6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I think it is your mix that is not appropriate for what you are growing. When you buy a bag of potting soil look at the list of ingredients. For what you are growing you do not really need a seed starting mix, just a well made potting soil,preferable based on bark as your organic ingredient. Starting in the smaller cups is also a good idea. Don't worry about fertilizer until you have grown a few roots and two or three sets of true leaves. Make sure the sun from your windows is not too much for the cool season crops you are growing. Al
Hello, its been a while and I have some updates with my third trials. Firstly, one of the Tatsoi that were started in the 6" pot from the first batch pulled through! And is now starting to grow a bit. This is the only one that made it through, all the other ones died.
I started many more in the third trial; I have used plastic and paper cups, potting soil and soiless mix. Since the previous ones didn't work, I don't know if its because the cups were too deep; so I cut down on the amount of medium this time.
These are the ones in my bedroom. Temperature is around 80F. On a nice day, they receive approximately 5 hours of sun; supplementing with metal halides as the window is actually north facing.
Another batch are growing under T5HO in my living room shelf. Temperature is 89F, and they get 13 hours of light per day.
So far, the ones in the bedroom aren't doing well, they are starting to look like the previous batches that failed. On the other hand, the ones grown under the T5HO at a much higher temperature seem OK so far. As you can see in the last picture, a couple of them is growing big enough that I think I can transplant them into 10" pots soon (in fact, I'm thinking of transplanting them tomorrow). I'm still getting the inconsistent green color on the leaves, I have increased the FP to 2 times the specified amount; maybe that is still not enough?
Racking my brain more from when I lived in OH... Those primroses with the puckery leaves that are everywhere in stores in the early spring would be another good one, but hard to find in the fall.
Bergenia might be a candidate for you in a little more shade. They only flower in the spring, but the foliage is tough, turning dark red and staying "on" all winter.
The next-best things are the extremely early and late bloomers, and plants with interesting structures that remain above-ground through winter, like grasses and small shrubs with berries.
Have you checked out the winter forum? What about some flowers inside? Do you have a sunny windowsill for some wax Begonias?
Sorry, straying pretty far from seeds...
Lilacs (syringa) may have slightly different germination requirements depending on which one, but in general, most need to have the seeds exposed to a period of moist cold before they will germinate. Moist cold ( about 35-40F) of anywhere from 1 - 3 months, followed by additional 2 - 8 weeks at approx 70F for germination.
Seeds are surface sown, some light may be beneficial to germination.
Most lilacs we are growing are hybrids and/or grafted - propagating from seed may not produce plants similar to the parent. You could have something lovely, or something not worth the space in your garden :)
This is the Lilac.
I have a hillside that I'm letting grow back in.
Really like the way this one is growing and would be nice out there.
When I collect the pods, I'll take half in to do what you suggest.
The other half I'll sow on the hill and let nature take it's course.
This will be an interesting experiment!
Thank you!
First, I don't grow these, but U of Idaho suggests:
= " best sown as soon as it is ripe in a cold frame. Stored seed requires 2 months cold stratification. When they are large enough to handle, prick the seedlings out into individual pots and grow them on in the greenhouse for at least their first winter. Plant them out into their permanent positions in late spring or early summer, after the last expected frosts.
Germination of freshly harvested seeds occurs 3-6 weeks after seeding and is generally good (50-90%), Stratification is not required if fresh. Seed viability remains good for about 1 year after harvest, but declines rapidly in succeeding years."
If you do chose to store for a few months and not sow immediately, cool and dry for storage. If you are in a humid warm climate, that site may be sealed in a container in your refrigerator after drying....just an envelope on my desk works for seeds for me, my house is on the dry side.
Any seedlings yet? I wish my haskap had some berries. I want to seed a little on the woods edge and in clearings on my property. It would be a nice addition to all the wild raspberries.
How did you collect the seeds? Blender? Any extras you might sell/trade?
I think it helps a lot if you have the time, energy, patience, whatever to push each one down just low enough to brush a bit of dirt over it. If I don't, the birds and/or squirrels eat most or all of my seeds, or they just bake in the sun without enough moisture to instigate sprouting. With tiny seeds, that's impractical though.
If the spot I want to grow in is mulched, I rarely have any luck without starting in pots first.
There are 2 types of marigolds (1) the African/American which is tall growing and (2) The French type which is shorter in height .....Plant the French Variety
Other causes is not enough light (SO move into full light).... OR to much fertilizer ...SO...(use water to leach the soil of the excess fertilizer)
My golden raintree stands along (no other rain trees), grew for 14 years before the golden fronds bloomed, but it has been glorious every year since. If anyone wants pods/seeds, since it isn't contaminated by other "green" raintrees, I'd be glad to send. Just let me know.
I start my snaps seed in January, in the greenhouse, for spring flowering before weather gets too hot for them. Most of mine I will set out as four inch pot size in October for a whole winter of blooming. Winter temps here are seldom below 25 degrees. Al
HI & welcome to Gardenweb. Pansies like cold weather, so unfortunately that may not go well at this time of year. You might want to try another batch in the fall, when you get the most "bang for your buck." They should last until it gets too hot next summer.
The seed must be fresh. You can store seed in a freezer to extend the vitality. Sow in germination medium and keep evenly moist. I wrap the container in a plastic bag until the seeds germinate. The seedlings are tiny and grow slowly at first. Sometimes my pansies over winter and so it could be worthwhile to sow them now and enjoy the flowers in a few weeks from now.
The ultimat source for growing carnations is the "Ball Red Book" but I have not seen a copy for over 20 years.....
Outdoors grow 2-6 ft apart in full sun & rich sandy,well drained soil. Keep well watered. Inndoors, grow in full sun, in cool environment and keep soil evenly moist.
What I do with my window boxes is plant/start annuals (right now dwarf sunflowers and nasturtiums but you can check a local nursery to see what does well in your climate) in a series of square nursery pots (I can fit 5 in each window box). That way I can switch out one or all of the plantings if something fails to thrive, gets played out, or the critters get to it.
I like annuals for the quick shot of color and the fact that window boxes are not really deep/big enough for perennials.
Scarification and stratification both are ways to break dormancy of seed. A hard seed coat will often require scarification to allow moisture through the coat to the seed. In most cases this allows the seed to swell. Many seeds from temperate regions will have biochemical control of embryo development that needs to be overcome by chilling. A seed may require one or the other, but usually not both. If the seed supplier suggests stratification with no suggested time, I would probably try up to 30 days. Al
A seedling did come up but seems more like hyacinth bean vine than hardebergia, can someone confirm if it is hardebergia?