6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

You do understand that you don't have to pinch them at all, right? It all depends on the appearance you want - tall stalks or low bushy clusters.

But yes IF you want lower bushier plants then you would pinch all the varieties. As to timing pinch and then give them a week before transplanting. Make sure they are well hardened off first.

And if you are going to pinch anyway then root the cuttings for even more plants. They root easily.

Dave

Thanks for the info Dave. I think i will pinch half of each variety. I plan on planting them in they ground this weekend so I will give them a week atleast before pinching. I wanted to try taking cuttings anyway so that works. I love learning.

It's okay! I'm actually wishing I had more time so I can try more seeds myself; I'm still learning when is enough water between two brands of seed-starting foam-type kits!

The link below is something I use as a guide to how long things will take things to germinate. If it's too late, see if the seeds will last until next year.

For propagation, look for the best places to get heating pads, soil and/or kits, and lights. These things will be able to be reused, so if you start slow and shop around, you won't put too much strain on your budget, and you can maybe take advantage of sales over the winter months.

Creativity can be a boon too- anything can hold soil, after all, and I've seen people use things like plastic milk jugs or cup halves.

I can attest to cosmos being fast growers! If the weather is nice and sunny, you can take your flats out during the day too to get a nice boost of sunlight once they're in the seedling stage.

Here is a link that might be useful: Germination info

I have limited indoor space for seed starting, so I often don't start my perennial flower seeds until I begin hardening off my pepper and tomatoes. It may not be ideal, but our summers are lasting a little longer, and our falls are more mild, so by the time I get them planted out in late June, early July, they seem to do fine. I really couldn't do it if I had to try and start them all at once. So, you might say that I am chronically/intentionally late with most of my flower seeds.

Warm cold cool (40s, 50s, not 65F+ for the final cycle) is whats always been recommended for astrantia - truthfully, I always had a problem with purchased seed. I don't have a good place to achieve 50 for germination, basement or otherwise, unless sowing outdoors.

This is among the few plants where to have the seed I could sow successfully, I bought a plant...same season access to fresh seed. They are easy when sown fresh, pots left outdoors, germination takes place late winter/earliest spring here. The darker flowering varieties will produce seedlings with a range from light to dark flowers, often producing a flower or two their first season so you can pick which seedlings to keep depending on your preference.

That original plant, that became a clump, self sowed to the point of almost being a pest :) Seedlings to weed, to move to better and other places, even seedlings in the lawn :) But still at least a runner-up for the longest blooming plant that I grow.

Thanks, guys!
I will go the winter sow root and hope for the best. I adore this flower and have several plants - I will look for seedlings near them.
I guess when they're happy and they know it, they'll self seed!

No nothing on the other forum, so I'd be happy to hear from anyone.

How to save zinna seeds.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to save zinna seeds

Thanks for all the responses.

First, silly puns are acceptable on a gardening forum, maybe the only place...but they are acceptable...and yes my cups do runneth over.

I had considered potting up, but with almost 40 total seedlings, maybe 20 or so would need a larger pot, thats a lot of new pots. I think I am going to risk taking a few losses and get them outside. I have already begun hardening off. At this point they go out in the morning when it is still cool, 6:00-6:30, and stay out until after dark, so far so good.

There is a house in my neighborhood that has had small seedlings planted for a month, and with volunteers from last year surviving in a small bed out back I am confident they will make it, as long as the transplant doesn't shock them to bad.

well I'm glad silly puns are acceptable, i guess I too am a gambler! ;)

If they haven't been outside, you'll want to harden them off gradually (as much for wind as for sun) and it would be best to wait until after danger of frost. When you do plant them, will you be there and able to water through the hot months this first spring/summer season?

I get my supplies from Charleys, not that I expect every hobbyist to special order pots :) It can be difficult to find pots for plants that will form a tap root that are not as wide as tall and take up more than their share of room. My starter/first pots for indivdual trees, shrubs, perennials are 3.5x5" deep and I have a few of the tree pots, about 4x9" deep. You could get creative, use water bottles or litre pop bottles with drainage holes cut in (make sure they are adequate) and the tops cut off in a pinch.

Here is a link that might be useful: Charleys

Thanks so much for your help! I'll be gone for much of the summer BUT most of my property is woodland and in shade so I'm hoping that this will help. Just hope I can deer proof everything, though I *think* buckeyes are not a delicacy for deer. I did make a pot w/2 milk bottles for a paw paw once...guess I just didn't research buckeyes well enough...I will check out Charleys. Thank-you!

ok I think i got thanks for everyones help

Thanks, Dave. I missed that. The mention of lights had me confused. I guess they were added. It looks like a patio greenhouse. I think if the doors were left open (or the cover off altogether) it would work fine for starting seeds inside.