6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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franknjim

A carrier for 3" pots will be about as close as you will get.

If you have any large home improvement stores with a garden/plant department, go look in their dumpster. They throw away all sizes of pots and carriers for all the many plants they kill and can't sell. Look for the dumpster that is just outside of the fence near that department. They usually have one that is separate from the main stores garbage.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2012 at 4:49PM
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jimigunne(9A)

Found something that works well at Wal Mart. Clear plastic storage bin, Sterilite 1926(34 qt) 24 16 oz. cups fit perfectly into one. The only drawback is the cost: abt 7.00 ea.

    Bookmark     May 12, 2012 at 7:00AM
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sujiwan_gw 6b MD/PA

There's a lot of annuals (like zinnia, cosmos, etc) that say on the seed packet "Can be started indoors x weeks before last frost date OR outside after danger of frost". I am in zone 6/7 and have put zinnias in direct seed in mid summer and gotten a fine show before frost. I f you want a longer show I wouldn't wait that long though! I have been starting many perennials because my seed is getting old. I'll just have to grow a bunch for foliage this year (haha) and get my flowers next in most cases... Your mileage may vary as far as seasonal issues like earlier frosts in Indiana.

    Bookmark     May 11, 2012 at 4:53PM
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tanyuu((5/6 - South IN))

Haha, that may be my only choice, it seems. I'm inbetween zones and frost is fickle here.

    Bookmark     May 11, 2012 at 8:12PM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

I only grew these once and had no trouble. I just sowed them in pots of compost (seed mix) on a windowsill in the kitchen then transplanted outside. I didn't soak or scarify them. I was a student at the time so definitely had no heat mats, propagators etc.

    Bookmark     April 5, 2012 at 10:57AM
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msbatt

Well, I'm beginning to think I had some bad seeds---the second packet is germinating MUCH better. Or possibly my first ones just weren't warm enough.

And once they do come up, stand back! (*grin*)

    Bookmark     May 10, 2012 at 9:30PM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

sounds great dale! and yes, you can plant them 3" deeper, be sure to snipe off any leaves you will be burying so they don't rot

Keriann~

    Bookmark     May 9, 2012 at 8:06AM
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Maxine(5MA)

thanks keriann!
-tale care!
dale

    Bookmark     May 9, 2012 at 1:06PM
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luvahydrangea(Albany, NY 5)

I thought winter sowing only applied to plants that were winter hardy or required some kind of stratification. I always called Spring sowing, "direct sowing."

    Bookmark     May 7, 2012 at 10:07AM
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zen_man

Winter Sowing can be applied to pretty much anything, and is not limited to winter hardy plants or seeds that need cold treatment. With a smile on my face, I would say that doing Winter Sowing in the Spring is "silly".

    Bookmark     May 8, 2012 at 10:38AM
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aquawise(zone 4 Utah)

certified organic~~~ Means the seeds came from plants the were grown without the use of chemical of any kind. Some guidlines are below.
# avoidance of synthetic chemical inputs "fertilizer, pesticides, antibiotics, food additives, etc>, genetically modified organisms, irradiation, and the use of Human sewage sludge.
# use of farmland that has been free from synthetic chemicals for a number of years (often, three or more);

Heirlooms~~~ Are cultivar's that were commonly grown during earlier periods in human history, but which are not used in modern large-scale agriculture. Many heirloom vegetables have kept their traits through open pollination, while fruit varieties such as apples have been propagated over the centuries through grafts and cuttings.

    Bookmark     November 30, 2010 at 12:22AM
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WinstonL(10a)

Hi y'all...I work with an organic seed company (All Good Things Organic Seeds) and thought I'd chime in to help clear up some seed terminology!

Heirloom: Yiorges, you're right...there is NO agreed-upon definition for 'heirloom.' My favorite so far is 'a variety with a name, a place, and a story.' Basically, a variety that has been saved for certain characteristics (color, shape, flavor) for some period of time...typically, for many generations.

Organic: Seeds labeled 'organic' ('certified organic,' 'usda organic,' or just 'organic') were produced from plants grown on certified organic farms. The main advantage of organic seeds is that they have been adapted to the growing conditions in which they were produced � organic conditions. The opposite is also true: non-organic seeds are adapted to the synthetic fertilizer/pesticide conditions in which they were produced. If you have an organic garden, you will typically have better results from organic seeds. The other bonus of buying organic seeds is that you are supporting organic agriculture.

Suggested companies selling organic seeds: http://www.seedalliance.org/Seed_Companies_Selling_Organic_Seed/

Hope this clears things up a little :)

Winston

    Bookmark     May 7, 2012 at 11:35PM
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Tony G(5a)

Here is an affordable plant option. Hope this helps, Tony

Here is a link that might be useful: Honeycomb butterfly bush

    Bookmark     May 7, 2012 at 3:39PM
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joannpalmyra

Hi Tony. Thank you! I've added that to my ebay watch list and will bid on Friday. :D
Now to find a multi colored one. I've seen a pink/orange one before and loved it. I've got 2 different purples, 2 pinks and a white.
I was hooked the year my first one bloomed and was abundant with butterflies, moths, hummingbirds and those funny hummingbird moths.

    Bookmark     May 7, 2012 at 9:36PM
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Lorri_DK(7b/8a)

Could it be nasturiums?

    Bookmark     May 6, 2012 at 9:56PM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

It's definitely not Nasturtium - they self seed all over my allotment and don't look like this

    Bookmark     May 7, 2012 at 8:46AM
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

It doesn't even have to be 'infected' potting soil for one of the ubiquitous 'damping off' disorders to take hold. A poorly drained, mucky potting mix is often part of the problem. So is too much moisture. If your seedlings are not getting enough light, the stems will be leggy and spindly, with weak cell walls.

As ifraser says, it will be very difficult for anyone to help you without knowing a lot more information. YOU have to help us before we can steer you in the right direction.

    Bookmark     May 4, 2012 at 10:27AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Why are there 3 postings of this same question, all dated the same day, yet no replies to any of the requests for more information?

If you can't see your post after you post it the first time then you need to refresh the page. There is no need to keep posting the same question over and over.

Dave

See: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/seed/msg052019442057.html?1

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/seed/msg0520143831049.html?1

    Bookmark     May 4, 2012 at 4:32PM
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

Only you can determine how badly rootbound they are. Young plants can often be prised apart or even sliced in order to encourage branching of the root system. Don't be afraid to do that.

Just try not to rip the roots but cut them sharply instead. Young roots are extremely willing to grow a flush of new roots at the severed ends.

    Bookmark     May 4, 2012 at 10:20AM
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ifraser25(z11 Brazil)

Small containers dry out a lot faster than the soil in your garden, and drought is one of the main reasons for seedling losses. This is the principal reason why most gardeners don't put container sowings in full sun. Do you remember those old-fashioned "Welcome" mats, made of jute fiber or what not? And how if they got wet they'd be like that for a week? If you stand your seed containers on top of something similar, they will not dry out so easily.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2012 at 8:49PM
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bosewichte(7a/8b)

Thanks so much! I'll stay on top of it and hope for some great germination! :)

    Bookmark     May 4, 2012 at 6:52AM
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mcpeg(5a)

Answered on other posts.

    Bookmark     May 4, 2012 at 6:41AM
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mcpeg(5a)

Hi,
is there any sign of fuzz on the dirt? Do the seedlings suddenly wilt and die? Is your soil very wet? These are things that all lead to damping off - a mold/fungus develops and wipes out seedlings.

There are a couple of things you can do today. Put a low fan on to circulate the air around your seedlings. Second do you have any cinnamon powder? It works as an antifungal naturally - just shake the cinnamon all over the seedling tray and leave the stuff on top of the soil. This might help. I can't see an image of your tray so I'm just guessing from experience.

Please let me know how things turn out.

Cheers,
Peggy

    Bookmark     May 4, 2012 at 6:36AM
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plantsrup(5a)

That pic on left is what the stems under my leaves look like. A little shorter but just as weak. The leaves on mine are quite healthy though. Hopefully some good sunny days will strengthen them as suggested.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2012 at 5:59PM
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Tink5980(7a)

I have found from trial and error to grow them in the pot or spot that you want them..

    Bookmark     May 3, 2012 at 8:09PM
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luvahydrangea(Albany, NY 5)

Like Keriann and mandolls I put my plants out this week and they are peppers and tomatoes. I cover them at night under a plastic tunnel, but the over cast skies have been great this week for hardening off.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2012 at 8:52AM
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coconut_head(5b)

Set mine from my sunporch to the yard yesterday morning, Same here, 100% overcast and no wind to speak of. A light rain in the evening. They look fine with the exception of one leggy tomato seedling. Either it will stand back up or not, it's on it's own now. The other 200 seedlings were fine as of this morning.

All that being said, if I do notice they start to wilt or anything, I would bring them back in to recover a little and then once they did, bring them back out again.

They did have one half day out under the apple tree which provided dappled sun, so this wasn't thier first true foray out into the wilderness.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2012 at 12:02PM
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