6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Intensely jealous of local salmon and razor clams.
Could you be thinking of purple tansy, Phacelia tanacetifolia? Plentiful flowers, nice bee plant, lacy foliage. Takes a little while to sprout, but grows abundantly.
Umm other side of the country in VA. But good thing for me to check... I think your right I'm trying to grow Tansy not Tanzy. I've always been horrible at spelling.
Ahhh yes TanSey.. Ill try again ... I think I have seeds left. I'll also go talk with my local extension office. They were insanely helpful last time I went. Maybe they can tell me how badly it might spread throughout my gardens. Doubt it will be as bad as the catnip tho. I swear the cat is a better gardener than myself. Looking at the seeds (light and wind carry-able)and finding out it grows a rhizome I can see how this might turn quite invasive. SO before it flowers and before it gets out of a pot I will make sure to talk to the extension folks.
In the mean time... Anyone know a better planting option for warding off insects mainly ants from the house? I have heard its great at keeping the ants away. But if its going to take over.. might be more advisable to shot gun with rue, lavender and Artmisia. I know I can get rue going... limited success with lavender, never pulled off Artemsia. I do have a flat with soil no seed, maybe ill fill it with whatever I can come up with and acquire on a pest control plant Google. Starting this late in the season may be the thing that will be the success in some of these I have previously been unable to sprout.
Anyway thanks for your words of warning and bringing it back into my head to go talk to the extension folks.
Here is a link that might be useful: Tansey from one of my seed orderin' places.
When I have used peat pellets I have always gotten mold, usually green, but some white. I have never noticed that it affected the seedlings. You can scrape it off, or stir it in to make sure it doesn't turn into a solid coat that smothers the soil, but if you are planting them out soon I wouldn't worry about it.
Linda Jo - the problem is quite possibly the seed you collected. Alcea is notorious for producing low quality seed, even in commercial operations. Take a few seeds and remove the outer hull. You should find a plump kidney shaped seed inside. That is the actual seed - if it isn't developed, it isn't going to germinate. Viable seed germinates pretty quickly - within a week.
Once they sprout you need to get them off the heat and under lights. Of your selection, peppers will take the longest to germinate, next the toms. Cucurbits sprout quickly and grow fast which is why most growers wait until their soil is warm and direct sow them.
This is the problem with mixing varieties under the dome. I would carefully pot up your cucurbits to individual pots or cups. That way you could keep the heat and the dome on for the others. If you still have seed for your cucurbits you'll have back up to direct sow if you can't pot up or things don't go well.
an update and a thank you. got the other lights set up and got the sprouted guys out of the dome. things look to be moving along nicely. I'll plant these when they are ready and direct seed some of the same variety. I am curious to see if I get early harvest or the direct seeds catch up anyway....
I use the 18 oz Solo plastic cups for my tomato and pepper seedlings. Aside from the fact that 18 don't quite fit in a standard nusery flat (crowded), they work great. They'll last for more than a season if you care to wash them out and save them.
I don't know what your weather is doing temperature wise - you'll have to pay attention to water (I know you said raining now) sowing this late so be prepared for that
Columbine (aquilegia hybrida) - I'm not sure. There are so many columbine, I don't know what to make of 'hybrida'. Most germinate (with just a couple of exceptions) at lower temperatures or need an extended moist chill and many can be slow to germinate (slow meaning 'months')
Gloriosa daisy (rudbeckia hirta)Sow at 68F, if no germination in 3-4 weeks, move to 39F for 2-4 weeks, *see hollyhock
Malva (malva sylvestris zebrina) Sow at 68F in light (surface, do not cover), germinates in less than two weeks
Nigella (nigella damascena) Should germinate in a week or two at 70ish F
Balloon flower (platycodon grandiflorus) Sow at 68F, germination slow
Oriental poppy (papaver orientale)Sow at 68F, germinates in less than two weeks - do not cover seed
Foxglove (digitalis pupurea) Surface sow at 68F, germinates in less than two weeks
Hollyhock (alcea rosea ficofolia) Sow at 68F, if no germination in 3-4 weeks, move to 39F for 2-4 weeks then back to warm (sometimes with these it's best to save time and just assume they will benefit from a moist chill to begin with)
Diluted by how much? From your description, your seedlings do sound burned. Seedlings, especially those grown inside without the benefit of wind, fluctuating temps, to 'toughen' them up are especially sensitive - much more so than those growing in your garden.
The usual recommendation is to apply products sparingly, beginning at 1/4 the normal strength.
Hey Christine, the canna lily seeds need to be nicked or filed to expose just a bit of the white or green inside. then you can plant them in pots, cups or the ground about an inch deep and water good the first time and then when the soil feels dry to the touch. I always put mine in a vice grip wrench and file on one spot until the black is worn away and the white or green is exposed. It only has to be a tiny spot. I hope this works out for you. Joel
I can't come up with an online label for your product - often there is a way to find a copy but I haven't with this one.
There is an email contact page for the manufacturer if that helps you at all. Place for a question.
Here is a link that might be useful: Green Earth Products CA contact page
I prefer the smaller selections as "Blue Ball" since I use them in containers....