6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

I am also wondering if I will have the same problem with my Petunia seedlings, they are very crowded as well.

By warm enough I mean no more frosts likely. Though if you are obsessive compulsive enough you could put little plastic cups over them if you get a frost warning. I am in zone 4 where the last frost date is officially March 31st. I usually push it to mid March and keep my fingers crossed, but its definitely to early right now for me to put out anything that isn't frost tolerant. You could also keep them in pots for a while, and take them outside during the day, bring them in at night, but that wont help the over crowding. Search "hardening off" on this thread before you move them outside, so that you understand that they need a gentle transition. - Petunias will have the same issues, but they are much slower growers than zinnia, & need more babying, I am trying them for the first time this year myself, so cant give you any solid advice.

I water my tomatoes and peppers overhead, keep them in an unheated workshop, use plain old potting soil and I've never had damping off. But while we get foggy mornings, California isn't typically as humid as states east of the Rockies, so maybe it's the natural climate here that is helping me out, or something I'm unwittingly doing that is offsetting nasty habits.

I do find it funny that some people do things other people swear against and come up with the same results. The more time I spend on these forums, the less I'm finding myself using terms like "must". Not to say there isn't a ton of experience to learn from on these forums. There most definitely is.

Here is a link that might be useful: my blog

I never have a problem with damping off. Here's what I do. YMMV. First, I plant in plastic (6-pack) cells. I fill the cells with a good quality soiless mix (no particular brand - but labeled for germination). I water the mix (in the trays) with boiling water. When they are thoroughly wet, I put them aside overnight before planting. This allows the mix to become uniformly moist. If there is any water left in the tray, I dump it out (rarely happens). The next day I plant. I cover the seeds with bird gravel and lightly water. I cover the trays with a humidity dome, propped open and put them on an unlit shelf until germination (except for those that need light to germinate). It is usually a few days before I need to water them again, but I check thm daily. Make sure the humidity domes are propped open to allow for good air circulation.

I don't fertilize the seedlings I start in soiless mix. For one thing, depending on what you buy, the mix may contain all you need to get them through transplantation. For another, I've found that generally "less is more" when it comes to the question of what and whether to add things to my seed starts. Knock wood, I have very good, consistent results with healthy plants.

mandolls, sorry I misread your question earlier. The reason people use fish/seaweed fertilizer on soilless mix is probably because it still works. The breakdown is going to take some time but not that long.

The soil is relatively sterile but not perfectly sterile, but you always have something in the air. If you imagine putting a little piece of fish or moist seaweed on your soilless mix, it is not likely that the fish/seaweed will not spoil because the medium is sterile. It is going to breakdown and pretty fast too.

So all you have is a slightly delayed fertilizing. I would say if you happen to have chemical fertilizer, use them (diluted) for your seedlings; if not the organic should work too....

I GOT IT TOO IT'S BEEN COLD HERE THANKS FOR THE ALL THE GOOD ADVICE AND RAINY

I am using both peat pots and a biodegradable egg carton...no mold on the peat pots, but the egg cartons have a spider-like white mold forming around the edges...I tried the 10-1 hp solution, so will see how that works. Thanks for all the good advice, also.

If you go to the FAQ of this Forum, you will find detailed instructions for the laundry basket method. I've never used it but it seems much easier than the usual in and out method. Here's a link:

http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/seed/2003045235010103.html

I use the laundry basket when I pot up seedlings from starter trays to plastic cups, run out of space under the lights on my growing bench/table, and move them to my greenhouse. After several days, I remove the basket, and they have adjusted to the sunlight of the greenhouse.

When it gets warm enough for them to spend nights outside, I move them to a screen covered shelter I built from storm doors and a sliding patio door screen. They have always made the transition from the greenhouse to this shelter, and from the shelter to my garden without apparent stress.

Here's a link to the Seed Exchange for you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Web Seed Exchange

I have some treated bianca seed that I could ship to you. email me with details.

Just wanted to share my excitement of discovering that I am now growing a quince plant! Last December I managed to find quinces at the farmer's market and later tried saving and planting the seeds. Unfortunately, I really didn't do my research beforehand about properly saving the seeds, and they got moldy. The seeds I planted never sprouted, and I figured I did something wrong.

HOWEVER, despite my poor gardening skills one quince seed has managed to sprout! I completely forgot about it until the leaves popped up. Nature finds its own way. I am going to be hovering over that thing for the next six months, watching it grow.

And this may be my imagination, but I can almost swear that the little seedling has a faint, sweet quince fragrance.

Blueheron: Most annual Rudbeckias bloom the first year even here up north with our short summers, so you should have no problem. By the way, you may want to check the name: the annual Rudbeckia I know is Cherokee Sunset.