6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

A weed? Slim chance.

I have never grown them but assuming you used a sterile soil-less potting mix the odds are 90% that what is growing is a germinated milkvine seed.

On the other hand IF you have kept it too wet and it's exposed to the air then tiny fungus that appear to be like mushroom can germinate on the soil surface.

Google Images has tons of pics of it in various stages but I couldn't find one of it when just germinated. Sorry.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 17, 2012 at 9:34AM
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leann2800(z8 GA)

it was sterile soil and pots. it isn'tgrowing in any other container so i assume that pot did not get too much water. i can't find any in google either. i will take pictures of this germinated seedmfungus and see where it goes. maybe it is miilkvine. i saved half the seeds to give them to a florida or georgia extension office if it is indeed a rare species. Thanks for replying Dave.

    Bookmark     March 17, 2012 at 11:12AM
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zen_man

Hi Kevinitis,

Thanks for the URLs for mycorrhizae products. I bookmarked them for future reference as possible soil amendment sources.

ZM

    Bookmark     March 13, 2012 at 7:51PM
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carino2010(8)

Now I am really confused. Guess I will just go with what Zenman said in his original post because the soil in the photo is such that I just cant wait to get my hands in it. ProMix with Perlite is what I will use to start my seeds.

Thank you.

    Bookmark     March 17, 2012 at 9:55AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

I have sandpaper fastened to two wood blocks and roll the seeds between them CAREFULLY. The amount of sanding will vary widely with different seeds. Al

    Bookmark     March 17, 2012 at 8:08AM
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wordwiz

Here's what the tomato seedling look a bit after three weeks.

None of the plants are over two inches tall!

Mike

    Bookmark     November 10, 2010 at 7:26PM
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jolenegardens

Hi there! Not sure if this post will even be checked because it has been a couple years since the last post but I am curious as to what was used to grow the tomatoes in the pic and what you possibly use at this time. What is the best and cheapest way to go I would LOVE to know. Thanks for any info. Jolene

    Bookmark     March 16, 2012 at 9:41PM
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bosewichte(7a/8b)

Thanks so much, everyone! NHARDY, I will absolutely take your advice.

    Bookmark     March 14, 2012 at 10:14AM
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momstar(5)

I planted some of these this year too!

I have started Shasta from seed and gotten a few blooms the first year. The second year was full bloom. The third year I divided them. Did not need to plant more this year.

The Coneflower did not bloom at all the first year. The plants were very small. The second year I had a few blooms. This will be the third year and I hope they will be more prolific. Planted more from seed this year to fill in where the puppy dug them up.

Lupine and Canterbury Bells this year from seed. The Lupine are growing huge. Somewhere I read they could (hope) bloom this year. The Canterbury Bells were planted at the same time and they are tiny. Unless they make a serious sprint here soon, they won't bloom this year for sure.

Holly Hocks are supposed to be biannual but I had a few bloom the first year.

    Bookmark     March 16, 2012 at 12:56PM
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Sandylad(5)

Hi Higgsr1,
I read your post about your impatients. I've found them to be super easy to grow even in WI. It sounds like you're doing everything right. Perhaps the seeds are old, or they have somehow been frozen. It's hard to know. I'd suggest re-planting the seeds. Yea it's allot of work but it's worth it. Just put the seeds in the existing pots. Yea, you'll never know which onesare beginning to grow, the old or new. Better that then not haveing any impatients. Let me know how it turns out

    Bookmark     March 15, 2012 at 9:50AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

I don't understand why so many gardeners make growing tomatoes from seed so complicated. Any regular growing or potting mix works fine for starting tomato seeds. I always use a bark based mix for everything. I have at least a hundred plastic sixpack containers I have saved over the years and use them over and over. It only takes three weeks at 70 to 75 degrees to grow enough with good light, to transplant into four inch plastic pots, and off the heat. From there to the garden a month later, well rooted. Al

    Bookmark     March 16, 2012 at 10:07AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Not touching but as close as you can get them withOUT touching.

Feeding - lots of discussions here about this you can read through. For the most part seedlings don't need feeding. Definitely don't need it until after their second set of true leaves develop.

That varies depending on what you are growing them in mix-wise, container size, how long before they can be transplanted to their final growing place, etc. Most transplant their seedlings at the first true leaf stage out of the seeding starting mix into a growing mix and most of them contain some fertilizer already.

But if you plan to feed them then any liquid of your choice - hundreds available - diluted to 1/4 to 1/2 strength max. weekly is the common recommendation.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 15, 2012 at 8:18PM
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gardenweed_z6a

Congratulations and kudos!! I do believe you may be the first person to successfully harvest/sow/grow D. spectabilis from seed. I checked my D. spectabilis 'Alba' for seedpods last year but was unsuccessful when looking for any that were ripe. Did you harvest the seedpods right when they fell from the plant stems or while they were still attached & green? Do please describe your strategy so that others may attempt to learn from your success.

    Bookmark     March 14, 2012 at 6:03PM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

I'm pretty sure some people on Winter Sowing have done this. Also I think several people have said they get self sowers. Anyhow, I just watched the pods very carefully and put small paper bags on them when they looked as if they would soon split open. I caught the seeds and just sowed them shallowly in some commercial seed compost in a pot which I then left outside in my garden for the rest of the year. No fancy techniques.

    Bookmark     March 15, 2012 at 2:14PM
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Bill1897

Thank you for reposting my original post! This post can now be deleted. Thanks again! ;-)

    Bookmark     March 14, 2012 at 10:32PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

It wasn't deleted. It was there all the time.

You were just looking at a page from your computer cache. In the future all you have to do is refresh your page and you can see it.

    Bookmark     March 15, 2012 at 9:57AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

There are all kinds of sizes of plastic cups available. They range from small 3 oz to 6 oz to 9 oz to 12 oz to the big 16 oz size. That's why I mentioned "small" plastic cups. I sure hope those in your picture aren't the 16 oz big ones for those tiny little plants? If you have to use the big cups for some reason you only fill them 1/2 full and then add more as the plant grows. You put holes in the bottom, right?

I had thought about using the mix that I used for my sfg (1/3 verm, 1/3 peat, 1/3 compost) but maybe I can find something at lowes or wally world that would work already mixed up and is soil-less.

Seed starting is most successful with a sterile soil-less mix and both Lowes and Walmart sell several different brands of it. Plain old cheap Jiffy Seed Starting Mix at $4 a bag works fine.

On the videos I had watched some of his videos a while ago the dense planting looked like something I might try next year :)

His how to transplant video is the one I was referring to so be sure to watch it when you get a chance.

Good luck with your plants. You'll know within 24 hours if they are going to make it or not.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 14, 2012 at 9:52AM
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bhoneycutt

Well they still seem alive :) and actually i used the 18oz cups lol and filled them up to the top before I saw your reply. But i did drill the holes at the bottom. So I guess we will see what happens lol I ended up getting a seed starting mix from wally and it was very light weight stuff so the roots should have no problems growing in it. Thanks for all the help. Next year I will be doing a lot different ;) its a learning process for me hehe

    Bookmark     March 14, 2012 at 8:01PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Should I remove the ground up leaves and sow the seeds directly on the soil

Yes, just rake it back. Otherwise germination will be quite limited. Once they sprout you can gently rake it back in place to use as a mulch to help retain soil moisture.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 14, 2012 at 2:53PM
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arrowleaf(z6 NJ)

So maybe I was panicking over nothing; I was afraid they were ruined. I will definitely remove the lids now, and give them some air, and poke the holes, too. Why do the directions say cover with lid till they emerge if that causes mold? It seems more logical that they need the air circulation.
Thanks John!

    Bookmark     March 13, 2012 at 9:54PM
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art33(6)

If you know that you can keep the soil from drying out without using the domes, I think you're actually better off not using them. This would be possible for folks who are home all the time and who are not trying to germinate a lot of seeds at once. On the other hand, lots of trays would be hard to watch that close and impossible for working folks who are gone all day.

    Bookmark     March 13, 2012 at 11:10PM
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apr522

Wonderful news Al! Thanks for the positive feedback on paper pots. Many people seem to be posting that they are more difficult and result in yellowing but I don't actually think it is the pot that is the problem, sounds like overwatering to me.
So I am going to try the bottom watering method from here on. My tomatoes all sprouted today (day 5 of germination seemed quick to me) so I am very excited and hoping that this next stage goes as well as the germination stage seemed to for my little seedlings.

    Bookmark     March 8, 2012 at 1:38PM
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robertpummer

I have great success with paper pots and use the crowded in container, bottom watering system ...

Here is a link that might be useful: Starting Seeds Indoors

    Bookmark     March 13, 2012 at 5:26PM
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plantsforever(zone 6)

Thanks Dave and noinwi

I'll check out those links.

Appreciate your help.

    Bookmark     March 13, 2012 at 1:24PM
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robertpummer

Take the dome off after you get sprouts. Remember, moist, not wet ... use a small fan on low to help harden your plants ...

Here is a link that might be useful: Starting Seeds Indoors

    Bookmark     March 13, 2012 at 5:15PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Leggy plants are also caused by too warm growing conditions in addition to the lighting issue. 60-65 is the ideal once germinated.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 11, 2012 at 6:24PM
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mandolls(4)

Peat "pots" - are not nearly the problem of peat "pellets". With peat pots, you are filling them with a mix of some sort, if you are using a decent soil-less mix, you shouldnt have a problem. People often use the wrong word when referring to the little expanding Jiffy pellets that all of the big box stores sell now - they are the problem.

    Bookmark     March 12, 2012 at 7:53AM
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