6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Check out this discussion about them from over on the Plant Propagation forum. Buying 1 or 2 and then rooting cuttings from it is the easiest method for the home gardener.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow Dracaena
Strictly speaking this is not a cold frame as you use a heater. With both a heater and a fan you should not have any problems, but make sure you don't overdo it, the combination could dry the seedlings out very rapidly, especially if the area is small.In Arizona you will only need to use them on the coldest nights. During the day I would leave it open. - Ian
So the sun will not be too strong for the seedlings when they first emerge since I started them in the cold frame?
There really isn't anyway for us to know for sure since we don't know what your sun exposure is in your cold frame. Usually, no but you will have to watch them closely at first and any sign of sun scald or fast wilting etc. then you'll need to move or cover them with shade.
Right now, here, it is in the 80s in the day time so any seedlings in a cold frame in the direct sun here would quickly die. Even the greenhouse already has its 80% shadecloth on to reduce the temps and prevent sun scald. I'd suspect that your cold frame would have to be wide open all day right now.
Dave
replace your water probably.
de-clorinate the water before putting the seed pit, by letting the water stand for 24 hours. I was told chlorine will evaporate. Or if you are in a rush, use the dechlorinator for aquarium water.
good luck.
my avocado pits has not done any magic yet.
i have few of them in water too.
Angie
A weed? Slim chance.
I have never grown them but assuming you used a sterile soil-less potting mix the odds are 90% that what is growing is a germinated milkvine seed.
On the other hand IF you have kept it too wet and it's exposed to the air then tiny fungus that appear to be like mushroom can germinate on the soil surface.
Google Images has tons of pics of it in various stages but I couldn't find one of it when just germinated. Sorry.
Dave
it was sterile soil and pots. it isn'tgrowing in any other container so i assume that pot did not get too much water. i can't find any in google either. i will take pictures of this germinated seedmfungus and see where it goes. maybe it is miilkvine. i saved half the seeds to give them to a florida or georgia extension office if it is indeed a rare species. Thanks for replying Dave.
Hi there! Not sure if this post will even be checked because it has been a couple years since the last post but I am curious as to what was used to grow the tomatoes in the pic and what you possibly use at this time. What is the best and cheapest way to go I would LOVE to know. Thanks for any info. Jolene
I planted some of these this year too!
I have started Shasta from seed and gotten a few blooms the first year. The second year was full bloom. The third year I divided them. Did not need to plant more this year.
The Coneflower did not bloom at all the first year. The plants were very small. The second year I had a few blooms. This will be the third year and I hope they will be more prolific. Planted more from seed this year to fill in where the puppy dug them up.
Lupine and Canterbury Bells this year from seed. The Lupine are growing huge. Somewhere I read they could (hope) bloom this year. The Canterbury Bells were planted at the same time and they are tiny. Unless they make a serious sprint here soon, they won't bloom this year for sure.
Holly Hocks are supposed to be biannual but I had a few bloom the first year.
Hi Higgsr1,
I read your post about your impatients. I've found them to be super easy to grow even in WI. It sounds like you're doing everything right. Perhaps the seeds are old, or they have somehow been frozen. It's hard to know. I'd suggest re-planting the seeds. Yea it's allot of work but it's worth it. Just put the seeds in the existing pots. Yea, you'll never know which onesare beginning to grow, the old or new. Better that then not haveing any impatients. Let me know how it turns out
I don't understand why so many gardeners make growing tomatoes from seed so complicated. Any regular growing or potting mix works fine for starting tomato seeds. I always use a bark based mix for everything. I have at least a hundred plastic sixpack containers I have saved over the years and use them over and over. It only takes three weeks at 70 to 75 degrees to grow enough with good light, to transplant into four inch plastic pots, and off the heat. From there to the garden a month later, well rooted. Al
Not touching but as close as you can get them withOUT touching.
Feeding - lots of discussions here about this you can read through. For the most part seedlings don't need feeding. Definitely don't need it until after their second set of true leaves develop.
That varies depending on what you are growing them in mix-wise, container size, how long before they can be transplanted to their final growing place, etc. Most transplant their seedlings at the first true leaf stage out of the seeding starting mix into a growing mix and most of them contain some fertilizer already.
But if you plan to feed them then any liquid of your choice - hundreds available - diluted to 1/4 to 1/2 strength max. weekly is the common recommendation.
Dave
Congratulations and kudos!! I do believe you may be the first person to successfully harvest/sow/grow D. spectabilis from seed. I checked my D. spectabilis 'Alba' for seedpods last year but was unsuccessful when looking for any that were ripe. Did you harvest the seedpods right when they fell from the plant stems or while they were still attached & green? Do please describe your strategy so that others may attempt to learn from your success.
I'm pretty sure some people on Winter Sowing have done this. Also I think several people have said they get self sowers. Anyhow, I just watched the pods very carefully and put small paper bags on them when they looked as if they would soon split open. I caught the seeds and just sowed them shallowly in some commercial seed compost in a pot which I then left outside in my garden for the rest of the year. No fancy techniques.
There are all kinds of sizes of plastic cups available. They range from small 3 oz to 6 oz to 9 oz to 12 oz to the big 16 oz size. That's why I mentioned "small" plastic cups. I sure hope those in your picture aren't the 16 oz big ones for those tiny little plants? If you have to use the big cups for some reason you only fill them 1/2 full and then add more as the plant grows. You put holes in the bottom, right?
I had thought about using the mix that I used for my sfg (1/3 verm, 1/3 peat, 1/3 compost) but maybe I can find something at lowes or wally world that would work already mixed up and is soil-less.
Seed starting is most successful with a sterile soil-less mix and both Lowes and Walmart sell several different brands of it. Plain old cheap Jiffy Seed Starting Mix at $4 a bag works fine.
On the videos I had watched some of his videos a while ago the dense planting looked like something I might try next year :)
His how to transplant video is the one I was referring to so be sure to watch it when you get a chance.
Good luck with your plants. You'll know within 24 hours if they are going to make it or not.
Dave
Well they still seem alive :) and actually i used the 18oz cups lol and filled them up to the top before I saw your reply. But i did drill the holes at the bottom. So I guess we will see what happens lol I ended up getting a seed starting mix from wally and it was very light weight stuff so the roots should have no problems growing in it. Thanks for all the help. Next year I will be doing a lot different ;) its a learning process for me hehe
If you're in a frost free area of CA, planting lettuce and other greens in containers outdoors in partial shade might be easier. Or try both and compare the results as a personal science experiment. Onions, carrots and garlic should be planted in the place where you want them to grow, they do better without transplanting in my experience. Especially carrots.
As for watering, most here water from the bottom (discard any standing water in the trays that is not absorbed in a reasonable time). I water from the top and have no problems with damping off, but some do. As for when and how much to water, I use the weight of the container to judge if it needs water. It takes a little practice, but once you can judge the weight of a container with sufficient water vs. the lesser weight of one that needs water, you won't be fooled into over watering based on how things appear on the surface.