6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
All depends on what vegetables you are talking about. Leafy greens and cCole crops like cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli etc. will do much better inside. They will just bolt otherwise.
Tomatoes would do alright outside in shade.
Dave
Here I am a grower of ornamentals and start lots of seeds, mostly perennials and biennials outdoors in the summer. I have a plastic covered area 10x20 feet open on both ends, mostly shaded by tall trees. The summer temperatures are just about right and the fluctuating day/night temperatures actually seem to help the germination. The seeds are kept plastic covered to maintain moisture until germination, when the plastic is then removed. Al
Mandolls - check 'stratify'. It's the practice of putting moist seeds into a cold environment to break dormancy, and a requirement for many things although not usually for the seeds mentioned above.
I don't know if it would kick start sujiwans older seeds though - always a chance and it doesn't hurt anything but a little refrigerator space occupied to try.
Thanks Art, I think I did cover up the violas a tiny bit. The cold treatment worked, they've all peaked their little green heads out of the pot now! Just took a little longer than I expected.
My coleus, lobelia, thyme, and violas have finally germinated, hooray! The plastic baggie tent worked well. Only thing that hasn't sprouted is the Alyssum. I suppose those are a lost cause, now.
I sowed a mess of alyssum outside, in a pot. I know they're supposed to be a certain distance apart, but honestly, they're tiny seeds...I planted them in some soil (nothing special, I guess--potting soil?) and set them outside. All I've done is try to keep them moist. And I put netting over it to keep the cat out. Several came up. Alas, some of those that did got utterly bowled over in last night's storm. But there are some smaller ones that are OK because they weren't tall enough to get knocked down.
I also tried the same thing with some columbine this year. Nothing happened with them at all. So much for supposedly easy plants (at least, I think they're supposed to be pretty simple).
A carrier for 3" pots will be about as close as you will get.
If you have any large home improvement stores with a garden/plant department, go look in their dumpster. They throw away all sizes of pots and carriers for all the many plants they kill and can't sell. Look for the dumpster that is just outside of the fence near that department. They usually have one that is separate from the main stores garbage.
There's a lot of annuals (like zinnia, cosmos, etc) that say on the seed packet "Can be started indoors x weeks before last frost date OR outside after danger of frost". I am in zone 6/7 and have put zinnias in direct seed in mid summer and gotten a fine show before frost. I f you want a longer show I wouldn't wait that long though! I have been starting many perennials because my seed is getting old. I'll just have to grow a bunch for foliage this year (haha) and get my flowers next in most cases... Your mileage may vary as far as seasonal issues like earlier frosts in Indiana.
I only grew these once and had no trouble. I just sowed them in pots of compost (seed mix) on a windowsill in the kitchen then transplanted outside. I didn't soak or scarify them. I was a student at the time so definitely had no heat mats, propagators etc.
certified organic~~~ Means the seeds came from plants the were grown without the use of chemical of any kind. Some guidlines are below.
# avoidance of synthetic chemical inputs "fertilizer, pesticides, antibiotics, food additives, etc>, genetically modified organisms, irradiation, and the use of Human sewage sludge.
# use of farmland that has been free from synthetic chemicals for a number of years (often, three or more);
Heirlooms~~~ Are cultivar's that were commonly grown during earlier periods in human history, but which are not used in modern large-scale agriculture. Many heirloom vegetables have kept their traits through open pollination, while fruit varieties such as apples have been propagated over the centuries through grafts and cuttings.
Hi y'all...I work with an organic seed company (All Good Things Organic Seeds) and thought I'd chime in to help clear up some seed terminology!
Heirloom: Yiorges, you're right...there is NO agreed-upon definition for 'heirloom.' My favorite so far is 'a variety with a name, a place, and a story.' Basically, a variety that has been saved for certain characteristics (color, shape, flavor) for some period of time...typically, for many generations.
Organic: Seeds labeled 'organic' ('certified organic,' 'usda organic,' or just 'organic') were produced from plants grown on certified organic farms. The main advantage of organic seeds is that they have been adapted to the growing conditions in which they were produced � organic conditions. The opposite is also true: non-organic seeds are adapted to the synthetic fertilizer/pesticide conditions in which they were produced. If you have an organic garden, you will typically have better results from organic seeds. The other bonus of buying organic seeds is that you are supporting organic agriculture.
Suggested companies selling organic seeds: http://www.seedalliance.org/Seed_Companies_Selling_Organic_Seed/
Hope this clears things up a little :)
Winston
Here is an affordable plant option. Hope this helps, Tony
Here is a link that might be useful: Honeycomb butterfly bush
Hi Tony. Thank you! I've added that to my ebay watch list and will bid on Friday. :D
Now to find a multi colored one. I've seen a pink/orange one before and loved it. I've got 2 different purples, 2 pinks and a white.
I was hooked the year my first one bloomed and was abundant with butterflies, moths, hummingbirds and those funny hummingbird moths.
It doesn't even have to be 'infected' potting soil for one of the ubiquitous 'damping off' disorders to take hold. A poorly drained, mucky potting mix is often part of the problem. So is too much moisture. If your seedlings are not getting enough light, the stems will be leggy and spindly, with weak cell walls.
As ifraser says, it will be very difficult for anyone to help you without knowing a lot more information. YOU have to help us before we can steer you in the right direction.
Why are there 3 postings of this same question, all dated the same day, yet no replies to any of the requests for more information?
If you can't see your post after you post it the first time then you need to refresh the page. There is no need to keep posting the same question over and over.
Dave
See: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/seed/msg052019442057.html?1
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/seed/msg0520143831049.html?1
Only you can determine how badly rootbound they are. Young plants can often be prised apart or even sliced in order to encourage branching of the root system. Don't be afraid to do that.
Just try not to rip the roots but cut them sharply instead. Young roots are extremely willing to grow a flush of new roots at the severed ends.
Flora, just wanted to let you know I laid down chicken wire over my seed beds and so far so good. I actually saw the puppy avoid the chicken wire area and go around it! I have started dill, parsley and chives so far, more to follow! Thanks!
Good news. I just wish it kept out snails too!