6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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veriria(5-6)

Another option is to purchase seedlings from a nursery so you don't have to wait for seed to grow again thus getting behind in the season.

    Bookmark     April 20, 2011 at 2:17PM
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foolishpleasure

Veriria
This takes all the fun out of it. I don't make money from greenhouse, Vegetable Garden and tree orchard. It is a hubby although expensive one. Today I surprised my Girl with arrangement of roses and grand duke Jasmin. It smelled like heaven. All I produced. She appreciated it with a big hot kiss. I was proud of myself. That is what the hubby for.

    Bookmark     April 21, 2011 at 4:33AM
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loribee2(CA 9)

I actually shake off some of the soil on my peppers and tomatoes when I pot up. It allows me more room to bury the stem. What's strange to me about your post is that your plants suffer because of it. What exactly are you transplanting? I'm thinking like Al--it could be you're potting up plants that don't like their roots disturbed.

Here is a link that might be useful: Loribees Garden Blog

    Bookmark     April 13, 2011 at 5:47PM
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beatrice_outdoors(6a MA)

This is my first time ever potting up-I usually just transplant my winter sown HOS directly into the ground. So far I've done morning glories and sunflowers, both of which I watered first, about 20 minutes before I transplanted, and both of which I purposely knocked off most, if not all of the soil around the roots. I wanted the roots to get into contact with the "new" fresh soil as soon as possible.

Both types were started as WS flats, and each was transplanted both as small HOS to a pot, and as individuals into flats to generate 3 flats per flower type. I'm simply experimenting to see which way I like better, which works out, and trying to figure out which is the better way to go when giving away to friends and family, seedling exchange, etc.

So far, so good on all the transplants-it's been over a week, and haven't lost one yet. I am handling them by the leaves, not the stems.

    Bookmark     April 20, 2011 at 9:23AM
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ncgardengirl

I love the "baggy" method, we've done it more or less that way for years, when I was a kid...we used to sprout bean seeds and such on a paper/styrofaom plate with a little water and then a moisten paper towel over type, they would sprout.

I have used coffee filters for about 8 years now, I like them better and they are cheaper than paper towels too. Much stronger than paper towels. Oh, make sure you keep notes on what you do, how you start them, how long it took them to germinate, germination rate, and so forth. That way you will know how long it takes for your climate/temp. you had at that time.
Like now, I have seeds going in an unair conditioned room, ave, day temps 96 night about 70. I have Mexican Bird of Paradise, they germinated in 1 day. 100% too. Carnations took 2 days to start, they average in the soil 14-21 days.
So, this is really the best way, unless you start them outdoors, winter sowing and summer/fall sowings.

Anyway, if you would like to chat about anything, email me, let me know in the subject you are the one from the TEST Post...
:) Fran

    Bookmark     August 4, 2008 at 10:39PM
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homeopathyheals_aol_com

I have lots of unopened packets of seeds sitting around in a drwaer. Most are dated 2005 , some go back to 2002.Are they likely to geminate or should i just put them on the compost heap? I have wallflowers, geranium seeds, parsley ,cress , radishes, verbena,dill coriander, chrsanthemum, tagets, naaturtiums , oh and some tomato.
Advice on how to germinate seeds from the packet would be very helpful too? Many thanks, Andrew

    Bookmark     April 20, 2011 at 7:47AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Much of the time, the culprits you are looking for are night feeders. Have you tried going out after dark with a flashlight and taking a look?

I usually have good luck identifying a pest at night, beginning right after dusk and sometimes needing to make a second trip later - if the pest is dining late that evening :)

    Bookmark     April 19, 2011 at 5:45PM
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dhromeo

I love New Hampshire! Your state motto gets me every time: Live free, or DIE!!!

I haven't heard of lettuce turning black before, I'm stumped. I usually try and get my seedling trays outside for a few hours the very first chance that I have sun and temps above 50 though, so I wouldn't be the one to ask.

I live about 4 hours south of chicago, and this last weekend they had 3 inches of snow. I think if I lived much more north than zone 5 I'd start to twitch if I had to deal with snow on April 18th.

    Bookmark     April 19, 2011 at 10:26AM
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chele519(5)

Our last snow was April 1st. Heavy wet snow. Of course later that afternoon it all washed away and the next day was around 60 I seem to remember. That's NH! One year we had snow in May.

I wasn't planning on heating it but by the time the end of the season comes, who knows? I was only going to use it to harden off the seedlings and maybe grow some lettuce in the fall. I don't know how well it will hold up to the snow around here so I was going to take it down and put it in the shed for the winter.

I had some of the Bibb lettuce with leaves that turned black, maybe from too much watering. I didn't notice these leaves before I put them outside so I don't remember if they were like that before or not. Some of them were coming in dark and then they faded back to green. Plus some of what I have growing is red looseleaf.

The trays that you see in the frame are only 1/2 of what I have growing just for lettuce. I have 3 more trays in the basement still under lights. Plus the peppers and tomatoes. I figured some would die so I planted extra and now I'm running out of room. The other day was so warm in there I think I could have put some of the peppers in there to give them extra light and brought them back in when the sun went down.

    Bookmark     April 19, 2011 at 2:27PM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

When you transplant your seedlings they will stop growing for at least two weeks, it is called a "check in growth" caused by disturbing the roots. It will not help to move them again, let them grow out of it by themselves. During this time fertilizer will hurt not help. As the roots are not removing any water from the mix, it is very easy to over water, and exclude any air from the root zone. Al

    Bookmark     April 13, 2011 at 9:36AM
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jeaninmt(3a)

Somehow I don't think that's the issue here. In the past transplanting hasn't slowed them down. I am wondering if the potting soil is messed up somehow. Hoping to replant in another brand today. Thanks for the reply.

    Bookmark     April 19, 2011 at 12:25PM
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yiorges-z5il

1) Temperature over 160F will kill seed and a temp between 160-180 is used to "setrilize soil" It should be noted that some seed need to have a cool period (below 40F) before it can germinate. check the package.
for this reason I keep my extra seed in the Vegitable keeper
2)Very true look on the package it often lists a germination rate
3)This true but also know the germination rate of seed from the same compaany will vary from year to year.

    Bookmark     April 19, 2011 at 8:35AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

I keep my seeds in air tight containers in normal room temperatures. Dr. Deno did many tests indicating for two or three years seed will keep this way fine. If you want as long as possible then keeping the airtight containers at refrigerator temperatures will also help. Fluctuating temperatures AND humidity in storage, will cause most seeds not to germinate when planted. Al

    Bookmark     April 19, 2011 at 9:41AM
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foolishpleasure

I am not an expert in these things but I tell you what I am doing. The heating Mat is removed or turned-off as soon as I see any sprout. I have home made green house (not a fancy one) In the Basement I several tables and old desks with flourcent lamps hanging from the ceiling. I have over 100 4 Inches plastic pots with good drainage put on plastic plates. I leave, may be one foot between the lamp and the Plants. As soon as the pot sprout I move it from the heating Mat. I read if you leave it on the heating mat it will grow long leggy and thin. As for growing lights I leave 24/7. From my observation Tomato, Cuccuumber, Squash are growing like crazy, Pepper Egg plant are growing but very slow.

    Bookmark     April 19, 2011 at 4:01AM
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veriria(5-6)

Thanks for the reply. The only time a few of my plants went spindly was when I went on vacation for four days, and they tried to reach for the sun outside of the window because the person watching my house turned them off. Otherwise, they are doing well. But I'm going to turn the heating mat off since it seems that from what I've read elsewhere (and here on the forum) suggests doing so.

    Bookmark     April 19, 2011 at 9:02AM
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foolishpleasure

Aphids is also called plant lice. They very destructive but easy to control. As a matter of fact they serve as food for other bugs like ladybird and ladybug. Every insecticide lists then as one of the insects controlled. Sevin is very effective to control it. Don't throw away the affected plants they can recover if you get ready of the Lice.

    Bookmark     April 12, 2011 at 6:07PM
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melrose

So this weekend I took a pretty aggressive approach to spray everything with Neem. I also cut off any dead leaves etc. Tonight I still saw a few aphids and so sprayed them. The instructions say to spray 7-10 days but I'm spraying whenever I see some of them. Is that a good idea? I'm pretty worried because I have so many plants going that I really don't want them to die. Also, is it helpful to get outside as soon as possible? Which I'm sure will not be a for a couple of weeks since it's suppose to snow tonight!

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

    Bookmark     April 18, 2011 at 9:38PM
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geeboss_netzero_net

Kinda like to capllary mat in Burpee's Ultimate Seed starting kit.

Here is a link that might be useful:

    Bookmark     January 3, 2009 at 10:56PM
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growandmake

I'm excited to have found this discussion. My name is Will and I'm with Growandmake.com where we are finishing the design of new starter gardening kits. Our site is all about helping people to 'grow' and 'make' more of what we consume. We are creating these as a replacement to more expensive kits we've sold for the last couple years. We've found that kits aren't purchased by experienced gardeners, but by beginners or as gifts. I'd love to ask the readers of this forum to look at our kits and give us feedback. They are still an introductory state and we welcome feedback and new ideas. You can look at them here Growandmake.com garden starter kits

Here is a link that might be useful: Growandmake.com

    Bookmark     April 18, 2011 at 5:37PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

It might work for you, but it could be closer to August before you see bloom. Aprox 2 weeks to germinate, roughly 12 weeks to bloom from germinatiom on average.

    Bookmark     April 18, 2011 at 1:42PM
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donka

How many is a few weeks? I'm guessing not enough if you want to see actual flowers. A lot of annuals you can get to flower in approx. 12 weeks. That seems to be fairly average for the fastest of flowers.

Beans are pretty quick and satisfying for kids. Good for you for doing this =) I still fondly remember our grade school bean experiment (has something to do with my current plant obsession.) We just stuck bush bean or pole bean seeds into clear plastic cups we cut drainage holes into and filled with wet paper towels. The teacher made sure that we kept them moist and sunny and 5 days or so later they were sprouting and I was forever hooked on watching plants grow.

    Bookmark     April 18, 2011 at 1:16AM
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mandolls(4)

Yep. I am afraid you are going to have to teach them patience as well. I did have Alyssum start little flowers in a bit less than 4 weeks, and Thumblina Zinnia is settting buds a month after sowing, but that is with a decent light set up, not on a window sill.

Some lettuce can be ready to eat as baby greens in four weeks (again with lights), so you can get them excited about eating vegetables too!

    Bookmark     April 18, 2011 at 6:49AM
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donka

chele519,

Sounds like we're in the same boat =) I'm a second year newbie and I just bought one of the wire shelves and hooked up a bunch of lights etc. I am so excited about mine! Last year was my first doing a ton of seedlings and I had them in every corner of my house. It was driving me bonkers! And wow, do the plants ever appreciate this new setup too. Much more light control etc.

I used 2 each of 2 bulb shop lights from home depot and other ones I got for free from friends etc. on each shelf, I don't think I could fit more if I wanted. I think I bought the 48" x 20" shelving unit. My trays are not directly under lights on each edge a little, maybe 1-2" on each side. I usually pull a tray out at a time to bottom water and I rotate them around when I do that, so haven't really noticed any issues at all.

I'm using Phillips and GE plant and aquarium bulbs. Overkill maybe, but it was high on my birthday wish list and the family came through...lol. I've heard using 1 cool and 1 warm mixed together works really well though and I did some research and I'll probably go that way when I actually have to buy them :)

Here's a pic, the ends of the flats definitely don't get as much light. I think rotating is important.

    Bookmark     April 18, 2011 at 12:20AM
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chele519(5)

Yep, same setup as me. Although I have 2 shelves with 3 shop lights and 1 shelf with just 1. My lettuce is going outside now so that frees up some space under the lights, thank god!

Originally I had bought a 2 pack of warm and 2 cool at Walmart. THey were GE and the cool is much brighter than the cool Philips at HD. One is 6500k and the other is 4100. The rest I'm using all cool Philips. I think I would have preferred the daylight deluxe, they would have been closer to the GE but the Philips seem to be working well too. Aren't those shelves terrific? It was expensive but it will last forever.

    Bookmark     April 18, 2011 at 6:20AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

I gave up the sterilization routine after the first couple of years. If I have a problem with damping off it is my fault for not watching the growing conditions close enough. Too warm and/or too moist, with too little air flow promotes damping off. Fungus is everywhere, learn to live with it, by NOT providing the conditions it needs to flourish. Al

    Bookmark     April 17, 2011 at 10:08AM
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mandolls(4)

Al - I am relieved to hear some of the experienced gardeners dont bother to sterilize. I didnt even wash mine. They were in the garage all winter so at least -20 degrees. I was hoping that that would kill anything. I just shook out any older soil that was still inside and planted them up. I did use fresh mix. And while I got a tiny bit of damp-off on a couple of things, I dont think it came from the un-sterilized pots.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2011 at 11:31AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Here Dietes or african iris seed them self and I dig the seedling when about 6 inches tall and pot them up. If the seed pods are dry the seeds are ripe. Al

    Bookmark     April 2, 2008 at 10:13AM
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andreaplumley0409_hotmail_com

I collected a few hundred ripe seeds from a couple african irises at my old house, 5 months ago, knowing we were moving. I have used a seed starter kit and planted 1 seed per small pot and covered (like a greenhouse) for about a week now. I also planted a few wild flower seed in the same seed starter greenhouse box and they have all started sprouting. Which makes me wonder if I am doing something wrong with the Irises. They are in warm shade right now. Should they be out in the florida spring sun to grow or do they just take longer to sprout?

    Bookmark     April 17, 2011 at 9:19AM
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