6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I have only been germinating seeds for two years, but I have always gotten some moss growth. It hasn't seemed to do any real harm, but this year I thought I would top the containers with fine chicken grit which I have seen mentioned in the forum as a way to counteract it.
I am also assuming that moss indicates lack of light since out in the real world it sure doesnt grow in full sun. - does that sound likely?
If you live in Alabama I would assume it is warm enough at least part of the day to put your newly sprouted seedlings outside directly in the sun the day they sprout. I find here in southern California that if I put my just sprouted seedlings in full sun the day they sprout they do not get sunburned and are hardened off from day one. Seedling that get sunburned are ones that are babied too long inside under low light levels. I take my seedlings back inside at night if the predicted low will be below 47 degrees and put them under my fluorescent lights.
After all, volunteer seedlings that sprout by themselves outside are in full sun the day they sprout.
Keriann: Excellent information! This was exactly what I was looking for. Okay, so I have a plan now.
Al: My question was quite clear, "which do you think is the best option?" No worries though. It looks like there is no one option anyway, so that explains it for me.
Californian: Thank you! I agree. The reason I was hesitant is the late frost or soil temperature problem. It's much later in the season when you do it that way. Wow! You're in zone 10 so you probably don't have that problem! ;)
Do you have a Home Depot or Walmart close by?
They sell MG products, I have used MG potting soil in teh past with good results. It may be less expensive to just buy a bag of potting soil then mixing your own for such small qtys.
Keriann~
Hi, John - OK, NOW I remember reading this a while back. Most people would be surprised that it's not too often that I recommend a soil myself. I did just the other day, but that was because expense entered the picture & the 5:1:1 mix is a lot less expensive to make than most bagged soils are to buy, on a per volume basis. Usually, when a question like yours comes up, someone will recommend either the 5:1:1 mix or the gritty mix, and I just try to answer any questions that get overlooked or might be more technical than some of the others want to tackle.
When you contacted me, I sent you this link that explains how water behaves in container soils, which is the most important consideration (from the perspective of what's best for the plant) when choosing a soil, other than whether or not the ingredients aren't phytotoxic. ;o) Following closely behind how water-retentive the soil is, is it's durability.
If you haven't read the article, please do. We can finish up wherever you choose - at that thread, here, or via email - your call. TTYS.
Al
Ah, yes - I'm fairly sure low light levels aren't the problem. This isn't a regular shop light - this is a bank of 8 T5HO lights - 432 watts, ~40,000 lumens at 6500k. One of these lights allows several citrus trees to set fruit indoors with no problem.
As I said it's 1500 foot candles at the tops of the seedlings which I thought was appropriate but maybe it's too much. Or maybe it's just that I didn't realize I needed to keep them much cooler than I have been..
Oh, that makes more sense.
Yeah, my bad they are the true leaves.
YES, you can harden them off and get them oustide now, they can take the light freezes, just make sure you do it slowly and put them out for their first few days in above freezing temps.
They will love it!
Keriann~
I have an old corn planter (parts getting pretty rusty) I used as a child for planting corn. It would drop 3 or four seeds at a plunge and would plant an area your size in a jiffy. I have not seen one for sale since 1937, maybe I should work mine over though I no longer am planting corn. Al
I'm with Keriann. I think probably you'll need to do the math and find an online volume converter. Alternatively, you could try contacting Cornell directly and just ask them. It doesn't hurt to ask. I do it all the time! The worst that can happen is that they either ignore you or say "sorry can't help." At least you tried though and you might get the exact measurement. ;)
Put it in a window at the least. You will need to wait till the danger of frost is gone then you will need to harden it off.
Hardening off = slowly acclimating it to the outside elements.
If you have extra seeds maybe you can start some outside for that just in case factor. Several reasons why people do not sow successfully indoors. One is because of the hardening off. Two because of damp off. Three light.
damp off = fungal disease that kill seedlings. It actually looks like someone took a finger nail and actually sliced the seedling.
If you grow outside you do not have to worry about damp off or hardening off. Check out the winter sowing forum for more tips regarding growing outside during winter months!! There is some great economic advice given in regards to growing from seed.
Thanks Keriann and Al, I will wait for a few more leaves to form and will try wet and dry methods and see which works best for me, I usually put two seeds in a pot and clip off the weakest one but thought I would toss more in and seperate them but got them alittle too close to each other.
Keriann, I started them a little early this year because they always seem small when it comes time to plant out and I was trying for a bigger sturdier plant this year.
Here is my list and maybe more before it's all said and done
Tomatoes:
Brandywine Pink
Brandywine Yellow
Cherokee Purple
Sungold
Peppers:
Jalepeno
Anahiem
Serrano
Pasilla Bajio
Mulato Isleno
Poblano
Thai
Big Jim
Yellow, Red, and Orange Bell
Guajillo
Aji Dulce
Very cool! You have a lot of great plants!
I use Al's way as well for other plants. I like the wet method for maters though, but you have the best approach, try both ways and see what works for you!
Keep us posted on their progress : )
Keriann~
If possible try giving them a little bit of real sunlight each day in addition to the lights...
Here is a link that might be useful: A few words about beet growing
I started my peppers and eggplant last week. The eggplants came up within 4 days on the heat mat, the Jalapenos just popped up this morning but the rest of the hot peppers didn't come up, yet. Unfortunately, I just ordered seeds for the sweet peppers, so they will be started late.
Yes, I am relatively new to growing flowers from seeds. It is only my second year. Vegetables I have been growing with success for quite a while but flowers are different animal, so to speak. Johnny Seeds website says to keep snapdragon seedlings at lower temperature at night and so I did and boy, do they love it. In the morning they look like they are ready to jump out of the basket, so straight and perky.
BTW, weatherman says that snow should be gone in 2 weeks. We will see.
Thanks for all the help. I'll be updating my garden progress every Wednesday on my blog.
I have just posted update and pictures on my re-designed blog. I noticed that 2 seedlings had leaf damage, the green was gone and just white webbing was left, like some bug was eating it but I couldn't see any. I snipped the tops and saved damaged leaves to look at under stereoscope. If somebody knows what it is and what to do about it, please let me know.
Here is a link that might be useful: Snapdragon and garden update
You should figure about two weeks of growing will be lost at each transplant. If you were a little more specific about your routine we might be able to suggest a change or two. Are you starting your seeds in a flat and transplanting into what size container? For what you are growing, I start in cells and then transplant into four inch pots when the cells are rooted well enough to hold the soil when removed from the pot. I prefer to plant in the garden from four inch pots. If transplanting is done at the best time, there will be very little stress on the plant. I don't like to transplant and change the environment at the same time, as this requires the plant except two changes at once. Al
Here in Oklahoma I have found we have better, long lasting plants if we plant seeds direct. Our early spring weather is up and down until first of April which is really hard on transplants. We now use plastic to warm our rows which allows planting a little earlier. Now we do not have to deal with leggy plants, small roots, hardening off. Plants seem to be able to handle the the various type of weather better. They have a better root spread, and seem to produce more and better veggies.