6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Rhizo_1 - When you use the seed flat do you use a standard Seed Starting mix or do you start seeds with paper towles or some other trick?
I use Calistoga's method but once they are hearty enough to transplant I separate them out.
It sounds like everyone in this post is doing some type commercial production but myself I am only growing a few at a time for my garden and the extra's go to family.
Well you can increase actual germination rates, especially for tomatoes, with a seedling heat mat or any other source of bottom heat that you can come up with. Works with rock wool too just as with potting mix. Need a soil temp of 75-80 for germination. Then remove from the heat as soon as they germinate.
The leafy greens like lettuce don't really need it but will also benefit from it and germinate faster. But they only need 70 degrees.
Once germinated are you having trouble keeping the seedlings alive?
Dave
Are you talking about rock wool cubes? Many brands and "Hydro Cubes" is one brand of them.
If so they are used in hydroponic set ups - either wick or drip or capillary matting set-ups and are watered by whichever hydro system you use. They are not used in soil set-ups.
The water used on them has to have its pH adjusted before use down to 5.5 pH so in that aspect alone they are quite different and more work than peat pellets.
Lights used etc. isn't any different. Size of the cubes varies greatly so how they would compare to peat pellets would depend on which size you used.
But the biggest issue is if you would be transplanting your seedlings to soil then they don't work well. They do not break down in soil when buried and since most of the roots are embedded in the rock wool further root development can be stunted. They are intended to be transplanted to larger hydro cubes and then to blocks and then to slabs.
If peat pellets work for you, stick with them for best results.
Dave
I think it would depend on how badly they were frozen. Many people get volunteer squash plants in their compost piles. You could always do a germination test if you have plenty of seeds. Put a few between damp paper towels in a baggie, set them in a warm spot(like on the fridge)and see if they sprout. It should only take a few days to find out.
Well, I wouldn't say getting somewhere fast :)
I don't have any information in any of my propagation books for this seed. One would think from the size that nicking and soaking might be beneficial, but an online search doesn't turn up information that indicates that. Very little is available in way of germination suggestions that I find, other than sow @ 2 cm deep, and germination rate is typically somewhat low. I dont know how active the tropicals forum is, have you looked there?
yeah admittedly i probably jumped the gun myself here in virginia...i started tomatoes and peppers on seed warmer in garage yesterday...
this is my first time starting from seed, so i wanted to get an early start in case i mess it up i still have some time to try again. that and i just got real anxious
Mine also seemed to do better when I planted them in the fall but did not sprout until our spring weather kicked in. I have to keep planting just in case they do not come back the following year due to our hot summers. I still have some seeds if you would like a few. Just send me an email.
I have grown them a couple of times from purchased seed. Both the standard purple and the White Swan I didnt soak or cold stratify them. I began them in March, in flats under lights and planted them out in the late spring. They remained fairly small and didnt flower the first year, but came up huge and strong the following year and bloomed like crazy.
Think I've made an error!! I didn't get them under the lights soon enough - so the early sprouters are fragile little stems 2 (3?!?) inches above the sponge before the sprout leaves - forget about true leaves! Shoot!
I think not being covered by soil or anything else meant they were effected by distant lights as soon as they cracked open the shell! the later developing ones seems more reasonable.
This means I'll have to transplant them earlier than expected, and into larger containers than expected so I can bury some of that long stem......harumph....so far, non triumphant, bill and ted!!!
My other user error - I thought - I have lights. BUT - what I have is lights for my warm season seed starting...to give them the light they need, is putting them into warmer tempt than I want them to get used to....
I can't believe it hadn't dawned on me that I need to set a completely separate light set up in a different temperature setting in the house - duh! i says to myself....
They seem to be popping up everywhere these days. I even see them at the dollar stores. Check all the big box hardware stores in your area and Walmart, Kmart, etc. Places like Farm&Fleet too if you have those in your area. Don't forget local nurseries. You may have to wait a few more weeks before most stores are stocking them. Also try online gardening supplies or online sites of the above stores. HTH
Soil heat is used only for germination. Once the seeds germinate the warmed soil can quickly cook the tiny seedlings, especially roots.
For growing-on cooler air temperatures are recommended. 60-65 degrees is recommended.
Dave
optimal temp for tomatoes is 70-75 degrees, with 65-85 being the good range (from jeavons "how to grow more veg")
I wouldn't want to put young plants at 50 degrees, although at the end of the season, old timers can take it, and the soil is probably still warmer than that.
In zone 4, you'll be waiting a long time to put them out. Here in zone 5 april is a no no for tomatoes without protections.
If you can provide a little heat to them in the garage till whatever your plant out date is, that might work if they have enough light. I'd try to keep them at a minimum of 60, but I'd aim for about 65-68, unless you want them to grow a little more, then 70 would likely have them growing at the expected rate, a bit cooler would slow them down.
Thanks digdirt for that link which should answer any questions about heat mats. I did an experiment recently with my pots on a heat mat. With overnight air temperatures dropping into the mid 40 degree range, I took the soil temperature of four inch and one gallon pots to see the soil temperature with the heat mat at 70 degrees. In every test the soil temperature was within 2 or 3 degrees of 70 degrees. Al
Thanks for all the great input! Very helpful!
I really like the Pipe Pot idea!
Thanks!!
Something cheap and easy to use for small pots are disposable plastic cups from the dollar store. Clear ones will last a year and colored ones last a few years. I stack them and run the tip of a hot soldering iron through the bottom to melt drainage holes. Using anything else to punch drainage holes results in cracked cups.