6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Sorry for not specifying this initially in the thread, but these herbs aren't going to be grown indoors as houseplants.
I also just wanted to know if these were good candidates for seedling transplants for the herbs I listed, not if they were good candidates as houseplants being grown indoors.
Also the only other thing I wanted to know is some herbs are very difficult to grow from seed if just direct sown outside; I wanted to know if these 'difficult herbs' can be grown as transplants indoors.
The main reason seeds are difficult to grow outside from directly being sown is cause birds and other critters will eat the seeds especially herb seeds. Or rain likes to wash them off to some nook and cranny to never be seen again.
Growing outdoors is the way I choose to go, though very few do I direct sow. I only direct sow things that do not like to be transplanted.
All of the herbs you mentioned in your original post I personally do not see a problem with being transplanted.
It's not necessarily the peat that is the problem, but the pellets are encased in a netting that can inhibit root growth in spite of what the manufacturers say. If you use them to start your plants, cut and carefully peel the netting off when you pot up or transplant to the garden. Don't use 'garden soil' as it will carry bugs and pathogens that can kill your seedlings. Straight peat can compact, dry out and crust up, or hold too much moisture...starting mix has peat with vermiculite and other stuff(perlite?)mixed in. It is also sterile. I use Jiffy starting mix in cell packs, then use potting mix when I pot up to 8oz cups after a few sets of true leaves.
As for peppers, you can find a lot of info perusing the Hot Pepper forum(growing info applies to sweet peppers too). There will be as many different methods as there are posters, and no way is THE way. What works for one may not work for another. Don't forget to read the FAQs at the top of the forum page.
Peppers seeds need warmth to germinate, about 85 degrees is ideal, but they will eventually sprout at temps a bit lower. Keep the medium moist, but not wet. Some varieties will take longer to germinate than others and I've found it's best to keep different varieties in their own cell packs or pots so you can take sprouted ones off of the heat without disturbing the others.
Don't fertilize your seedlings until they have a couple of sets of true leaves, and then do so with a very weak solution.
Also, you don't say where your location is, if you're starting your seeds indoors, what kind of light source you have(lights, bright window?)and that info would help with feedback. Hope this gives you a starting point.
Here is a link that might be useful: hot pepper forum
I like a potting mix such as Ferti-lome Ultimate. Mass sow seeds in a container of it, once they germ and get a couple sets of real leaves, transplant them into 3" nursery trays. Let them sit for about six weeks under lights, feeding them from the bottom with good nuits (Tomato-tone is my fav) and you end up with strong seedlings when it comes time to transplant.
Mike
Calistoga,
I recently placed a order with the GreenhouseMegastore. They are a division of International Greenhouse Supply. Thanks for the link-Steve.
They carry smaller hobby packs (10 count) of seed starting trays and inserts. Shipping was perhaps a little pricey but I liked the option of the smaller packs.
Karen
Everyone says clip off the weaker seedling. My situation is I almost never have a weaker seedling when two seedlings come up together, they both usually look the same. So you have to play God and kill a perfectly good seedling. Some seed is expensive, especially some hybrid seeds that can cost over 30 cents a seed. Why not just plant one seed per a cell and if it doesn't come up plant another one. All you would lose is about a week of growing time.
Um okay just to get clarification, you're saying I could start from seed and grow till they're big enough the be transplanted and it wouldn't hurt the root system of the plant? Basically I wouldn't have to repot while they're still being grown indoors as seedlings (to bigger containers)
Also I'm using the 48" grow light not because of the brightness of the light is given off, but because it's bigger, and I'd be able to maximize my growing space.
The dimensions of it are 22" x 11" so would I be able to get two under a 48" grow light? This is for future reference.
I'm referring to using the hobby greenhouse thing I suggested, the one I gave the link for.
My question about it is, is it durable enough that it can be reused for a good period of time? I really don't want to have to keep replacing it year after year after year.
I had just posted some pictures of my set-up in a related thread below (use the link below to view it). This uses the reflective foam board insulation, as I wanted the double-bonus of hopefully containing a little more heat from the bulbs. (And according to the helpful people on this forum, they don't believe it will go up in flames, LOL)
Here is a link that might be useful: Forum Link
I do...for larger seeds, I'll sow and cover with the sowing medium, then top pots with fine aquarium gravel. If using it with very tiny seeds, I'll prepare the pot with the gravel complete, sprinkle the seeds on that and wash down in with a spray of water to make soil contact. It works especially well for those pots of perennial, tree, shrub seeds that are going outside for the temperature fluctuations, the gravel will keep seeds from being dislodged in a gully washer rain and prevent a crust from forming if there should be a drying wind. Discourages algae and mosses for those pots that are going to be a while in germinating.
But I'll use chick grit or crushed pumice as a topping just as often. Will help to control damp-off as it doesn't hold as much moisture at the surface. It also helps to control the growth of those unwanted green things (algae, lichen, moss) under lights. Light layer for those things that have small seeds and those that require at least some light for germination, heavier topping for the rest.
I plant my tomato and pepper seeds in small holes about 3/8 inch deep I make in the seed starting mix with the eraser end of a pencil. After dropping a seed in the hole I backfill it with pure vermiculite soaked in the potassium nitrate solution I presoak my seeds in. It doesn't take much, maybe a quarter teaspoon per a hole. The vermiculite in completely sterile, and very easy for the seedling to push through. Even if mold forms on the surface of the potting mix it doesn't effect the seedling because it is pushing its way through pure vermiculite.
kawaiineko: You're on the right track keeping up with the weather & knowing that the plants can be aggravated when they're potted up, but that it helps them. I transplant mine either once or twice, depending upon start date. I start the seeds in whatever container (3 inch square pots this year with Pro Mix Seedling Mix) & keep them in there until they get rootbound (if using pellets or something smaller, transplant them earlier). At that point, in the past, i'd move them from the cell/pellet/etc. into 16-20 oz plastic cups which hopefully last until they go in their final homes. Trick is to only transplant when they get rootbound cuz it's much harder then to distrub them. They may very well still "stall" growth for a week or so after a potting up, but don't worry about this, they are growing where you can't see (roots) at that time. They'll take back off. Anyway, all this usually takes up about 2 months until they just have to go into their final homes. Hence, 2 months from last frost date here, which is the middle of February (ish). Hope this helps. :)
- Steve
You shouldn't be afraid of hurting the seedlings. They're a lot tougher than you think. I plant between five and twenty five seeds in a space about as big around as a golf ball. As soon as they get the first set of true leaves I sort of roll the clump of soil with the seedlings between my fingers and separate all the seedlings and put them into 4 inch pots. I haven't hurt any yet with my stubby little fat fingers.
I sowed my Verbena Bonariensis on january the 4th outside via winter sowing and I am not sure on the germination date but it was last week sometime.
I did nothing special prior to wsing, I surfaced sowed, I didn't even press them in the dirt.
This was taken just a few minutes ago.
I've purchased both cowpots and peat pots from seedandgarden.com (link included below). I've had success using both type of pots but I do prefer cowpots because they're made from cow manure as opposed to peat.
Here is a link that might be useful: cowpots peat pots
I top water because I don't like holes in the container to make a mess on the window stool. I poke a hole in a bag with a safety pin to make a very fine spray and usually water along the edge of the container only, which makes most of the water flow down to the bottom and then spread from there, which has the same effect as bottom watering.
That seems like a lot of work. I have hundreds of seedlings and that would take me all day. : )
You are still missing the main advantage of bottom watering. The seedlings suck up the water they need, instead of us pouring water over them and seeing what pours through and what the soil soaks up.
I also believe watering from top encourages dampening off becuase the top is usually wetter than the bottom most of the time VS. bottom watering (top layer dries out faster and longer)
But hey, if it is working for you, thats great!
Keriann~