6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

The biggest problem with those seeds that take forever to germinate is the top of the soil will grow an algae and crust, causing seeds that do germinate to fail to emerge. For these problems I sprinkle a grit on top of the soil when sowing those seeds. Parakeet grit seems to easiest to find. Al

    Bookmark     March 30, 2011 at 10:03AM
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foolishpleasure

For those seeds who are stubborn to germinate I keep the soil moist all the time. As a matter of fact I keep all the soil pots moist and it has to be because the Moss absorbs water. I have my seeds in 6" plastic pots with 5 holes on the bottom. After I watered them the water seeped into the tray holding the pots. The next day I was amazed that there were no water in the tray. Looks like the Moss absorbed the water back into the pots. I have beautiful germination even with Egg Plant which is hard to germinate. 100 pots and I have not even lost one. I hope I am not going to jink it.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2011 at 12:19AM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

What are you starting?

That really makes the difference.

Keriann~

    Bookmark     April 1, 2011 at 9:16AM
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foolishpleasure

Not late at all. you are in cold zone like me. The safest time to plant outside is Mid-may. I leave the lights on 24/7 I think they love the lights. As soon as they germinate they are removed from the heating Mat to let them grow in normal room temperature. Some people say some vegetables like lettuce, Carrots and parsely love cold temperature. This is not my experience. Mid-may in zone 7 is the best results I got. Off course I harden them starting the first of may for may be 1-2 hours outside.

    Bookmark     April 1, 2011 at 11:59PM
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Jerry71(6a)

We have 24 days till official last frost day � April 25. That is a long way to go.
OK, so I will pinch zinnias, BYSV and trailing snapdragon. The regular snapdragon doesn�t like pinching? Maybe I better contact Johnny�s seeds where I bought the seeds from. This hybrid is Rocket and I wonder, since it is hybrid, what sort of features thy bread into it. It might branch if pinched, I just don�t know. I will contact them and I will post the answer. Thanks for the tips. I will sow seed directly and if I have enough I may start the snapdragons in cells again. I�m so glad I have whole timeline on my blog for next year reference!
Thanks for the compliment, started_with_bean. Yeah, the wings were incredible, just like a candy and perfect with the beer!

Here is a link that might be useful: Plants and the wings

    Bookmark     April 1, 2011 at 2:10PM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

You can pinch yoru regular snaps, they just take a lot longer to recover.

I would try it with a few and then leave a few.. a great experiment! you can see how long it takes for it to start putting on some lateral growth. It may be only 2 weeks, bit it may be up to 4 -6 weeks and that would not be fun.

Keriann~

    Bookmark     April 1, 2011 at 4:06PM
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colokid(5)

Like Sarah says. Forget the "soil" you don't need to buy dirt.
Potting mix straight out of the bag is OK. I kind of prefer ACE potting mix over MG, seems to have less big pieces and is 50 cents cheaper. This could vary depending on your location, The ACE is 70 percent peat, 20 percent bark and 10 percent perlite. Good for potting up, maybe a little too wet for containers.
If you use those jiffy pellets be sure to disrupt the wrapping on the bottom when you pot up.

    Bookmark     April 1, 2011 at 9:36AM
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chele519(5)

Yes, MG is Miracle Grow, sorry.

The bag I have is 2 cu ft, it is definitely potting mix. I guess I misunderstood what I was reading. I have not opened the Perlite so I will return that. I have asthma so I'm glad you mentioned about breathing that in.

I am definitely going to remove the netting on the pellets, I've read a ton of posts about that. I will save this small amount that I mixed for when I do my herbs in pots, I can mix it with the rest of the potting mix. I will check prices on a few others before buying any more. I just had this left over from last year and wanted to use it.

Since I have a large amount of peat, I can use that next year to make my own seed starting mix, right?
Thanks for the help.

    Bookmark     April 1, 2011 at 9:54AM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

What are you planting them into.

They need fast draining soil.. do you have a lot of perlite in your soil?

Sounds to me like they are too wet and too warm.

I would try the bulb forum too.

Keriann~

    Bookmark     April 1, 2011 at 9:32AM
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foolishpleasure

Too early and cold. Mine although all sprouted will keep them in until First week of May,

    Bookmark     April 1, 2011 at 5:41AM
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gardenweed_z6a

Hosta is easy to grow from seed but they're slow growing. I winter sowed hosta seeds last year and got great germination. They got almost 2" tall before going dormant for the winter. That's too small (in my mind anyway) to plant out since they'll be too easy to forget about and (for me) to step on. I potted them up to gallon size nursery pots and kept them on my shaded breezeway for the summer. I'll decide whether or not to plant them out this year depending on how large they grow. Aren't they the cutest little sprouts?

    Bookmark     April 1, 2011 at 8:54AM
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nw_gardener(8 (WA/Kirkland))

auntyara - Beautiful picture! I started mine from seed in early March and I have a couple about 3" or so tall with maybe 3 true leaves. They grow really slowly - I assume that is par for the course?

What kind of temperatures/conditions can they take? I live near Seattle - we have cool and rainy (but not frosty) weather through June. Will they be happy with daytime temperatures in the 50s and nighttime temps in the 30s/40s?

    Bookmark     March 31, 2011 at 9:24PM
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auntyara(5a)

thanks for the compliments :)
I live in NY zone 5 they love it here. They die back all the way and don't even start to come up til mid to late may. Grow super fast after that. They start flowering in July? til frost. hope that helped :)

    Bookmark     April 1, 2011 at 7:19AM
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eaglesgarden(6b - se PA)

Cardboard works pretty well, if you are looking for a less back breaking method of weed control.

Cut the weeds off at ground level, and lay cardboard down over the area, then mulch over the top to make it all look nice. By the time the cardboard has broken down, the weeds will be history (except with the most stubborn weeds).

    Bookmark     March 30, 2011 at 11:37AM
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gardenweed_z6a

I would add to what eaglesgarden said and mention thicknesses of newspapers as an alternative to cardboard if that's not readily available. One of the tips in Sharon Lovejoy's book 'Trowel 'n Error' suggests 30 thicknesses of newspaper under mulch to achieve a similar smothering effect on weeds. Before my neighbor went dumpster diving and brought me several truckloads of cardboard, I used newspaper on a large section of my garden and it's done a great job of smothering grass & weeds.

    Bookmark     March 30, 2011 at 7:18PM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

I think the old T&M list is more complete and can still be found free on the net. I downloaded and printed it out years ago and keep it in a binder. It is a lot more convenient to have it so you can take it where ever you do your seeding. Al

    Bookmark     March 30, 2011 at 10:08AM
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nutsaboutflowers(2b/3a)

Al, thank you also.

I'll check out that one, too. Can never have too much information.

    Bookmark     March 30, 2011 at 12:23PM
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sewobsessed

gardenlover 7,
this might help you a bit:

Here is a link that might be useful: Wayne Schmidt's Canterbury Bell Page

    Bookmark     April 25, 2008 at 3:44PM
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jldoddy_mac_com

Does anyone have a picture of Canterbury Bell Seeds and new growth?

    Bookmark     March 30, 2011 at 10:03AM
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mrsspade667(9-10)

Hi...I have read through the different ways to grow a RP from a seed. I got 2 seed pods that have about 8-10 seed in each so I have alot of seeds to play with. I have been on the internet trying to find the best method to grow them. I have read that if you cut a "small" piece from the bottom it make the seed able to grow easier. Also, a method of boiling 1- boil water
2- take the boiling water off the stove
3- put the seeds in the boiling water
4- after a couple of minutes add cold water until the temperature drops to 110 degres F (45 C): the water should feel very hot but not burning
5- leave the seeds in the water overnight
6- after 24 hours the membrane covering the seeds peels by itself
7- put in moist motting soil
8- the seedlings show up in around a week or less
I have enough seeds to try all these ways but I was wondering how "karyn1" seeds are doing and any other help or comments! thanks, M

    Bookmark     May 29, 2010 at 9:09AM
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Bsewal01

All I do before actually sowing the seed is stratify it with a nail file. It has worked from experience for me.

    Bookmark     March 30, 2011 at 9:03AM
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yiorges-z5il

for those grrown in a pot 1 plant is advisable. for outside growth the 3-4 plant ina "hole" isfine.
I would seporate the plant & pote 1 per pot the others should be potted up for groowth in the ground. in each case there will be a delay befor new growth starts.

    Bookmark     March 29, 2011 at 9:47AM
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ldsluder(7b)

Thanks yiorges... I have transplanted them one seedling per pot, they just look so tiny and lonely in their new homes. Almost all of them are still standing up, a few had already fell over in the peat pot with the top leaves still up toward the light...

I am curious on these... should I remove the seed leaves, and plant it down to there? The stem is darker purple on the ones that fell until the bend and green leaves turning back up to the light, just wondering if that could be under the soil?

These guys look so itty bitty all alone in their new pots, but - apparently they are gonna spread and grow to fill it up eventually.. Thanks!

    Bookmark     March 29, 2011 at 8:34PM
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eaglesgarden(6b - se PA)

Growing plants with different temp requirements isn't really that hard. You just need to understand microclimates, and what different temperatures are going to do to your plants.

Yes, peppers and tomatoes are "warm-loving" plants. BUT, that is what they need to set fruit or to germinate. Once they are germinated, growing them in cooler conditions 55-65 degrees will not do them any harm, in fact, it is probably a benefit. They will grow slowly, so they will be stout and strong. The distance between each set of leaves will be very small. That is actually very beneficial. Also, by growing them in a cooler environment, they will have a much easier time adapting to outside conditions (specifically, night time) when you harden them off and plant them outside. The ground will be significantly cooler than the air when you plant them out, and if the difference in temperature for the roots is that great there will be a greater amount of transplant shock. Keeping it all cooler while growing under lights is a good idea. Just be sure that the temp doesn't drop below 45 degrees.

Another good plan, even in a cool environment, is to blow a fan on them for several hours per day to give them a "wind" condition. This will also help the plants to grow stronger stems and prevent "legginess". Leggy plants are ones with thin, weak stems that easily fall over and large distances between branches.

    Bookmark     March 29, 2011 at 9:00AM
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chele519(5)

Thanks for the info, too late on watering them though, I did it this morning before work after seeing the first reply. How do you tell when the top 2/3 is dry? THe containers are a little small to stick a finger down in there, I'm afraid I'll disturb roots or something. The top layer did feel dry, some of them soaked it up faster than others but it probably wasn't dry that far down. I think some of the peat on the sides is from when I first planted them, I filled the trays and then once I watered, it mostly sank down but some was still around the edges.

I have been blowing a fan on them each evening for a couple hours but when I saw them curled up like that I turned it off thinking it was too strong even on low. I've also been turning on the heat when it drops down to 50 to bring it up to 55-60. Should I stop doing that?

I will use your suggestion for the rack. I didn't think the lights would make a difference. They aren't hot to the touch and I put the thermometer in the basement right next to a tray under the lights and it didn't seem any different than 6 ft away.

I know the Bibb in the pellets doesn't quite have any true leaves yet, they are just starting to come up, but, should I thin those out now? They seem a little crowded to me. What about if 2 seedlings came up right next to each other? Do you snip one off or wait until they are bigger? My peppers just germinated 4 days ago but in 2 of the cells, seeds sprouted right next to another one.
Thanks for all the help.

    Bookmark     March 29, 2011 at 2:23PM
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yiorges-z5il

Plants will flower 1st year IF the seed gets 5 weeks at 40F other wise will flower the 2nd year.
lightly cover the seed with soil. Soil temp for germination at night 50F & during the day 65F taking 14 to 21 days for germination. growing on temperature 55-65F.

    Bookmark     March 29, 2011 at 9:58AM
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nutsaboutflowers(2b/3a)

I was wondering the same thing as patreesh.

Does a person use the baggie method, or can the seed pack just be put in the refrigerator by itself?

Thanks!

    Bookmark     March 29, 2011 at 12:12PM
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yiorges-z5il

Three of your conditions rase a red flag.. (1) the seed should not be covered needs light to germinate. (2) the humidity may be to hight & may promote fungal growth. (3) the temp should be 70-75F for growth.

    Bookmark     March 29, 2011 at 9:35AM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

yeah I agree...

too wet and too warm.

I would get a fan on them and let them dry out

Keriann~

    Bookmark     March 29, 2011 at 9:58AM
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