6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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Iris Hendry

Hi Youngfye ! We are almost neighbors ! Yes, this forum is wonderful , you will meet lots of nice gardener here ! I am in southern Maryland , I've only been gardening in Maryland for about 4 years so I will just tell you my experience here in somd and I will let the experts here give you the best advice however I will tell you that I planted my cool season veggies about 6 weeks ago , everything is growing pretty good except the lettuce is growing a bit slow ( I should have started them inside sooner ) ... Its a few weeks yet before our average last frost date here in somd ... April 30 ... depending on what part of MD you are in I believe you could go ahead and plant some things out, I would hold off on the tomatoes and peppers, they like warm soil and will just sit there if its too cool ... I am thinking about planting out my squash soon in order to get a head start before the squash bugs show up . Its always a guessing game to decide when its too early to plant out ... here is a link to the Maryland Coop Extension Office , I use the planting dates as a guideline , there is a 1 800 number , they can probably help if you want to give them a call .
Hope this helps a little bit !

Iris

Here is a link that might be useful: Maryland Cooperative Extension Office

    Bookmark     April 17, 2011 at 8:29AM
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seandil(7A)

Thanks all for the great advice,
I want to answer Chris CL. Hi Chris, thanks for all the explanations. I am trying to grow everything you mentioned plus summer stuff.
A month ago I started the spring stuff: lettuce, cabbage, spinach, bok choy, broccoli, onions, and am doing different types. They are what died and got tangled. The last freeze here is around April 11th, so I was going to get them out this week. Only some lettuce and cabbage survived. I guess since its already in the 80s and will be in the 90s by May, I need to wait and do a fall crop as you suggested in say August with the seeds I have left? The nights are still cool say 48 degrees. Let me know cause I would love to get out some green like my brussels sprouts before it gets hot.
Now as far as summer goes I have 17 different types of tomatos, several types of peppers, water mellons, okra, cucumbers, summer onions, and strawberrys. I was going to go ahead this week and start them in cups and aluminum pans with holes in the bottoms of the cups for proper drainage. I also cover the pans, with the seed cups in the them, with Saran wrap until germination. Water melons, strawberrys, cucumbers,and okra I simply seed in the ground. I have to weed soon, and after turning the soil over I was going to add cow manure 50/50 with the soil. Its top soil with red clay underneath. If I do a soil test with my pH soil test kit what range for what I have mentioned do you recommend for optimum grow? I have lime to neutralize if needed. Some of the tomatos and the strawberrys will be grown in very large pots on the back porch.
Last year was my first try and the weather and bugs killed it all. I did most of what you mentioned, but used old bug killer. Where I cleared is overrun with black ants. Funny cause fire ants rule the rest of the yard. I heard some bug that comes out at night could have eaten my greens last year? I will get some Savin liquid concentrate. I gave my plants alst summer an inch a week of water at least, sometimes every evening, and I have a rain gauge. However, the over 100 degree temperatures last year for so long was just too much I guess, I am unsure what to do this year as I expect the same temperatures.
Thanks for the sunlight guide. I did something similiar, but once they got outside the leaves on say the peppers; just drooped in the sun. After I gave up, I actually had small Rutgers tomatos come in when it was October last year?

Thanks again folks and I will checkout that book loribee2

    Bookmark     April 13, 2011 at 11:50PM
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susan2010(6 Massachusetts)

You mention that they get tangled. Are you thinning your seedlings so that each one has the appropriate space for its variety? Also, are you keeping the light source close enough to the seedlings to avoid them becoming leggy?

    Bookmark     April 17, 2011 at 7:49AM
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noinwi

Depending on what it is, you may end up with something very similar to the F1. I'm no expert in this by any means, but I've saved a few seeds here and there from produce and from F1 plants. It doesn't hurt to grow them out and see what you get. I tried growing out F2 pepper seeds a few years ago and I kept getting 3 different types of peppers. Of the 3, the ones I really liked were seedless, so unless I took cuttings, I could never keep growing those. I've saved seed from white marigolds and they would never germinate. I've read that tomatoes grown from Campari F2 seeds are just like or very close to the F1. It is fun to try...I usually have some kind of experimental planting each season, but on a very small scale..

    Bookmark     April 15, 2011 at 1:13PM
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foolishpleasure

I purchased a honey dew from SAM club. It was golden yellow with green stripes. I never tasted a sweet perfumed honey Dew like that for a ling time. I saved the seeds and planted them. I was able to produce 25 of the same honey Dew. If it was not for the Ants and Squirrels I could have double crop

    Bookmark     April 16, 2011 at 12:11AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

If my greenhouse had openings to let in mice or rats, I would not be able to use it as a greenhouse. Are you unable to close yours? Al

    Bookmark     April 14, 2011 at 10:04AM
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noinwi

Where there's one mouse there's more...and more...so if you wait to see what it is, you'll never get anything planted. A really good trap is the Tin Cat. You put the bait inside and the mice go in, but they can't get out and it holds quite a few. Then you take the trap somewhere to the woods or away from your house and pop the top open...and repeat as necessary, which you would still have to do with a trap that kills, but this is less messy(I just personally have a problem killing the little devils). You can also try covering your flats temporarily with plastic(poke holes on top for venting)or tulle netting. Mice can chew through either of these, but it might buy you some time while the plants germinate(and maybe place some birdseed somewhere to divert their attention). Another option is to start your peppers inside, then put the seedlings in the GH, since peppers need warmth to germinate well(75-85 degrees). HTH

    Bookmark     April 15, 2011 at 1:36PM
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loribee2(CA 9)

Wow, those are great looking starts! And I'm with you on wishing I could plant. I'd started mine earlier this year, because when I planted them out last year around the first of May, they weren't as big as I'd have liked. But I also didn't have the good light set-up last year either, so they've done a lot more growing. I'm trying to hold off at least until 5/1. 5/15 would have been even better, but I'm not sure if they'll last in cups that long.

For me, I do think that when it comes to seed starting, the 3rd time will be the charm. LOL

    Bookmark     April 14, 2011 at 8:34AM
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gardenmommy_2010

Thanks! Your tomato babies look aweseome! A little bigger than mine. It's my first time doing them & I didn't start them till Feb 27th. But, I can't believe how fast they've grown in the past 3 weeks. I have to start separating some of the plants again & they're getting too crowded all in their under-the-bed container. Will have to put them in 2 containers. Next year I plan on having two shop lights & moving them into two separate containers. Especially since I want to start more of my own veges next year.

    Bookmark     April 14, 2011 at 2:57PM
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foolishpleasure

I repot every thing deeper except trees. They develop more roots.

    Bookmark     April 12, 2011 at 6:10PM
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keepitsimple89(6)

I repot everything deeper and so far have not had any stems rot.

    Bookmark     April 13, 2011 at 9:34PM
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ianna(Z5b)

It is called No Damp and you should be able to find it in hardware stores such as Home Depot or Lowes, even in Walmart.

Ianna

    Bookmark     April 8, 2008 at 10:11AM
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leseferguson_yahoo_com

No Damp is no longer available in canada

    Bookmark     April 13, 2011 at 8:04PM
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yiorges-z5il

Yes several differnet plants are known as "lotus" And with in an apecies there are several differnt sizes and some difference in shape caused by size of flower etc.

    Bookmark     April 13, 2011 at 7:07PM
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chele519(5)

Ok, I'll keep that in mind. The pictures were taken right after watering. I'm not used to bottom watering and can't tell how much has soaked in until it shows on the top. Should the top still be dry? It didn't feel that wet.

    Bookmark     April 13, 2011 at 2:10PM
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dhromeo

Oh.. Wish I had known that, I do the exact same thing when I water, I fill the tray and let the soil soak just like in your pictures.

Sorry for jumping the gun about it.

    Bookmark     April 13, 2011 at 4:42PM
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loribee2(CA 9)

Hmmm good question. I think the gadget I couldn't live without is the timer for my lights. Literally, I can leave the seedlings to themselves for days on end and they're fine. I also have a 2 gallon pump sprayer I use to water the seedlings when they're in their smallest container. I tried a hand mister the first year, and was close to carpal tunnel after a few days, LOL. I also do like the seed incubator I created (the foil-lined styrofoam box). That's allowed me to keep my seeds out in the unheated garden shed and not worry when them temps get down in the 20's. Even my heat-loving tomatoes and peppers thrived through some cold temps, and I think my box gets the credit--though I can't be 100% sure.

Here is a link that might be useful: my blog

    Bookmark     April 11, 2011 at 2:53PM
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livsauntieshel(6b/7a south PA)

I was given one of the 4 shelf portable greenhouses for Christmas this year, it worked great to overwinter my coleus cuttings and baby canna seedlings inside the house. I started toms and peppers, and some 4 o'clocks. However once it got to be early March or so, the humidity increased too much and it was literally dripping with condensation. Seems obvious now, but the sun was basically steaming my plants. Ugh. So I removed the cover, and all was right again. At that point I was more concerned with causing damp off and other fungus problems than about keeping the humidity up.
PS the fungus gnats that arrived with my amaryllis bulbs really enjoyed a nice steamy greenhouse, yuck.

    Bookmark     April 13, 2011 at 7:06AM
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art33(6)

I've had that happen quite often, it can happen on any seedling. I always spray the shell of that seed with water until it gets soft (which happens fast). After that, it's usually easily pulled off (gently holding the green seed leaf with tweezers). Even if you break the tip of the seed leaf (cotyledon) off the seedling will continue to grow just fine. Just go slow and easy and you'll be fine.

    Bookmark     April 10, 2011 at 1:36AM
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funkez(z6 NY)

Thanks. I tried to do that on Sunday evening and am worried that I may have mangled them - one seedling is still greenish and the other disappeared somewhere into the soil. Mostly I couldn't figure out how to water/soften the shells very well. Crossing my fingers!

    Bookmark     April 12, 2011 at 9:57PM
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yiorges-z5il

If soil wet could be root rot. shock going from high to low humidity.
high humidity gives higher temp & could be high to lower temp. could be fungal growth
aallso shock going from high to low light OR low to gigh light

    Bookmark     April 12, 2011 at 7:21PM
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elenska

I am also wondering if I will have the same problem with my Petunia seedlings, they are very crowded as well.

    Bookmark     April 12, 2011 at 3:11PM
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mandolls(4)

By warm enough I mean no more frosts likely. Though if you are obsessive compulsive enough you could put little plastic cups over them if you get a frost warning. I am in zone 4 where the last frost date is officially March 31st. I usually push it to mid March and keep my fingers crossed, but its definitely to early right now for me to put out anything that isn't frost tolerant. You could also keep them in pots for a while, and take them outside during the day, bring them in at night, but that wont help the over crowding. Search "hardening off" on this thread before you move them outside, so that you understand that they need a gentle transition. - Petunias will have the same issues, but they are much slower growers than zinnia, & need more babying, I am trying them for the first time this year myself, so cant give you any solid advice.

    Bookmark     April 12, 2011 at 6:47PM
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davemichigan(zone 6a (SE Michigan))

You are in zone 5, so if you plant outside now, they will still go through some cold period. Usually the needed period is only about a month. The seeds thought they have gone through fall/winter, so when the weather warms up again, they start to sprout.

But I have also grown some without stratification. The germination rate is lower, but we usually have lots of coneflower seeds. I would suggest growing lots of them (or all that you have). In the fall you can transplant some of them.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2011 at 11:58PM
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mandolls(4)

I have sown the common purple cone flower and the white swan without any cold period (straight from the package) and had at least 80% germination in 4 days. I sowed coneflower Magnus a week ago and only have 2 sprouting under lights. I probably should have chilled them, but I always try the easiest thing first to see if it works.

    Bookmark     April 12, 2011 at 7:43AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

I don't find anything to make me think they would take longer to germinate - have you found any sprouting in the last three days?

    Bookmark     April 11, 2011 at 3:24PM
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roseosharon

Hi, thank you for your response. They have finally started sprouting. Seems to have taken 2-3 days longer then the rest of the ones. Not sure why, everything is the same. It's the first time I've tried them. Maybe it was the seed itself.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2011 at 7:32PM
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