6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed


Thanks. I figured I was being extremely cautious wi watering . I watered more judiciously and all my seedlings have grown well. I do belong to the almost tropical climactic zone.
Now, I'm faced with what I read as thinning out and transplanting. How do I thin out properly and how do decide which ones to thin out? I feel very sad at the thought since all my seeds have sprouted healthy. Also, when do I transplant? What does first true leaves mean?
I'm so happy with my output I wanna try chamomile and lavender.

Thank you, Dave! I feel so dumb. I thought I had looked at the FAQ and didn't really find much info. Reason why? I clicked the WRONG link and was actually looking at something not related to the FAQ.
I read through all the links. Very helpful, and thorough. One question: Can I use straight sphagnum peat as my growing medium? I also have some perlite if it would be better to mix the two. I will be using recycled flats, and prefer to keep the seedlings growing in this medium until I transplant outdoors in the garden. What do you think? I'm so excited to give this a try! I just have to rig up a shop light in the basement and I'll be set.
Thanks for the help!
Sandy

One question: Can I use straight sphagnum peat as my growing medium? I also have some perlite if it would be better to mix the two.
Straight peat isn't recommended as it is too acidic, difficult to get wet and then retains too much moisture once it is - seeds rot. If you want to go that route - and I don't recommend it - then mix it with the perlite 2 parts peat to 1 part perlite and buy some ag lime to fix the pH problem. Add 1 T of the powdered lime to each 6 quarts of the peat/perlite mix.
It is much easier and you'll have much greater success if you just buy a bag of soil-less seed starting mix.
Dave


What vegetables and herbs are you growing? Some of the hardier ones may be perfectly happy on your porch if it is glazed, ie light, until you start to harden them off and they go out in the garden. In fact some varieties may be ready to start hardening off now. It all depends on what you are growing.

You do understand that you don't have to pinch them at all, right? It all depends on the appearance you want - tall stalks or low bushy clusters.
But yes IF you want lower bushier plants then you would pinch all the varieties. As to timing pinch and then give them a week before transplanting. Make sure they are well hardened off first.
And if you are going to pinch anyway then root the cuttings for even more plants. They root easily.
Dave

You can transplant those tomatoes if you want but *definitely* remove the netting. I'd even say go back and take the netting off the peppers. There was a thread a while ago by someone who planted out his peppers with that netting stuff on and it stunted the growth of his pepper plant because the roots were never able to grow outside that netting.

It's okay! I'm actually wishing I had more time so I can try more seeds myself; I'm still learning when is enough water between two brands of seed-starting foam-type kits!
The link below is something I use as a guide to how long things will take things to germinate. If it's too late, see if the seeds will last until next year.
For propagation, look for the best places to get heating pads, soil and/or kits, and lights. These things will be able to be reused, so if you start slow and shop around, you won't put too much strain on your budget, and you can maybe take advantage of sales over the winter months.
Creativity can be a boon too- anything can hold soil, after all, and I've seen people use things like plastic milk jugs or cup halves.
I can attest to cosmos being fast growers! If the weather is nice and sunny, you can take your flats out during the day too to get a nice boost of sunlight once they're in the seedling stage.
Here is a link that might be useful: Germination info

I have limited indoor space for seed starting, so I often don't start my perennial flower seeds until I begin hardening off my pepper and tomatoes. It may not be ideal, but our summers are lasting a little longer, and our falls are more mild, so by the time I get them planted out in late June, early July, they seem to do fine. I really couldn't do it if I had to try and start them all at once. So, you might say that I am chronically/intentionally late with most of my flower seeds.

Warm cold cool (40s, 50s, not 65F+ for the final cycle) is whats always been recommended for astrantia - truthfully, I always had a problem with purchased seed. I don't have a good place to achieve 50 for germination, basement or otherwise, unless sowing outdoors.
This is among the few plants where to have the seed I could sow successfully, I bought a plant...same season access to fresh seed. They are easy when sown fresh, pots left outdoors, germination takes place late winter/earliest spring here. The darker flowering varieties will produce seedlings with a range from light to dark flowers, often producing a flower or two their first season so you can pick which seedlings to keep depending on your preference.
That original plant, that became a clump, self sowed to the point of almost being a pest :) Seedlings to weed, to move to better and other places, even seedlings in the lawn :) But still at least a runner-up for the longest blooming plant that I grow.


How to save zinna seeds.
Here is a link that might be useful: How to save zinna seeds

The seed need 4 weeks at 40F as a pretreatment...If they did not get this then store in refrigator for required additional time....
then lightly cover seed soil temp 70-75F for germination.. taking 10-12 days..... germination to transplant 8 weeks.


Thanks for all the responses.
First, silly puns are acceptable on a gardening forum, maybe the only place...but they are acceptable...and yes my cups do runneth over.
I had considered potting up, but with almost 40 total seedlings, maybe 20 or so would need a larger pot, thats a lot of new pots. I think I am going to risk taking a few losses and get them outside. I have already begun hardening off. At this point they go out in the morning when it is still cool, 6:00-6:30, and stay out until after dark, so far so good.
There is a house in my neighborhood that has had small seedlings planted for a month, and with volunteers from last year surviving in a small bed out back I am confident they will make it, as long as the transplant doesn't shock them to bad.


To be chilled for pre treatment to germination, the primrose should be at 35-40F, about like your household refrigerator. P polyantha doesn't usually need it but chilling shouldn't hurt the seed either, not even if you've sown them some time back (just don't plunge them into your freezer for an abrupt drop to 0). At what temperature have you been holding the pots - polyantha is said to germinate best at 60-65 and no warmer than 65 - warmer could delay germination. Surface sown or barely covered.
If you will read through this article by plantsman Tony Avent, you'll see that he has taken ungerminated baptisia from the sowing medium and used the boiling water treatment successfully:
Here is a link that might be useful: Revenge of Redneck Lupins - Avent
My area is in the basement, but the seeds have heating pads and domes over them, so most likely, probably in the 70's.
Thanks for the link! I'll have to try that out later today.