6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

I agree with mandolls. They look good!

I would bottom water (search on here for lots of advice and tips on that) and get the lights 1-2" away!

Have fun!

Keriann~

Thanks guys. I watered them more and after a couple of days they are looking better. The true leaves are starting to come out.

Same here - Ferry Morse seeds are my preference by far over Burpee. Price differences aside, there are just as many, if not more, complaints about Burpee seeds on garden watchdog sites than about F-M.

Stray seeds in a packet leading to a different plant is possible with any seed company but it is difficult to blame not germinating or germinating but not fruiting on the seed itself. Those are grower-caused issues for the most part.

Dave

I agree with Dave. I started using Ferry-Morse seeds quite a while ago and am very satisfied with the results I've had. I've quit using Burpee for the most part. I have used American seeds and haven't really been disappointed with them. Maybe I've been lucky or maybe I've just been doing things right for ... years. We won't discuss how many. I also like using seeds I've gotten in trades.

Thank ya! Indeed it does work! Bought a new digital Therm this year (for my heat mats), so I had to build a "germination station" because my heated shop wasn't cutting it..... Houses 4 mats nicely. $50 bucks, if ya include the duct tape! ;)

Wow!

Dave, thanks for the links, and pardon my possible error, but I do not find the tall bags I am looking for on either of those links. I don't need the most common sizes; I need TALL bags, like a Pringles can but a little wider so the tap roots have room to grow. If they sell what I'm looking for, please give me specific directions.

Thanks,
John

Well there is Tubex http://www.arborday.org/shopping/trees/TreeDetail.cfm?ID=271

and Rootmaker http://www.arborday.org/shopping/trees/TreeDetail.cfm?ID=269

but they are quite a bit more expensive. The easiest and least costly I know of are the ones I linked above. You just roll them into a tube of whatever size you want depending on the size of your cuttings, stand it up, separate the sides into one chamber with a bottom, and fill 1 chamber of the tube. For example the 1 gallon bags are 10" tall so rolled in 1/2 you end up with 3" in diameter, 10" tall tube.

You can also make your own rooting tubes out of any 3-4mil thick roll of plastic. Just cut a piece in the dimensions you want (height x finished diameter), turn it into a tube, overlap and tape the edges with duct tape, fold in the bottom like and envelope to seal it off, and melt in drain holes with any hot metal object - I use a soldering iron.

Hope this helps.

Dave

The alternative method of thinning is snipping. Small sharp point scissors used to snip off the excess plants at the soil line.

Dave

If the seeds were planted in peat based seed starting mix, the sooner they get out of it the better. Al

I set up a basic strawbale frame with plexiglass and it melted the snow and warmed about the top 1 1/2 inch soil up but it is still frozen below that do I need to wait untill the ground is totally thawed to plant this is my first time I plan on spinach arugla and the other hardy greens and in a few weeks setting my trays of brocali and cabbage out in a frame to grow. Do you direct sow your beets and swiss chard? thanks

Totally thawed, no but you'll need more than 1 1/2". Wait a bit or heat the soil more. Direct sow beets and chard? Yes, especially beets. Like most root crops, they don't tolerate transplanting at all well.

Dave

Hi All ;

There are a few of these seed searches on the net, one at Mother Earth New also. But try this one at:

www.seed-finder.com

It works like a seed search should. Let's you search by city, state, region, country, and also GMO-Free if you prefer. I was impressed with the results, found a few different seeds that I was looking for a long time.

BR
Cresard

Here is a link that might be useful: Ultimate Seed Finder.

Man those Phlox Isabellina are becoming like a unicorn to find.

yea I posted the same question in another forum and they told me.. Kinda bummed about it now I am wondering how they will turn out.

Thank you!

The ones I have came Pretty close to the parent from seed.
There are no other roses near by to cross with. SO they should be really close. Jessica, If you like I can do some cutting for you. PM me and lets talk. Its worth a try from seed. I love the ones I got. They were volentears ! I cannot tell them from the parent plant.

Oasis Horticubes are made from a low density foam with rock wool added as a binding agent. The issues are the same as with any rock wool product. The FAQ and product info sheet on their website make it very clear that they are for hydroponic use only.

Similar foam plugs but with out the rock wool component are sold by a couple of other brands - Reddi Rooter is one that comes to mind and the Biodome plugs are another. And the problems they all share in common (several discussions here about them) are (1) how rapidly they dry out if not kept consistently wet and (2) their inability or decompose once transplanted into soil and the resultant root stunting that causes and (3) their lower germination rate. Others have reported pulling up dead plants only to find the foam plug dry and hard even though buried in wet soil.

As already mentioned by not potting up the seedlings are missing a necessary trigger in their growth cycle. But the easiest way to double or triple your production numbers and still use existing space is like commercial growers do it. Just full-seed a 1020 tray (one with holes) and then prick and transplant once they begin to develop true leaves. You can do 200 plants in one 1020 tray and 2" of seedling mix. We do hundreds of different flowers and vegetables that way in the greenhouse every year - including petunia.

Otherwise all I can suggest is order some and give them a try. See if they will work for you.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: one of the foam plug discussions

For several years I have been using a product called "Rootrainers". They are in a unit of 32,1&1/2 x 5 inch deep cells which open for easy seedling removal. Regular seed starting or potting mix may be used depending on what you are growing. They may be used up to 10 times before falling apart. Cost is about $18 and is available with or without plastic domes. I have bought them from Lee Valley and Charlies Greenhouse. Al

Thanks!

For me it occasionally happens because the dry ambient air causes some of the tomato and pepper seed shells to dry and harden before they have a chance to fall off. They annoy me so I remove them. Don't pull or tug them. Carefully using a small needle-nose pliers to gently squeeze the shell on the ends causes them to expand like a clam shell and pop off. Easy to do although not absolutely necessary, but I like to give the babies their best chance at success.

photopilot,

There are online sources that sell in small quantities, like The Sample Seed Shop, but I haven't had any experience with them.

In addition to the sources that Dave listed (I always look at what Johnny's Seeds and Harris seeds have to offer) I get seeds from Burpees, Stokes, and Parks. I also purchase from Hazzards, but they sell in larger packets and you are looking for smaller packets. Hazzards does have a very wide selection, though. Burpee's seeds are somewhat higher priced, but Burpee has some exclusives that, to me, "are worth it", with seedless tomatoes being a prime example. I buy from The Burpee Seed Company every year, and have done so for many years.

Some seeds naturally last a long time and others don't stay viable for very long. Here is a Table of Seed Longevity to serve as a guide for when you need to buy fresh seed.

ZM
(not associated with any product or vendor mentioned or linked)

Artistic Gardens sells sample pkgs for .40 each.

Here is a link that might be useful: Artistic Gardens