can dial in any reasonable temperature within a degree or two. Advantage 2: tanks are BUILT for lights!

I also grow flowers from seed in a basement, though it's furnished so it's generally not too cold. I used to use heating pads (like you use for relaxing muscles), but it actually heated the seedlings too much. Now I just allow them to gain heat from the lights underneath, which are strapped to the wire frame of the shelves with velcro. If they need a heated environment to germinate, I put a plastic top on them, then take it off when they've sprouted.

I'm not sure that all potting mixes are created equally. We bought some 'organic' potting mix at a locally owned store and we are having much better results so far. The texture of the mix is also much softer and drains well, yet retains moisture. No large sticks of pieces of bark either.

I don't know what is put into miracle grow potting mix, but maybe it inhibits germination.

The temperature is the same, we start everything in the same room each year. Upper 60's and low 70's for soil temp.

I think the problem is that potting mix is generally meant for grown plants in pots, not seedlings. As plants in pots have less soil to gain nutrients from, a lot of brands infuse it with things like fertilizer and water-retaining ingredients. It's also more dense in texture to pack more into a small space (ie, a pot), which can make it difficult for little seedlings to poke through. So it may not be the brand that's the problem, but the fact that you're using potting soil.

The organic potting mix you have, on top of being softer and more fine in texture, may have less additives, or the ones they have are more agreeable with seedlings. I myself sometimes get bags of a brand of organic potting mix instead if the local store's run out of seed starting mix, though I mix it in with what I have.

Bees, tall and falling over sounds like inadequate light. What kind of light do you have your seedings in?

They are getting inadequate light- or at least they are getting no artificial light. I lost my indoor grow setup space when I moved some family in, so I'm just using my south facing bay window. I've used this window in the past for other seedlings with no problems for late March starts- But I think with how early I started the asparagus and with the weather and day length not being up to snuff in Feb, that helped made a light difference that's inadequate.

But there's no help for that now, and they are tall. That's why I was wondering if I could transplant them deep like tomatoes or use stakes to stabilize them till I can get them outdoors.

A friend bought me some in the US so I hope I can get them to flower and maybe have viable seed to save!

Wow, I love them too but 5 dollars for shipping, that's almost $10 for 100 seeds.

yes there's less risk of damping off. In a pot the moisture is contained by the pot. In the ground the moisture can spread.

Agree. Assuming you don't over-water there is less risk than in containers. Of course if you do over-water and you allow stagnant heated air to build up in the frame then all that advantage is loss. When the fungus is present and the conditions are right damp-off can develop in even an open air garden bed.

Thanks for the feedback you two I've still got plenty of time to start peppers for my June planting out date so I'll find a better source for these seed varieties.

I've "collected" seed from the bags of dried peppers at Walmart. The bags have holes and well, the seeds kinda fell out...
Anyway I grew out some Japones just fine. Beautiful upright pods with some good heat. That was in 2012. I just ground the last of them for powder...they were starting to fade a bit. I might try them again this season if I have room.

anyway one of the most awesome things about plums (besides yumminess =) is how strong and tough they are! you cut them up heavily and they just resprout, people sculpt them even !

you can also take cuttings and then lay them HORIZONTALLY in soil, or somethin soil like...and they sprout whole new trees. they are good for pleaching and making hedgerows. not like other fruits, which can be a lot more fussy.

Wow I will have to try that with the plumbs!

Hi, I am in the UK and I think I have finally mastered the art of germinating semp begonias
I started my sowing towards the end of November, I seived the compost and filled my tray then soaked it in warmish water and left to drain in the propogater set at 75. The following day I gently compressed my compost, I then gently scattered the minute seed over the surface, Gently misted the seed and Sealed with a bag, 10 days later there was about 90% germination I then left the bag off and placed the container close to the light and dropped the temp to 70
That was 11 weeks ago and the seedlings are now ready to start pricking out,
Hope this helps. Begonia do require a long growing period.

ron.j that is interesting as every time I grew them in bags if I didn't harden them off to come out of the bag they just disappeared. I shall try again LOL

Trimming leek seedlings so young seems to be a bit of a cultural thing. I've not heard of it being done at all by British gardeners and leeks seem to grow OK for us. There is a lively debate about trimming the tops and/or roots of leeks at transplant time but that is a different question.

It might be interesting to trim half and leave half and see if it makes any difference.

I have done both ways and have had good luck either way , I read about doing it to make the plants be hardier .