6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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naturemitch(3/4 WI)

Indoors under regular shop lites.

We typically put up the portable greenhouse we have....but the peppers and tomatoes won't chance it out there until mid to late april....with a small heater if need be. Try earlier on your peppers, you won't be disappointed! We set out pepper plants about 10-12" tall, totally critical for so many of the varities we grow. This year we are trying about 23 varities:)

With the peppers experiencing some cool nites(45-50 degrees) before being set out permanently, it stimulates bud set, and we always have buds ready to go when they get in the ground. If we get a flower or two...off they come.

good luck!

    Bookmark     March 28, 2012 at 11:47PM
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momstar(5)

Status update:

I put the pansies on the patio under the awning just after I posted. It was warm for a few days (early morning sun) but then we had snow. They did great. But I know they are cool weather plants anyway so I figured they would be okay.

I will start to move the other hardy perennials out in the next few days. Again, on the patio under the awning. We are expected to stay above 40 until next week so I'll keep an eye and if it is getting too cold, pull them back in for a night or two.

The tender ones (plus peppers and tomatoes) will have to stay inside for another couple weeks. I have hoop houses on my raised beds but I've had disasterous results putting things out there too fast. I think the patio is going to be the best. And it is somewhat sheltered from the wind.

Most of the veggies I will direct sow in another 2-4 weeks in the hoop houses. That has worked extremely well other years.

I tried winter sowing last year with limited success. I can assure you it was operator error though.

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 5:40PM
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Hannzo24

I always start way too many seeds indoors than I know I'll have room for. I like it though, gives me plenty of options to choose the best plants for my beds and garden. Plus I can give away the leftover to friends and family.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 12:58PM
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Junglerott(Z6)

Got a 12 x 10 greenhouse and started soil blocking this year and I have enough plants to start a small farm. Approximately 2400 so far and I'm not done yet. I live in the city and have a 200 square foot garden. My plan is to sell the extras to raise money for my daughter's school. I just can't leave seeds in the package once they're opened. I am a germination addict.

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 5:28PM
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grassyfields

Thanks! So I should be ok with 2009 seeds?

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 12:29PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Yes, the seed is said to be viable 6-7 years (stored dry, not exposed to moisture or wildly fluctuating temps), although I haven't stored it that long myself...You could possibly get a lower percentage germination with 3 yr old seed but you should have sprouts - and most of us tend to sow more than we need anyway :).

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 1:22PM
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radiantpoppy(7)

Most seeds you don't want to plant too deep. Zinnia seeds are pretty big though. I would err on the side of a deeper planting of like an inch. I do this because the weight and compression of the dirt helps the newly growing seedling to pull its shell off. I'm sure that many of us have seen the ones that come up that still have darn thing attached. I hate to mess around with Mother Nature's gyrations, but I have been known to pull the capsule off of a seedling that came up with it's hat still firmly on. They often don't make it and it is nice to NOT have to do this. So yeah, given the size of zinnia seedlings, I would go ahead and plant them deep (for a seed).
Sweet pea sized seeds, sunflowers, and lupines: like 1&1/2 to 2 inches deep
Zinnia sized seeds: like 1 inch deep
Broccoli sized seeds: 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch
Coleus, Petunias and other tinies: I sow them on the surface and then cover with a layer of sand
Specials like Aquilegia (Columbines): surface sow because their shiny black hull absorbs and needs the sunlight

I like to sow deep because I really don't want to help them out of their coats.

    Bookmark     March 30, 2012 at 11:14AM
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msbatt

I've always been told that the rule of thumb for covering seeds is to cover them as deep as their own thickness. Thus, I barely cover zinnias, but I poke a knuckle-deep hole for moon vine seeds.

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 10:29AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

As I posted on your other post about this "The only "black sticky crud" I can think of was once a layer of green algae that has died. If that's it it should just lift off in pieces. "

T5 put out more light and more heat so they are used somewhat higher above the plants than are T12 and T8. The supposed ideal is 6-8" but that assume ideal conditions - which don't exist in real life so you have to experiment in your growing environment. Personally I find 4" to be good for most things but 3" is better IF you have adequate air circulation around the plants with fans.

Too close isn't going to hurt the plants except they dry out more quickly. Too far makes them leggy which you can't really fix so too close is better than too high. No seedlings are "skinny in the beginning". That is caused by lack of light and too hot growing ambience. So your lights are too high or your air temps are too hot or both.

3> Your choice. Some clip, most separate. Easy to do and can be done at any time from the cotyledon stage to first set of true leaves. Only difference is ease of handling.

I've read here (FAQs) and other places to fertilize seedlings soon after they sprout.

Not sure where you found that in the FAQs. The one on fertilizing talks about fertilizing "after transplanting" only, not after they sprout. Big difference!

The standard recommendation is well-diluted feedings every 7-10 days AFTER the plants develop their second set of true leaves.

I do want to be organic. I don't like the idea of fertilizers. My tomatoes and eggplants are heirloom. Peppers are new mexico varieties. I don't know if this makes a difference.

All plants need the nutrients supplied by fertilizers in some form. Heirloom or hybrid or variety makes no difference. They can't grow without them. So if you want to be organic just use one of the many organic fertilizers available. There are 100's of them.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 6:40PM
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Lesuko(5, Boulder CO)

Thanks Dave.

I work from home and look at my seedlings 3-4 times a day (I'm trying to cut back). I've never seen green algae. But, I did let the mix dry out and the black stuff is almost gone.

I moved my lights from 6" to 4". I realized not all my cells are the same size- something to remember for next year. It wasn't smart for watering from the bottom either.

I guess I need to get some fertilizer. It will be a while before the true leaves pop up, I'm assuming.

Thanks again.
Leslie

    Bookmark     April 3, 2012 at 4:48PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

You have to cut them apart - the flats are made to separate - and remove the ones that have sprouted. It is best to never mix varieties in the same container.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 1, 2012 at 7:37PM
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susan2010(6 Massachusetts)

I confess that I do not separate them out when this happens. I take them off the heating mat and uncover them. The rest sprout pretty quickly after. You are (were) only at day 4. If that were the case after two weeks, I might do things differently (maybe not). Even seeds of the same variety can vary in the time they take to germinate.

Maybe I'm just lazy, but this works for me. The less I fuss with my seeds, the better they seem to do.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2012 at 3:40PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I bought and Earthway seeder and it is a piece of junk imo.

Wow, why? What is it doing wrong? Perhaps it can be adjusted/fixed? I wouldn't be without mine. Does beautifully.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 5:36PM
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HealingHeartsFarm

Boy...where do I start on the Earthway? I am surprised to hear it works well for someone. I bought mine new. The seeds get stuck behind the seed plate. When the hopper gets low it doesn't pick up seed. Sometimes a seed will get jammed in the plate and it will go flying. When it does work, (not very often) it drops tons of seeds. Last year was the first year of working/ammending the soil. It pretty much requires very fine loam to even manage a straight line.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2012 at 11:25AM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

they like to germinate in cool temps, I think August would be too hot for them. I would start them now or in the fall.

This is directly from the T and M website:

Sow late winter/spring or late summer. Sow 1.5mm (1/16in) deep in good seed compost excluding light as darkness is beneficial. Germination usually takes 14-21 days at 19-24C (65-75F). Keep the soil just moist and avoid high temperatures which will prevent germination.

When seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant and grow cool. Gradually acclimatise to outdoor conditions for 10-15 days before planting out after all risk of frost, 23-30cm (9-12in) apart in most soils, sun or part shade.

Keriann~

    Bookmark     March 31, 2012 at 8:47AM
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nhardy(5b)

I wanting them for the late summer planting. I plan to germinate the seeds in the basement for the fall planting. I can put them on a lower shelf of my plant stand.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 10:53PM
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radiantpoppy(7)

I make an anti-mold tea by steeping a chamomile teabag and a couple of cloves of garlic that have been sliced in 2-3 cups of very hot water. Once the solution cools down I put it in a spray bottle and use it to soak the top of the soil after each watering. These two things both have natural fungicidal properties and I find that it gets rid of damp-off and white fuzzies very effectively. I keep the solution for up to 10 days in the refrigerator before brewing new.
I also coat the top of my seed-starting compost with a layer of sand because the sand is inert and doesn't support the fungus as well as the organic matter does. It also dries out completely between waterings and the dryness deters the fungus too.
These two methods combined keep my babies free of fungi.
Note: This is just my way of doing things, but you may find that it works for you too.

    Bookmark     March 30, 2012 at 10:16AM
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radiantpoppy(7)

BTW: All of the other advice on letting your soil get dry is REALLY good advice. This not only deters the fungus but makes your plants' root systems reach and grow. Just don't let the dirt dry out completely. It's easy enough to tell by color and appearance. I like to look at the soil color through the holes in the bottom of the pot rather than the top because the top has evaporation working with it too and the bottom is a better watering gauge because it doesn't have this issue. Watering from the bottom up by setting your babies in a shallow basin of water or filling the tray or saucer is a good way to water too. Use less water than you think you should and apply more often. Soil that isn't completely drenched is healthier and still has air pockets that the plants need to ensure rapid growth.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 12:52AM
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art33(6)

Try this place (link below). The number is C643

Art

Here is a link that might be useful: C643

    Bookmark     April 1, 2012 at 6:05PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Jelitto stocks the seed too...

Here is a link that might be useful: Jelitto penstemon

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 12:34AM
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Raci570

I don't know if I've created a problem for myself or not: I soaked the peas in a container for a little more than the recommended 24 hours to encourage germination. Well, almost all of them started to sprout -- especially when I drained the water and let them dry off a bit. I didn't want them getting water-logged or rotten. Now I've got more than I can plant in one or two planting sessions. Will the sprouted peas stay like that for up to a week or so until I can plant them, will the little sprouts coming out of them die and make planting futile, or is there someway I can put them in "suspended animation" until I can plant them (by putting them in the fridge, maybe?)

    Bookmark     April 1, 2012 at 7:03PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

No sorry but they will die when exposed to the air for any length of time. You can plant them in pots of potting mix and then transplant them later if you wish.

Normally, if you are going to pre-soak them then once soaked (and 24 hours is the maximum) you then take the container to the garden with you, drain them there and plant them immediately, not air dried.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 1, 2012 at 7:34PM
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CShark1(USDA 5)

I recently built a cold frame using a 4' x 4' Andersen window that I found on craigslist. It is tinted with the low-e glass. I have been tracking inside and outside temperatures to find the optimal performace range.

So far, the cool weather plants are germinating and doing well. I'm not sure how the tinting will affect them, but the low-e glass is performing better than I had hoped for. In addition, I've placed 7 one-gallon water containers inside to minimize temperature fluctuations. My data shows that the water does a better job preventing heat loss than preventing overheating. I have to vent the unit if day time temperatures hit the mid 60's.

    Bookmark     March 29, 2012 at 10:17PM
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gjcore(zone 5 Aurora Co)

I have non-tinted glass on my 2 coldframes. On a sunny day I need to vent when the outside temperature is 35F. Otherwise inside temps easily go up to 90F and probably beyond.

    Bookmark     March 30, 2012 at 10:48PM
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Trishcuit

Or as an alternative, start the tomatoes but buy the peppers since they take so much longer. A nice compromise.

* * *
Excellent middle ground. Peppers are slower than molasses in January.

    Bookmark     March 29, 2012 at 7:38PM
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radiantpoppy(7)

I usually have them started indoors by now but have opted not to do so this year. I will be planting mine in little pots outdoors. This at least gives them a good start away from all of the competition that Mother Nature likes to throw their way. Tomatoes, I am sure, will grow like crazy and I am not worried about them. It will be interesting to see what the peppers do. In my experience they are slower growers. It really depends though. Peppers aren't always slow. I don't know what the contributing factor is, but sometimes they decide to get into a higher gear and it is always a lovely sight when they do this. Yes. A weak liquid fertilizer at a very young age helps.

    Bookmark     March 30, 2012 at 9:48AM
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yukkuri_kame(Sunset 19 / USDA 9)

No, hybrid seeds will generally not breed true, but....

If you have a particular hybrid that you are absolutely are in love with, and assuming the seeds aren't sterile, it is possible to breed out the hybrid for several generations to create a new, stabilized open-pollinated variety (Which you can name after your favorite South Park character!) Select for similarity to the original F1 hybrid.

Larger plantings will ensure more genetic diversity in the new breed.

The link has a little more info, mostly towards the bottom of the page.

Here is a link that might be useful: http://howtosaveseeds.com/breeding.php

    Bookmark     March 27, 2012 at 3:54AM
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Trishcuit

(Which you can name after your favorite South Park character!)

***

Just don't call it Kenny because he dies all the time.

    Bookmark     March 29, 2012 at 7:37PM
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ifraser25(z11 Brazil)

What a wonderful idea. Sorry I can't help physically - a bit too far away. Let me contribute an idea, however.It is now spring in USA, right? So many growers and nurseries will be selling stuff. However there is always some surplus. Why don't you ask them to donate a tray of seedlings or anything for that matter? - Ian.

    Bookmark     March 28, 2012 at 11:06PM
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ontheteam(5a-6 (S.Eastern, MA))

Thanks ifraser25. We do have some local growers and nurseries that donate stuff..one Packard Farms in Brockton MA donates about $500.00 a week in plants of all kinds all month long...
But I lost a bunch of stuff that I grow here at home for the sale like heirloom tomatoes... to a frost.
We are getting known for heirloom tomatoes and well darn it the frost got them all...

those kinds of things you can not get from nurseries. But thank you for your support! It is appreiciated!

    Bookmark     March 29, 2012 at 2:55PM
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