6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
With annuals that have yet to flower, if i cont to keep pinching them back and cut off any buds, will this give me stronger plants if i manage to overwinter and they survive? Many of them have had a sudden spout of energy and its nearly september now so it quite late in the year. Im thinking to prevent the flowering stage until after last frost so the plant will stil need to bloom to carry on its life stages. Am i right or is this a bad concept?
Aha - I have just realised where you live.
The following are hardy annuals or biennials and can overwinter outdoors in the UK: aster, snapdragon, sunflower, poppy, larkspur and viola. However, they will need good drainage and protection from slugs and snails. The dahlia, lobelia and impatiens will die with the first frost. Personally I would not bother to bring them inside as they are highly unlikely to make it through the winter in the house. If you have a greenhouse with above freezing temps they might live over. The shrubs and perennials will be fine and need no help to overwinter. The Fuchsia might die depending on whether it is a hardy variety or not.
It sounds as if you need a good basic book on gardening in the UK. The sweet peas, for example, would have been best sown indoors in late winter. All should be in the ground by now, not in pots, and that may well be part of your problem. You have quite a mixture of plants there some of which need quite different conditions so I'd recommend looking them up. Also some are very easy eg Euonymous fortuneii and some are quite tricky eg Rodgersia. Advice from the US, while sometimes helpful, is often from people unfamiliar with our kind of climate. The whole zone concept means very little in the UK. Theoretically we are in z 8/9 but it doesn't mean much as we do not get the highs and lows of US zones 8/9.
The link is to an article on sowing hardy annuals. You need to look down the page.
Here is a link that might be useful: When to sow annuals
One point not made here, only relative to those planting in the garden or in containers, in the garden. When sowing sweet peas, it is wise to bait for slugs at the same time. I have seen gardeners complain their seeds never germinated, when in fact the slugs ate them as they broke ground. Al
May I suggest you do a bit of research before planting your seeds. Most coniferous tree seeds need "stratification" before they will germinate. This can be accomplished easily at home by placing the seeds in a small plastic bag (so they won't dry out too much) and putting the bag in the refrigerator for a couple of months
Seeds can be killed by excess heat. All that was needed was for you put them in a brown paper bag left open and let them dry naturally. There is normally two seeds per hull. I always have several bags of different seeds, in the house drying at this time of year. My wife is not happy with that, but she tolerates it. Al
grew a seedling from seed, guess i am lucky, did not follow instructions online, just ate my apricot and then planted the seed, but first removed the outside pit, forgot to water the darn thing and it nearly died, have it going again, just been watering it, should i do something more?
Ordered online a package of Dinner Plate Hibiscus seeds and I popped ONE seed into a pot and within days, it sprouted! Thinking all my hopes were put into this one seedling... what if something happens to it?
So I planted some four more seeds and this time nothing happened as quickly with all (4). Looked up online how slow the seeds are to germinate, I am amazed at how lucky I was the first time!
Here is a link that might be useful: Pea Soup Designs, Hibiscus
Fairfaxwatch
Are you starting these seeds the same time of year? This time of year the window may be cooking your seeds.
I believe I cooked my second round of pottings by putting them in baggies. The difference was the height of the sun and the temp of the place I put the pots.
I actually want to ask the same question. I just got some seeds. I know they are perennial. But if I sow the seeds now, will the seedlings survive the winter?
Here is a link that might be useful: vegetable gardening tips
laagarden, Papaver orientale is perennial, established plants come back from the roots each year. They often go dormant in summer heat, send out a flush a new growth as weather begins to cool in Fall so I hope you planned for that seasonal 'bare space' when siting yours.
Sara, our seasonal die back and bare ground is much less time than in other parts of the country. The seeds will take about 2 weeks to germinate surface sown at about 68F, if it's much warmer it could take longer - I'm not sure that's likely this year :)
You do run a risk of losing such young plants with a hard freeze as we were exposed to last November, that one was difficult for even some mature established plants. If you sow and plant this season, you may want to be prepared to protect if necessary, pile on the dry leaves, put an upended bucket over them for a few days, or if still in pots, move someplace semi-protected until normal winter weather returns.
Both celery and carrots are commercially grown here along the coast as winter harvested crops. Weeds will germinate long before these crops and overwhelm them as yours are doing. The farmer waits for the weeds to germinate and hits them with a herbicide spray before the carrots or celery have broken ground. This is very effective in weed prevention. Al
I think every gardener can appreciate your situation. If you have seeded veggies in rows, I have found the best way is to get down on the knees on a garden pad and pull them by hand. I can quickly pull the weeds in between the rows and then I focus on the weeds closer to the veggie seedlings. I pull them carefully, one at a time, around the vegetable seedlings. I then hill some soil around the disturbed veggie seedlings and carefully water as soon as possible to minimize plant stress. I think the number one trick is to pull weeds when they are small - they are easier to pull and have smaller root systems so the veggie seedlings are disturbed as little as possible. Once the area is weeded, maintain it by pulling some of the new weeds every time you go to the garden.
If the weeds near the veggie seedlings are too big to safely pull, then cut them off with a pruning shears and continue to remove any new growth until your veggies are harvested.
I do not do block planting so I have no advice to offer you if this is your seeding method other than to remove the weeds when they are young.
Whatever happens, do not give up on gardening. Weeds are very frustrating but you will be better off stress-wise by accepting that this problem will occur every season. Weeds must be dealt with to get a good harvest so experiment and find what works best in your situation. Many, many weed control methods and strategies exist out there and are used with varying degrees of success.
Good Luck!
-Tom