6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
It is called "damp-off" a fungus disease caused by soil that is too wet and inadequate air circulation. I linked the FAQ about it below. It should answer all your questions but if not let me know.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Damp-Off FAQ
Thank you Digdirt.
I knew I heard of something in particular doing this before but couldn't recall what the culprit was! It's strange to me that it's happened well after the plants have moved outdoors, but we did have some mild weather over the weekend which may have had something to do with it. I also found two more that had been affected. They are getting a good dose of sunshine to insure the soil is dry on top!
Depends on how long before you can plant them out. Within the next week days they will be fine. Longer than that they will quickly become rootbound in a 6 pack and need to be transplanted to a larger container - like say a coffee cup or such. They can be transplanted at any time after they germinate.
Dave
Failure of the cotyledons to shed the seed coat is usually caused by one of 2 issues - overly shallow planting (real common with mechanical or other methods of bulk seeding seeding) or using old seed. Insufficient soil moisture levels while germinating can also play a lesser role. With first, portions of the cotyledons will be exposed. In the second the entire head of the plant may remain contained with only the stem showing.
That said there is no reason for the issue to kill the plant and in most cases they are easy to remove IF any of the cotyledons are exposed. Some recommend the use of misting and tweezers or sniping them off with scissors. But the most effective method is to just dab a bit of your saliva on the seed coat. The enzymes in saliva dissolve the seed coat.
Dave
Kabocha is a vining squash and while the central part of the plant will be approx. 3' in diameter, the vines will get 5 to 6' long (or longer depending on the soil fertility and growing conditions) so it needs plenty of room.
Squash is normally planted in a small hill of soil with a shallow trench around the base to hold water and lots of space around it with 2-3 plants per hill. Make the hill 6-8" tall, flatten and smooth the top, plant 4 spaced seeds in the top and then save the best 2 plants after they sprout. Water and feed the plants well and monitor closely for squash bugs.
How many squash (sausages???) you will get all depends on how fertile your soil is and how well the blooms are pollinated. Many of us hand pollinate regularly to insure good production. There is a FAQ here about how to do that.
Check out all the pics linked below of the plants and be sure to check out the discussions on the Pumpkins & Squash forum here too.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Kabocha squash pics
Heat from the lights isn't normally an issue. But it all depends on the bulbs you are using. T5s put out more heat than T8 or T12 so but it wouldn't be that spotty.
If the soil is a potting soil then then it is the most likely cause - compaction and water retention issues. Seen any fungus gnats?
Dave
There have always been some fungus gnats flying around since the seeds were first planted. I have since cut back watering and the top soil layer is not wet and there are no fallen leaves on the soil.
From what you've said and what I've read it seems to be the fact that the potting soil does not allow water to flow or the plants for that matter. The soil is too compact. For starters I've used a toothpick to loosen the soil and I will repot them into a more appropriate mixture once I visit the local home depot.
Thanks for your help with pointing me in the right direction!
Joseph
I don't see anything on your list that requires darkness to germinate. I'd surface sow all, or very lightly cover...placing just a bit of the sowing medium or some grit on top to insure good soil contact.
I've sown somniferum and nudicale plenty of times direct sowing anywhere from earliest winter to earliest spring (Z 8b)- direct sowing: literally tossing the seeds into beds where I would like to see the plants grow. I haven't attempted to cover seeds at all.
The p. rupifragum might benefit from a brief moist chill of 2 weeks or so (40ish F) - does not always need it but you might experience more complete germination with a moist chill.
Thank you. I'm not sure why my list has darkness down for some... Will have to fix that.
Do you have any troubles with birds eating the seeds? Every time I try to direct sow, the seeds go missing in a few days. It makes things a bit complicated when trying to start plants that resent transplanting.
I didn't see this mentioned by anyone else, but if you go over to the seed exchange forum, often times people will offer to send seeds if you send them a bubble envelope and postage. Also, if you check people's trade lists, often times they will have a disclaimer stating that they are willing to do trades for bubble envelopes and postage for things on their trade lists.
Good luck!
Here is a link that might be useful: Seed Exchange Forum
I've also been experiencing this problem with both my tomato and pepper seedlings. My room temp is approx 75/76F but my soil temps are much lower in the mid 60's most likely due to the fact that evaporation cools the soil. As much as I would like to leave it be, I feel as though I should be doing something about it. I've read that warmer soil temps would rectify the problem and allow for more P absorption. My bhut jolokia plant is about 1.5 months old and although it's starting on it it's 3rd set of true leaves it's only 1.5inches high. The stem is deep purple and the older leaves are a bit purple with the new ones showing purple veins. I feel as though I'm stunting it and I'd like to do something. Any suggestions would be great.
Currently have it under two-54w 6400K fluorescents on a 16/8 schedule. Distance from bulbs is approx 4-5 inches. I turn on a fan every once in a while to get some circulation.
Here's a link to several of the previous discussions of this question. You'll find all the details there. Just scroll down to the ones with the blue borders.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Bottom watering how-to
If your only choices are buying transplants grown by others or trying to direct seed tomatoes in the garden then by all means buy transplants. Direct seeding tomatoes seldom works well at all. They really need to be started indoors, under lights, 6-8 weeks prior to plant out time.
Check out the "How to Grow Tomatoes from Seed" FAQ over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here. I'd link it for you but the GW servers are running really slow right now.
Dave
You can winter sow tomato seeds and get very high germination rates along with amazingly hardy/healthy plants. Poke some drainage holes in a clean recycled gallon milk jug, cut it open & fill the bottom with moistened potting/growers mix. Sprinkle seeds over the surface of the growing mix and close the jug with tape or a twistie tie. Set the jug out on your deck or patio or near the house foundation (east side is best) and let Mother Nature take it from there. Once the seeds sprout, pot them up or plant them out.
Post here or check the Winter Sowing forum here on GardenWeb if you have questions.
If a plant germinates from old seed stock, does it affect the viability of the plant?
I can't speak directly to melons since I don't do any of them but as a general rule I haven't found that to be the case. The germination rate will fall off substantially with old seeds - depending on how old - but IME if the seed germinates it then grows normally.
I'm sure there are a few exceptions to that rule but off hand I don't know of any.
"Aren't thriving" how?
Dave
Thanks Dave! This was my take also. Of the few seeds that germinated, several died for no apparent reason when they were 2-3" tall & the remaining plants are demonstrating a very slow growth rate for a melon. This is my first try at growing Crenshaw from seed, so I may be missing something........
They will need to stay under the lights until you get them outside. If you take them out from under the lights, they will start to stretch out, get leggy and fall over from their weight.
Fun you are starting more! Be careful that you have enough room for mature plants under your lights.. they will get pretty big by the time May comes around. That is my frost date too and I have lots of things started. They are all living happily under my lights and will stay there until May 15th..ish
Have fun!! Ghost peppers! wow.. you like hot hot hot!!
Keriann~
Thanks again everyone for the help. I wanted to post pics of the progress but I'm not sure if I'm allowed or even how to. Everything is coming up great. Fingers crossed...Also just had my first two ghost peppers pop. Everything else is under the T5 light for about 16 hours a day.
My next dilemma, I want to prep my garden this weekend. What do you recommend mixing in compost wise? I have some tough soil with little rocks so I need a complete over haul. Any suggestion on levels, dirt, mixes to put in dirt, etc? Also, should I mix it different where the different vegetables will be located? Thanks!!
It looks like the cotyledons got a little damaged emerging from the seed coat. Unless the true leaves come up looking bad, I wouldn't worry about it.