6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Most of the commercial/grocery store fruit we buy comes from trees propagated by means other than seeds to ensure specific characteristics - they are produced from cuttings, grafting to produce exact duplicates of the 'mother' plants. Reproduction by seed can be widely variable, and while the offspring might be similar to one or both parents, some or even all of the desirable characteristics may be lost. Most commercially propagated apple trees are grafted onto dwarf rootstocks that are disease and cold tolerant. Seedling offspring of these nursery-grown trees will not have those same advantages.
Then take into consideration cross pollination - and commercial orchards will often use crab apple planted as pollinators and you've thrown even more variety into the mix. You may have an apple tree that bears apples, but there is a strong chance they will be small fruit, and may or may not taste good.

Ok I understand. Thank you both for your help. Even if I cant get a desirable apple to grow, I think it would be fun for all of us (especially the kids) to see something grow from a seed. I have a few seeds that have started to sprout in a moist papertowel. I am going to plant them in plastic cups to start with and see where it goes from there.


1) Spray yard with "round-up" then after 10+ days & use rake to break surface of soil Apply seed at 6-10 pounds per 1000 square feet (check with local garden cewnter for low maintance varitey for your area) rake soil to cover seed lightly..... keep area watered (damp) 3-4 times a day till graas is up then once a day....mow after grass after reachs 3-4 inches (mow level to 2 inches)

Unless your garden soil is quite sandy(unlikely in California) the removing of the dead weeds with a rake, plus loosing the soil enough for seeds to get a start is going to be more work than you may think. I would look into hiring a local handy man to rototil your yard. Agree on the cost before starting. Al

Yes, mandolls, the peat pellets are exactly what I used and I never potted them up since they could go directly into the garden relatively early. Never pinched off either. Most of my indoor growing has been with zinnias and cosmos (which don't even need it!), so I'm not on the ball here.
So would your advice on the cleomes be just to let them go to seed and let them come up on their own next year? I still have some seed left from the originals, so I should just spread them out in the fall?
And the columbines will survive and be stronger and bloom appropriately next year?
Thanks for the help :D

Yes, on the Columbine. My experience is they dont ever look like more than seedlings the first year, but will be bigger and healthy and full of blooms next year. However, many columbine only live for 2-3 years, I'd recommend starting a few more seedlings every year to keep them coming. They self seed for many people, but not me.
My Cleome did not self-seed either, but I am in zone 4, and just dont get a lot of self seeding happening in my garden.


My mother has had 4 O'clocks in her southern garden in michigan for 60 years. She does nothing to maintain them, let the seeds fall to the ground, don't rake them in. They reseed themselves every year. She has had 3 or 4 dfferent colors. About 1998 my dad transplanted them to our county" farm". 2003 my mother had the basement foundation dug up and retiled. The next spring she had 4 O'clocks again, but they are all yellow, no reds or any others.


I've made a discovery. I started fertilizing my moonflower about a week ago with fish emulsions (phew by the way. Stinky) and the purple in the leaves and stems have started to disappear and are getting greener everyday! I've changed nothing else other than the fertilizer so I'm guessing it was the phosphorus.

Well, I live in New Mexico and they do fine. They just require a little more TLC. Ive read that they are drought resistant when established but mine dont seem to be at all. I have to water them sometimes twice a day. It gets so hot here and the soil dries out really quickly. Also I have to feed them alot. They are heavy eaters and the sandy soil they are in now does not hold nutrients well. Just watch the plant. If its droopy, water it. If the color changes, try feeding it. I would thin them out at 3 or 4 inches and definately put them in bigger pots. They have taproots so make sure they are deep pots. I hope this helps and good luck with your sunflowers!

Thanks for all of the advice. They are in the little peat pots, and in just a few days, one has sprouted and raced to about 6 inches tall with true leaves coming in. It is having difficulty standing, so I have some Qtips helping it, and will be transplanting it into a bigger pot today. I'm reading and debating about the peat pot - whether or not to leave it in or cut it out of it.



Hi. I've raised Lotus from seeds for four Years now. It has been MY expirence that floating seeds are no longer viable. I generally toss the floaters. My first couple of years doing this I tried to keep my floaters thinking they just might survive. But each time the seeds only grew fungus and fouled up the water. Now when I'm growing my lotus I always just toss out the floating seeds as they have NEVER sprouted for me. If you received a package of seeds and they all floated as you stated, I would defiently ask for a replacement pack of seeds from the vender! What kind of lotus are you growing? I've ordered nuciferia seeds and have had venders send lutea seeds in the past so be careful of your venders also they like to swich up seeds sometimes. The nucefieria is the asian lotus and the lutea is the American lotus and there is a difference. Also a difference in the flowers. So get a good vender you can trust that won't send floating seeds and will send you the correct seeds you have ordered. Good luck growing your lotus! Remember to have fun and lotus growing is very rewarding so don't give up! :) happy growing

Like clematis, I don't think the 'tails' on pasque flower have anything to do with germination, just seed dispersal (wind).... not like pulp of berries or fruit that can contain germination inhibitors. For sowing, it's up to you if you remove or leave it on. For storing, it's easier to clean the seed of dirt or dust, make sure you aren't packaging anything crawling, with it removed.


Here in California where we have no rain at all in the summer,seeding a dry hill side with any thing but grass sown in the rainy season, seldom works. I have similar conditions to yours and start the plants in pots and plant them when the rains start. Baccharis pilularis "Coyote Brush" has worked well, with roots growing down to five feet and very drought tolerant. I also use a prostrate Rosemary "Ken Taylor" which has a long bloom season with exceptionally beautiful color. The rosemary is better with some summer water. Al


I agree that for the most part I feel that they are all the same. I have owned a few of these and I have really not seen any difference. Some have lasted more than one season and some have not. If you take good care of them then they will last.
Here is a link that might be useful: Sprouter
I have only made my own heat mats. The first two I used cables from Park seed which contain their own thermostat. The one I am using now was made from cables and thermostats from Charlies green house, because of its size. Parks has several cables you can buy and make your mat the size you want. Their cables with thermostats never gave me any trouble. The temperatures are set at 70 degrees, and are not adjustable. Al