6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
If they have been properly hardened off, they should be fine at those temps. They prefer it warmer, but I doubt production would suffer from the temps dropping slightly for a short time. For a longer period, their growth would slow, but should return once it warms up. They won't be 'injured' unless there is frost, a fierce wind, hail during a storm, etc.
Here's some more info...
Here is a link that might be useful: pepper faq's
I've grown seeds from that very same packet "Bring Home the Butterflies" (from Botanical Interests), and I live in San Francisco too. It's a great mix packet! Comes with so many different types, and lots of them too. I still have a bunch. Since those seeds come from all different climate zones, you don't need to worry about planting them too early or too late. In San Francisco, you can plant them pretty much any time of the year.
I would recommend though, if you want to only plant a few types from that mix, that you look up information on those plants so you can give them the most suitable environment, because they are all different. (For instance, some plants might need darkness to germinate, some might need light, etc, some might need part shade, etc.) I know the packet is designed for the gardener to just toss a bunch of seeds on the ground and let nature do the rest, but I've planted mine separately just because I wanted to have individual plants, not a big crowded pot.
Two years ago I first planted my butterfly seeds in the middle of summer and I had flowers all the way up until Christmas time. There will always be late-season bugs happy to find a home in your plants.
Take a look at this one.
Sarah
Here is a link that might be useful: Hollyhock The Bride
Last November (2010) I bought 500 Japanese red maple seeds
I followed the instructions: I kept in the warm water for 48 hours and set up in a plastic bag with mixed pit moss + sand + perlite for 65 days.
I sowed the seeds outside on a semi-shade in the mixture of pit moss, sand and perlite on February, 28 2011.
I am in May 14, 2011 and I did not get any sprouts.
What did I do wrong?
Here my observation. I will start the seeds in cells, could be moss cells or plastic cells. This makes transplanting them to 4 inches pots simple and easy. These seedlings are so fragile and if you are not careful during the transplanting you lost them.
Thank you morz8 for the link. An area of my garden has been growing Columbine continuously for over 10 years with no help from me. I enjoyed reading the link and have seedlings now about a foot high in another garden, and will be disappointed if they do not flower this year. Al
Putting your seeds dry in the refrigerator didn't count towards conditioning them...they need the chill and the chill must be moist, dry is only storage.
There is no need to nick. Sowing in Fall when seeds are immediately ripe is best - seed pots left outdoors exposed to fluctuating late Fall and Winter temps will often germinate the first Spring. If you haven't had them in time to sow right after harvest, pour hot water over seeds and leave them 24-48 hours. Then provide a moist chill of approx 40F, 2 - 4 months. You can accomplish that by putting the seeds in a bit of moist sterile vermiculite or moist sterile sand and placing them in a dated zip lock bag in the refrigerator.
I use the same method for toms and peppers. I put them in the shade for a few hours, then bring them in(they need to get used to the wind as well as the sun). I do this for about three days, then I place them so they get maybe an hour of dappled sun, then put them in the shade for the rest of the day, then bring them in. I repeat each day giving them more sun each time(if it's cloudy or rainy, I leave them out longer). After about a week, I put them in sun, then in shade and leave them out overnight. After a few days of this I leave them out in sun and plant them in their permanent homes, be it large pots or the ground. So I take about ten days or so to harden off. I may be over-doing it, but I've lost plants planting them out before they're ready. HTH
I am lazy. I have a screened in porch (including the roof). I put them out there and only bring them in if it is going to drop below 40. All day right from the start. Its fairly shady but gets dappled sun. The wind is muffled by the screening. After 3-6 days I plant them, if it is a sunny day I will use shade cloth for the first day
I havent had a problem yet, maybe I have just been lucky.
I have found that a little stress for tomatoes, like a bit of wilting and drying, doesn't seem to hurt them. In fact, sometime the stress makes them stronger if you are careful with them after. Just my experience. But yes there is a limit. The odd 'oops' doesn't hurt them if they bounce back. It is sustained neglect and irregular moisture etc that causes long term damage. Just like eating the odd big old fat steak won't clog our arteries but eating them several times a week certainly will.
yes my pots have holes,ill give them a week and see what happens.i dont understand why just the beefsteaks were affected and none of the others.and for the GH,its still too cold here in the yukon,the snow is still melting.i would have to fire up the old oil furnace and that just to much$$$$
i have zucs on the window sill and some under the 1000w MH and there's no comparison.the 1's under the light r 4 times bigger and greener.even thought we r getting 18 hrs of sunlight.
If they are under the soil then they are in darkness. Seeds that need light to germinate are not buried, they are placed on top of the soil. Mine germinated just fine sitting on the light shelves, not directly under the light, but they weren't in a closet.
After the new batch sprouted, I kept them about 4 feet from my 2x 23w CFLs for most of the day. Maybe 5 days later, I put them in a place where they get very filtered sunlight and they're doing fine so far. Gradually moving closer to the window each day. Hopefully they'll stay alive!
Thanks for the help everyone.