6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Actually, "moist" we've got, it's the winter rainy season. I haven't had to water my back yard in weeks. But "chill", not so much, I think we're still running in the 70s.

Do you think water crystals would work as my sterile medium?

I don't know, really - no experience there. I've only seen them used as a soil additive for plants with roots.

INDEN... SOAK SEED IN ACID FOR 10-15 MIN THEN IN WATER FOR 1-2 DAYS THEN STORE AT 40f FOR 3 MONTHS..... LIGHTLY COVER THE SEED SOIL TEMP 57-78f TAKES 14 TO 35 DAYS TO GERMINATE MAY TAKE LONGER
kct ... SOAK IN ACID 2-4 HOURS THEN LIGHTLY COVER SEED SOIL TEMP 65-70f TAKING 30-90 DAYS TO GERMINATE
i USE BATTERY ACID

I've had success with Kentucky Coffee Tree germination by scarifying the seed coat with a Dremel. I planted 3 non-scarified and 3 Dremel scarified seeds and the 3 scarified seeds all germinated while none of the non-scarified ones did. This will be the first winter they go through, so we shall see if they make it!

You could try some foxglove and columbine seeds.

I'd also put some spring bulbs in there, for sure. :)

Just came across your old post when searching for info on growing astilbe from seed... I am curious as to what you decided to do and what the area looks like now,a year and a half later.

I must say your honeysuckle seems to be the alien invasive Amur honeysuckle, an insidious shrub that unfortunately bordered the rear flowerbeds in my backyard when we moved here 3 years ago. This year I finally persuaded my neighbor to cut them all down, so I only should have to do battle (in my vegetable AND flower beds AND the lawn) for another few years with the germinating seeds pooped out by the birds from thousands of "yummy" red berries all over my 1.3 acres.
In addition to the 5-6 full-grown honeysuckles along the property line, there were about a dozen of these monsters on our property that the previous occupants had kept pruned back into low (4-6') bushes. I cut every single one to the ground and carefully painted each remaining stump-end with a good, strong shrub-killer (the only time in my 40+ years as an organic gardener I ever have resorted to an herbicide--just shows you how much I detest honeysuckle). I laboriously dug out half of them a month or so later, but found by waiting another year, the other roots gave me less of a battle as they had partially rotted.
I think you would have a much nicer little garden spot if you were to remove the honeysuckle and instead plant a nice little native tree such as a redbud or dogwood. This would still provide some dappled shade and any bulbs or perennials (or part-shade-tolerant annuals) would thrive as opposed to a few plants merely surviving, which is, I am certain, all you would have as things are.

Please post a new photo if you have one!

I have some lettuce seeds in a purchased seed starting mix w/o fertilizer. I'm wondering when to start fertilizing. Mandolls stated above that "The seeds themselves have enough food to get things rolling." My question is how long do the seeds' nutrients last? Thanks.

You don't give a clue where you live and garden. Starting lettuce in a packaged mix makes me think you are planning to grow to harvest in a container. If that is the case I would not fertilize until the shoots were about 2 inches high, and use a dissolved liquid about 9-3-6 which is about what the plant can use. Lettuce needs to grow fast with no check in the growth. You would get more response by starting your own post. Al

Thanks, Art.

I took the advice after see the following posted on a couple of hydroponic sites:

"Do I need to soak my Rapid Rooter plugs?

Answer: For optimal results soak Rapid Rooter plugs in pure water with a light blooming formula (200ppm or 0.4mS), then place back in tray and follow procedure for cuttings or sees. "

And then I used this online concentration calculator:

http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/ccconc.htm

Not sure if i got it right, but thankfully there must be a margin of error because my seedlings are thriving. It's been only four days, and the lettuce is just over a half-inch tall, and I can see the spinach seeds cracking open. One spinach is even showing green.

They may have suggested a "blooming formula" because it would be fairly high in phosphorous (aids in root development). But 200 ppm of phosphorous would probably require a couple of tablespoons per gallon when using a 0-5-4 formula. Also, of course, you'll have to start using some fertilizer that contains nitrogen or you will soon have yellow lettuce :-)

Good luck with your first time germinating seeds Kenny, looks like you're off to a good start. As I've mentioned I only grow flowers, but I love watching the miracle of seed germination.

Art

Mine did well sowed in place in late March or early April. Lasted until late July.

If you are like me. I thought I had the same problems, found out it germinated, but the slugs made it disappear as soon as it came up. I can start it in pots but it is impossible in the garden.

I have grown a number of pineapple from tops in my aquaponic system. From all the research I have done, I have found that pineapples can take at least 20 years to mature and fruit. This can take even longer in colder climates. I am very impressed with how beautiful your plant is growing however! Have you grown any of these plants in the past? Did they fruit well?

Here is a link that might be useful: Here is a really helpful link for pineapples

calistoga, he just wanted to show off! :)

Also, your baby tangerines look like they need a little more light.

And I'm drooling at the apple. I want to try a Prunus specimen now!

Thanks Jeanne. I did get some dried seed pods from a friend last year and started a few but would like to start more. I have seen pictures of the flowers, beautiful! These trees have not only nice, fragrant flowers but nicely shaped and coloured foliage, I'm a foliage person. I've managed to collect about 20 seed pods so hopefully one will be good to use. Marg

I observed some seed will germinate almost immediately when quite fresh. I don't know about norther catalpa but you might find it interesting to take a few seed, nick or scratch them and plant them right now.

Ginny, the following is a quote from http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-germinate-poppy-seeds

"Poppy seeds are relatively sensitive to temperature. Poppy seeds will germinate in temperatures of about 60 to 68 degrees F during the daytime. Nighttime temperatures should average between 38 and 45 degrees. If temperatures are much colder or warmer than this, it will result in poor germination and loss of seeds."

Hope this helps,

Art

I have a greenhouse with a 70 degree heatpad that I use for starting cuttings and seeds that ask for that temperature. For poppy seeds and lots of other native seeds, they start better if I start them outside the greenhouse with only the temperature nature provides. One of the advantages of living in coastal California, is the lack of temperature extremes. Al