6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
If you go to the FAQ of this Forum, you will find detailed instructions for the laundry basket method. I've never used it but it seems much easier than the usual in and out method. Here's a link:
http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/seed/2003045235010103.html
I use the laundry basket when I pot up seedlings from starter trays to plastic cups, run out of space under the lights on my growing bench/table, and move them to my greenhouse. After several days, I remove the basket, and they have adjusted to the sunlight of the greenhouse.
When it gets warm enough for them to spend nights outside, I move them to a screen covered shelter I built from storm doors and a sliding patio door screen. They have always made the transition from the greenhouse to this shelter, and from the shelter to my garden without apparent stress.
Here's a link to the Seed Exchange for you.
Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Web Seed Exchange
Just wanted to share my excitement of discovering that I am now growing a quince plant! Last December I managed to find quinces at the farmer's market and later tried saving and planting the seeds. Unfortunately, I really didn't do my research beforehand about properly saving the seeds, and they got moldy. The seeds I planted never sprouted, and I figured I did something wrong.
HOWEVER, despite my poor gardening skills one quince seed has managed to sprout! I completely forgot about it until the leaves popped up. Nature finds its own way. I am going to be hovering over that thing for the next six months, watching it grow.
And this may be my imagination, but I can almost swear that the little seedling has a faint, sweet quince fragrance.
Northerner, I'm in Oklahoma, and my Baptistas are pretty late getting started. They are coming up now, stalks that look rather like asparagus, one has a flower bud. I moved them year before last, and they do not like being moved, so went black & dormant - so I was happy they came back at all, then they were completely eaten by caterpillars, so once again, I'm happy they survived. I did nothing to protect them for winter, which got pretty cold this year.
If it gives you a clue timing-wise, I planted tomatoes today, although I usually wait until the 15th.
Thank you for the timing info, Betty. If yours are now coming up in Zone 7 USA, it's probably too early for me to expect any visible activity from mine (Zone 5A Canada). You planted tomatoes today, and I started tomatoes under lights today, so I will give them a bit more time and use that as a benchmark. Enjoy your tomatoes!!
You are unsuccessful because you are worried about Bio-domes and all these money wasting schemes. I am very successful in growing seeds. My only problem is my plants are getting too big and still cold outside. I have Tomatov plants from one foot to 1/12 foot. I have squash, Cucumber, Honey dew, Cantaloupe, Okra, Pepper, Egg plant and all kinds of glowers. I have some old beaten up pots I keep them from year to year. I spent a little money on potting soil and heating Mat that all. Last year We had to replace our leaky bath-top. The workers wanted to throw away the old top I stopped them, digged a hole in the back-yard. made few holes in the bottom of the top filled it with good top soil with compost. Now it is a raised bed which produces 100s of pounds of tomatoes which my family enjoys and I give the rest to the soup kitchen. I keep it simple I enjoy it more.
Dear foolishpleasure
Thanks for your input
I am a super bad seed starter. No matter how close I have them to the grow light they are always leggy. I plan on germinating my seeds inside then putting out to the sun. With the biodome i'm hoping that the seedlings will grow uniformally (is that a word?) leaving very little to chance...hoping this season will be a better one!
Thanks again!
Dale
Check out this older post, it may be helpful (link below).
Here is a link that might be useful: Purple pepper leaves
The people at Pro-Mix actually responded to my question as follows:
"Due to the age of the product, it would be fine to mix it into the garden versus using it for starting seeds. As this product ages certain chemical additives breakdown and are no longer effective; i.e. wetting agent (now product is hard to wet), fertilizer charge (no longer present) and possibily the limestone has been activated (reducing it's effect on pH). Therefore, mixing it into soil is the best alternative. The peat moss, perlite and vermiculite in the product will help the soil be more porous and allow better drainage. "
So I guess I'll have to buy new...unless anyone actually has experience with 5 year old BX.
Thanks for any help!
I had sone 9 month old Pro-Mix BX with Biofungicide and it had lost its anti-fungus properties after that time, and I could see mold growing on the surface of my seed starting mix, whereas with a new bale of the same stuff I see no mold and never get any damping off problems.
I am guessing after a year one of the other kinds they sell, Pro-Mix BX with Mycorize, the beneficial fungi would probably be dead
So lesson learned, don't buy more Pro-Mix than you can immediately use in the next few months, and be careful how you store it.
Is there a way of telling whether the tree is a male (seedless) or femail tree (dirty dropping seed and debris?)
My experience is seeds begin appearing when the tree is about six feet tall and it would be nice to plant only male pepper trees near your home or building.
I find the bio dome is great for starting sweet peas and nasturtium early. I don't find it as helpful for smaller seeds. Once the seeds sprout, and are up about 2-3 inches, I put the plug straight into the ground. They germinate and sprout in about 5 days under the bio dome. I have also used it with good success with Agrostemma, Cerinthe and Royal Ensign - Mostly plants that don't really like to be transplanted.
I have used a 60 plant Bio Dome for the first time. I planted begonia seeds. I started them 8 weeks ago. The top of the plugs have turned white like a white fungus or something. The plants that have survived are so small. They have 2 leaves that are very little. I have started about 8 flats of seeds and none of the others have this white fungus. Has anyone had this problem and if so is there a solution? Thanks for any advice.
corn 1 or 2 ears per stalk, water melon 1 so you don't stress the plant. You'll have to snap off the others as they try to form. or let it be and see how it goes.
The water melons might (hahaha) try to sneak out of a 10 by 10 area. They are like pumpkins, but not quite as bad. Have fun
:) Laura
I would only worry if your soil is clay. I don't have clay, so that wouldn't be a problem here. If you just planted them you could move them, put back the soil , replant and they probably wont even notice.
good luck newbie :) we all learn by trial and error.
:)Laura
I'm not surprised. Though I don't know about okra, I know onions, peppers and carrots take a while to germinate. What I would do is move them away from the window to a warmer spot in your house. Until they sprout, you're looking for heat, not light, and the window might be too cool.
Also, I'm not sure about starting root vegetables indoors. Carrots are commonly seeds you direct sow, as I don't think they like to be moved. But others might have more experience where that's concerned.
Something that has worked well for me is the top of the shop lights I put the plants under once they do germinate.
The ballast puts out a nice gentle heat, and will help plants that require a little heat what they need to germinate more quickly. I've used this for two years and it works great. Peppers that used to take about 3 weeks (sometimes longer) now come up in a matter of days (5-7, normally).
I wouldn't plant root crops indoors. They are best sowed in place in the garden. To help them along, put a cold frame over them. This will help to heat the soil a bit (Be sure to vent the frame, or else you will cook the seeds) and protect them from low temperatures. This will help to reduce the time for germination, but carrots just take a while.
Okra is a HEAT LOVING PLANT. They require high soils temps to germinate, usually in the 80s.
Onions prefer to grow in cooler conditions. You will want a short-day variety, where you are, I believe.
You can upload a photo here--you just need to upload it to a photo sharing website first to get the html code. Once you have the html code, there's some text that has to be added at the beginning and end in order for the photo to display.
From your description, my guess would be Hibiscus syriacus/rose of Sharon. There are varieties with pink flowers--I've got one--as well as blue, white and white w/maroon eye zone. Are the seeds fuzzy/hairy around the edges? I have rose of Sharon seeds from my shrubs and am wondering if that could be what you've got. I don't have a picture of the seeds but here's one of the flower: