6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I don't know what your weather is doing temperature wise - you'll have to pay attention to water (I know you said raining now) sowing this late so be prepared for that
Columbine (aquilegia hybrida) - I'm not sure. There are so many columbine, I don't know what to make of 'hybrida'. Most germinate (with just a couple of exceptions) at lower temperatures or need an extended moist chill and many can be slow to germinate (slow meaning 'months')
Gloriosa daisy (rudbeckia hirta)Sow at 68F, if no germination in 3-4 weeks, move to 39F for 2-4 weeks, *see hollyhock
Malva (malva sylvestris zebrina) Sow at 68F in light (surface, do not cover), germinates in less than two weeks
Nigella (nigella damascena) Should germinate in a week or two at 70ish F
Balloon flower (platycodon grandiflorus) Sow at 68F, germination slow
Oriental poppy (papaver orientale)Sow at 68F, germinates in less than two weeks - do not cover seed
Foxglove (digitalis pupurea) Surface sow at 68F, germinates in less than two weeks
Hollyhock (alcea rosea ficofolia) Sow at 68F, if no germination in 3-4 weeks, move to 39F for 2-4 weeks then back to warm (sometimes with these it's best to save time and just assume they will benefit from a moist chill to begin with)
Diluted by how much? From your description, your seedlings do sound burned. Seedlings, especially those grown inside without the benefit of wind, fluctuating temps, to 'toughen' them up are especially sensitive - much more so than those growing in your garden.
The usual recommendation is to apply products sparingly, beginning at 1/4 the normal strength.
Hey Christine, the canna lily seeds need to be nicked or filed to expose just a bit of the white or green inside. then you can plant them in pots, cups or the ground about an inch deep and water good the first time and then when the soil feels dry to the touch. I always put mine in a vice grip wrench and file on one spot until the black is worn away and the white or green is exposed. It only has to be a tiny spot. I hope this works out for you. Joel
I can't come up with an online label for your product - often there is a way to find a copy but I haven't with this one.
There is an email contact page for the manufacturer if that helps you at all. Place for a question.
Here is a link that might be useful: Green Earth Products CA contact page
Thanks for the input.... my market is about 50 acres of open field that I want to slowly fill with trees for wildlife and privacy purposes... I have no intention of selling anything... just don't want to keep paying $66/100 seedlings every spring when I can break even in 4 years or less.
Just wondering, but if you have adult trees, don't you get a fair number of volunteers that could be transplanted? I have two hickories and an oak on my small urban property, and I'm forever yanking out seedlings. That would seem an easier way to go to me.
Linda, what kind of light do you have them in? The better the light, outdoors ideal of course when your weather allows, the sturdier the seedlings will be.
Wisteria has a long juvenille stage from seed. Just giving them time is the best you can do. That stem will become woody as it matures - and I don't mean to discourage you but you need to be prepared to be more than patient if flowers are your goal.
Here is a link to a germination database. It seems that they are best planted fresh. This particular company sends them when they already have signs of germination. Apparently, the seeds have a reputation for being difficult to germinate. I see this company pretreats them for germination.
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Your Own Miracle Fruit from seed
Melody,
I assume you've grown those kinds of seeds before, and know what they normally look like.
Is there any chance that they've been exposed to a low dose of herbicide of some kind? I occasionally hear stories of deformed plants due to a bad batch of municipal compost or even a bad batch of commercial potting soil tainted with some kind of persistent herbicide. No way to really confirm those stories, but a low dose of some herbicides (2,4-D overspray for example) can cause curly growth, and it's easy to believe that some species would be more sensitive than others.
If the potting mix is tainted, the only thing you could do is wash all the old medium off the seedlings and transplant them into some new mix.
Alex
If they are under the soil then they are in darkness. Seeds that need light to germinate are not buried, they are placed on top of the soil. Mine germinated just fine sitting on the light shelves, not directly under the light, but they weren't in a closet.
After the new batch sprouted, I kept them about 4 feet from my 2x 23w CFLs for most of the day. Maybe 5 days later, I put them in a place where they get very filtered sunlight and they're doing fine so far. Gradually moving closer to the window each day. Hopefully they'll stay alive!
Thanks for the help everyone.
If they have been properly hardened off, they should be fine at those temps. They prefer it warmer, but I doubt production would suffer from the temps dropping slightly for a short time. For a longer period, their growth would slow, but should return once it warms up. They won't be 'injured' unless there is frost, a fierce wind, hail during a storm, etc.
Here's some more info...
Here is a link that might be useful: pepper faq's
I've grown seeds from that very same packet "Bring Home the Butterflies" (from Botanical Interests), and I live in San Francisco too. It's a great mix packet! Comes with so many different types, and lots of them too. I still have a bunch. Since those seeds come from all different climate zones, you don't need to worry about planting them too early or too late. In San Francisco, you can plant them pretty much any time of the year.
I would recommend though, if you want to only plant a few types from that mix, that you look up information on those plants so you can give them the most suitable environment, because they are all different. (For instance, some plants might need darkness to germinate, some might need light, etc, some might need part shade, etc.) I know the packet is designed for the gardener to just toss a bunch of seeds on the ground and let nature do the rest, but I've planted mine separately just because I wanted to have individual plants, not a big crowded pot.
Two years ago I first planted my butterfly seeds in the middle of summer and I had flowers all the way up until Christmas time. There will always be late-season bugs happy to find a home in your plants.
Take a look at this one.
Sarah
Here is a link that might be useful: Hollyhock The Bride
Bought the plastic red cups from Walmart at $2.66 for 50 today. That's $5.32 per 100!
I use the 18 oz Solo plastic cups for my tomato and pepper seedlings. Aside from the fact that 18 don't quite fit in a standard nusery flat (crowded), they work great. They'll last for more than a season if you care to wash them out and save them.