6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

First, I don't grow these, but U of Idaho suggests:

= " best sown as soon as it is ripe in a cold frame. Stored seed requires 2 months cold stratification. When they are large enough to handle, prick the seedlings out into individual pots and grow them on in the greenhouse for at least their first winter. Plant them out into their permanent positions in late spring or early summer, after the last expected frosts.

Germination of freshly harvested seeds occurs 3-6 weeks after seeding and is generally good (50-90%), Stratification is not required if fresh. Seed viability remains good for about 1 year after harvest, but declines rapidly in succeeding years."

If you do chose to store for a few months and not sow immediately, cool and dry for storage. If you are in a humid warm climate, that site may be sealed in a container in your refrigerator after drying....just an envelope on my desk works for seeds for me, my house is on the dry side.

Any seedlings yet? I wish my haskap had some berries. I want to seed a little on the woods edge and in clearings on my property. It would be a nice addition to all the wild raspberries.

How did you collect the seeds? Blender? Any extras you might sell/trade?

Are your seeds still in the little spherical seed husks? Try cracking them open (there should be 2 seeds inside), soak them in water for 24 hrs, then sow. See if that helps.

Zinnias? Yes, they work very well just sprinkled. Just make sure the soil in the bed is fluffy, not at all packed down.

I think it helps a lot if you have the time, energy, patience, whatever to push each one down just low enough to brush a bit of dirt over it. If I don't, the birds and/or squirrels eat most or all of my seeds, or they just bake in the sun without enough moisture to instigate sprouting. With tiny seeds, that's impractical though.

If the spot I want to grow in is mulched, I rarely have any luck without starting in pots first.

Not at all, plenty of time. It only takes about 6 weeks to go from sprout to flower with these. The more heat, the better. Are your sprouts getting enough sun?

There are 2 types of marigolds (1) the African/American which is tall growing and (2) The French type which is shorter in height .....Plant the French Variety
Other causes is not enough light (SO move into full light).... OR to much fertilizer ...SO...(use water to leach the soil of the excess fertilizer)

HI & welcome to Gardenweb. Pansies like cold weather, so unfortunately that may not go well at this time of year. You might want to try another batch in the fall, when you get the most "bang for your buck." They should last until it gets too hot next summer.

The seed must be fresh. You can store seed in a freezer to extend the vitality. Sow in germination medium and keep evenly moist. I wrap the container in a plastic bag until the seeds germinate. The seedlings are tiny and grow slowly at first. Sometimes my pansies over winter and so it could be worthwhile to sow them now and enjoy the flowers in a few weeks from now.

The ultimat source for growing carnations is the "Ball Red Book" but I have not seen a copy for over 20 years.....
Outdoors grow 2-6 ft apart in full sun & rich sandy,well drained soil. Keep well watered. Inndoors, grow in full sun, in cool environment and keep soil evenly moist.

What I do with my window boxes is plant/start annuals (right now dwarf sunflowers and nasturtiums but you can check a local nursery to see what does well in your climate) in a series of square nursery pots (I can fit 5 in each window box). That way I can switch out one or all of the plantings if something fails to thrive, gets played out, or the critters get to it.

I like annuals for the quick shot of color and the fact that window boxes are not really deep/big enough for perennials.

I'd recommend portulacas/moss rose or gazanias. They are both sun and heat lovers, and they don't have deep roots.

Are you looking for some place like Seed Savers Exchange? They offer some vegetable seeds through a public catalogue, but they also have hundreds or thousands of members who grow heirloom varieties of all kinds of vegetables and grains and fruits, and exchange them with other members. Hope this helps.

Martha

Hiya '67. A couple of questions back at you: Have you used that moo-nure from Home Depot before in your soil blocks? If so, ok, check. If not, cow manure can stunt a plant in a compressed soil block due to the excessive nitrogen still needing to be broken down and unable to do so in a less oxygenated environment like a soil block. Then, maybe you're using the fish emulsions too soon, overfertilizing them and causing nitrogen burn. Also, maybe you're compacting the block too much, leaving no chance for a tap root to break free. Inspect the seedling: are the roots stunted too? Did they ever come out of the blocks at all? Were they brown when they did? Brassicas are quite fine in soil blocks really, but you don't need to fertilize them for about 4-6 weeks. If it was me, I'd skip the cow manure, or at least use much less, and try worm compost, worm castings, home-made aged compost, or even good rich garden topsoil. Let me know if this helps: don't give up!

Here is a link that might be useful: Soil Block Makers

Geranium pratense (like Splish Splash) - Geranium pratense, 64-71F, if no germination after 4 weeks, move 39F for 4-6 weeks, then move 41-53F for germination. They may not germinate well for you in hot weather.

Penstemon grandiflorus (like Shell Leaf) - Surface sow 8 weeks @ 40F is the typical suggestion, light may be beneficial to germination. Can you provide the cool temps this time of year (approx the same as your refrigerator, but as far as I can tell, there is no light on inside with the door closed :))