6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

There IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE DRIED SKIN:aLL THAT IS NECESSARY IS SOME WARM WEATHER, SOME SEMI-FERTILE SOIL, and some moisture. In actuallity You may simply toss the seeds as they are onto your garden soil and they will grow like mad. The leaves are not much raw in salads, but are pretty tasty when sauteed with som garlic for about 10 minutes.

I don't mean to hijack your thread, but I've been wanting to grow some Malabar Spinach and I have seeds, but I was worried the berries might make a mess, since I would be growing it near a sidewalk. Did either of you have any problems with berries that have dropped?


I think that it is not the same how much light there is in sunrooms in zone 9 and zone 6. Now, the light comes in a shallow angle in here whereas zone 9 California, the sun would be fairly high. When I measured the light level in sunroom and outside in front of it with my old photo light exposure meter using neutral 60% grey card (the standard) there was almost no difference at all because the sun beam light came straight in at 60 degree angle. But yes, you are right, I still give it that extra 3 hours of light. I will do an experiment, though. I have more snapdragons than I need and I have 2 plants that are almost identical in growth and seeds are from same packet. One will stay in sunroom and one will be moved for extra light. Just before I will transplant to final pot or ground I will take picture of them side by side. This way my curiosity will be satisfied. Gardening is so much fun!
Check the pictures on my blog that shows my sunroom setup. The post might be second from top or just click on Garden link at top.
Thank you very much for your input, I appreciate it very much.
Here is a link that might be useful: Seedlings update

I had to leave mine soaking for a almost two days, and i already have some germination in a few different peppers...
However i kept the room at a steady 75 degrees...
it seems to me that pepper seeds need a bit more soaking to get through their shells (which are tougher then tomato seeds)...


Tomatoes I start in used sixpacs, two seeds per cell. Usually both grow and I cut one off at soil level. When 3 or 4 inches high the cell will be well rooted and I slip the plant out without root disturbance and right into a salvaged four inch nursery pot. Al

Muffin fans used in electronics are available from electronic salvage companies for about $3. They are rejected because they are too noisy or some other reason, but work fine in the greenhouse. I hang them from the roof on wires and run them 24/7, as their wattage is so low to be negligible. As far as I can tell they run forever. Al



I agree with Mike, I would leave them on the heat for another week or so, after that, I would take them off if they all arent up yet.
Just remember to take off the humidity dome if you are using one, after the first one germinates.
Keriann~



I wouldn't use the wipes. Why don't you place the seeds in a couple of teaspoons of sterile moist vermiculite or sterile moist sand and put them in a small zip lock in your refrigerator. When ready to bring back to warm, sow the entire contents of the zip lock.
Or if you have time with nights cold enough, chilly days with a further temp reduction at night might give them enough time in 4-6 weeks for the moist chill, sometimes a fluctuating temperature is more helpful. Sow and place the pot outdoors.

This is what I have done for seeds that need to be stratified.
Plant them in a container with damp seed starter mix.
Put the container in a plastic bag and store it in the fridge (back of the bottom shelf)
Label with the date you put it in and when to remove it. I use masking tape on the outside of the bag.
Also, mark your calendar when to remove it.
You can use any container. I like the strawberry containers because they have a lid. I put folded damp paper towel on the bottom and then the damp starter mix. Plant the seed and press them in lightly. Sprinkle a little more mix on top.
When you take it out of the fridge, keep it in a warm place until you see it has germinated. This can take a long time. I remember one time I did this - it wasn't until the middle of July before I saw anything growing.
I don't know anything about white fir tree seed. Maybe someone out there can help you with that.
Best wishes for successful growing!

Hi kerriann - the vines are a bit straggly, not particularly attractive. I grow them for cutting, not for beauty as garden plants. One thing which is really important is to keep cutting the flowers and never to let them start setting seed. Once you do that they will stop producing blossoms. Make sure you get seed which is for a fragrant variety. Some modern ones have less scent. If you want really long stems grow them as single cordons. If you are not worried let them branch out. I sow mine inside in January in toilet roll centres because they need long root runs and I will plant them out pretty soon. They can take a little frost.
The US nomenclature is a bit confusing. 'Sweet peas' over here only applies to the ornamental Lathyrus, not to Pisum, which are simply 'peas'. Sweet peas are poisonous so the distinction is important.
Here is a link that might be useful: sweet peas


MOUSE.....they love pansies