6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Muffin fans used in electronics are available from electronic salvage companies for about $3. They are rejected because they are too noisy or some other reason, but work fine in the greenhouse. I hang them from the roof on wires and run them 24/7, as their wattage is so low to be negligible. As far as I can tell they run forever. Al

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 9:41AM
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cetompkins(5a)

Thanks Keriann and Al I will contine with my current schedule since it seems to be working.

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 10:12PM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

If you look at my thread *BIG* seedlings pictures, the tomatoes in the picture were planted 1.29. Plenty big to go outside now.

I would start yours in the next 2 weeks.

Keriann~

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 1:09PM
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luvahydrangea(Albany, NY 5)

I started my tomatoes last week. I don't have a green house.

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 4:45PM
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thelox714

I usually put in 2-3 seeds per cell and once there are few sets of true leaves, I transfer them out to 3 or 4 inch pots. It just depends on the size I have available. I move them outside and right into my mini greenhouse.

Luis

    Bookmark     March 14, 2011 at 10:46PM
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connecticutbug

Thanks Luis!
I'm going to do the same. I have a few plastic trays without the pod holes, so I'll use coffee cups I think when I'm ready to transfer them.

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 12:52PM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

I agree with Mike, I would leave them on the heat for another week or so, after that, I would take them off if they all arent up yet.

Just remember to take off the humidity dome if you are using one, after the first one germinates.

Keriann~

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 7:25AM
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connecticutbug

Thanks for the tips guys. Heat Matt and Thermostat ordered, 2 fluorescent fixtures ready to go, and will be starting my seedlings soon!

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 12:49PM
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yiorges-z5il

if soil temp is 60F & night temp 50F then go ahead & set cucumbers out. tomatoes & peppers are cold sensitive... set out after night temp are 60F or more.

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 10:49AM
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cshag

Temp still dips down in the mid 40's here and there. That's why I just may pot up for a week or so until the weather becomes more stable. That's why I was wondering if it would be OK. Never grow cucumbers before.

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 10:53AM
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yiorges-z5il

1.) Yes 2.)I do not use the kits 3.) good price

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 10:45AM
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connecticutbug

Is there any reason to worry about the ink on the paper leeching? Or is that not an issue?

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 12:25AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Do not worry about the ink, it will have no affect. Al

    Bookmark     March 15, 2011 at 9:33AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

I wouldn't use the wipes. Why don't you place the seeds in a couple of teaspoons of sterile moist vermiculite or sterile moist sand and put them in a small zip lock in your refrigerator. When ready to bring back to warm, sow the entire contents of the zip lock.

Or if you have time with nights cold enough, chilly days with a further temp reduction at night might give them enough time in 4-6 weeks for the moist chill, sometimes a fluctuating temperature is more helpful. Sow and place the pot outdoors.

    Bookmark     March 14, 2011 at 8:01PM
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gardengal19

This is what I have done for seeds that need to be stratified.
Plant them in a container with damp seed starter mix.
Put the container in a plastic bag and store it in the fridge (back of the bottom shelf)
Label with the date you put it in and when to remove it. I use masking tape on the outside of the bag.
Also, mark your calendar when to remove it.
You can use any container. I like the strawberry containers because they have a lid. I put folded damp paper towel on the bottom and then the damp starter mix. Plant the seed and press them in lightly. Sprinkle a little more mix on top.
When you take it out of the fridge, keep it in a warm place until you see it has germinated. This can take a long time. I remember one time I did this - it wasn't until the middle of July before I saw anything growing.

I don't know anything about white fir tree seed. Maybe someone out there can help you with that.

Best wishes for successful growing!

    Bookmark     March 14, 2011 at 8:31PM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

Hi kerriann - the vines are a bit straggly, not particularly attractive. I grow them for cutting, not for beauty as garden plants. One thing which is really important is to keep cutting the flowers and never to let them start setting seed. Once you do that they will stop producing blossoms. Make sure you get seed which is for a fragrant variety. Some modern ones have less scent. If you want really long stems grow them as single cordons. If you are not worried let them branch out. I sow mine inside in January in toilet roll centres because they need long root runs and I will plant them out pretty soon. They can take a little frost.

The US nomenclature is a bit confusing. 'Sweet peas' over here only applies to the ornamental Lathyrus, not to Pisum, which are simply 'peas'. Sweet peas are poisonous so the distinction is important.

Here is a link that might be useful: sweet peas

    Bookmark     March 14, 2011 at 5:58PM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

Thank you so much for the advice and tips. I think I will plant them in the cutting garden this year to see how they do.

Keriann~

    Bookmark     March 14, 2011 at 6:23PM
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jan44(z4b WI)

I soak and nick the seeds. Also, make sure to plant them in deeper pots and disturb the roots as little as possible.

    Bookmark     March 13, 2011 at 12:58PM
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skrsflowers(6)

Thanks all, I think what I'll do is soak them and start them inside. I have deep pots I can start them in, hoping I won't disturb the roots. This way maybe they won't look to bad next to their big siblings :)
Thanks Again,
Shannon

    Bookmark     March 14, 2011 at 3:54PM
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loribee2(CA 9)

I am trying the moskvich new this year myself, so I don't know! Good I hope! ;-) Good luck!

    Bookmark     March 12, 2011 at 11:35PM
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halfway(5a)

About 20 days for me. On a heating pad through germination and then another 7-10 days.

Nice starts Mike.

Here is a link that might be useful: Indoor Lettuce Grow Video and Pic Journal

    Bookmark     March 14, 2011 at 11:44AM
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andyinnyc

I can't state anything about the soil temps, but try to keep your lights just above the plants - effectively the tighter the better works for me.

Some of my plants end up touching the bulbs before I get back down there to raise them, but I've never had a problem with them burning or wilting, etc.

    Bookmark     March 14, 2011 at 9:59AM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

Yes, it is typical.. just like mother nature, it is warmer during the day and cooler at night.

No need to worrk, I keep my seedlings around 50-55*... if anything I would set up a fan, put your lights closer and re-pot up to their first set of leaves.

Keriann~

    Bookmark     March 14, 2011 at 10:39AM
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bernadette_gourder(5 from Newaygo, MI)

Thank you, Keriann. That does help! I think I will make a schedule and hope I get everything in at the right time. I do have another question. I would like continued bloom from June to Fall. Is it possible to do that with any of the annuals I listed earlier? If so, when should I reseed?

    Bookmark     March 14, 2011 at 8:54AM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

Oh yeah.. you will have flowers till Frost! no need to reseed as many bloom with the temps, not just their age.

For some of the ones I could not help you on. you could go to the Park Seeds website and look at how/when to sow them. They are pretty accurate.

your welcome :)

Keriann~

    Bookmark     March 14, 2011 at 9:24AM
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nancy0903

thanks Keriann. ill check out the park seed site and get going!

    Bookmark     March 13, 2011 at 9:39PM
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nancy0903

thanks Keriann. ill check out the park seed site and get going!

    Bookmark     March 13, 2011 at 10:00PM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

I can agree there is a big difference between a florescent lamp(of any quality) and a metal halide. I reliable foot candle meter to measure the amount of light ANYWHERE, can be bought for $25 and stop all the guessing about the amount of light on your plants. Considering how lavishly gardeners spend money on plants and lights that don't do the job. I went through two sets of lamps before biting the bullet and buying the HID. A bulb last me about two years and costs $16 to replace. Al

    Bookmark     March 13, 2011 at 3:44PM
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