6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Thanks swb! :) It's interesting b/c the zinnias and alyssum that I started in the same tray/same window are compact and growing well!

I'll resow cosmos outside when it gets warm.

I had two cosmos in each of two pots, otherwise identical. I pinched one plant in each pot and the cosmos I pinched both died, slowly.

Calistoga,

I recently placed a order with the GreenhouseMegastore. They are a division of International Greenhouse Supply. Thanks for the link-Steve.

They carry smaller hobby packs (10 count) of seed starting trays and inserts. Shipping was perhaps a little pricey but I liked the option of the smaller packs.

Karen

Thanks for the references. The more sources the better. Al

Everyone says clip off the weaker seedling. My situation is I almost never have a weaker seedling when two seedlings come up together, they both usually look the same. So you have to play God and kill a perfectly good seedling. Some seed is expensive, especially some hybrid seeds that can cost over 30 cents a seed. Why not just plant one seed per a cell and if it doesn't come up plant another one. All you would lose is about a week of growing time.

Um okay just to get clarification, you're saying I could start from seed and grow till they're big enough the be transplanted and it wouldn't hurt the root system of the plant? Basically I wouldn't have to repot while they're still being grown indoors as seedlings (to bigger containers)

Also I'm using the 48" grow light not because of the brightness of the light is given off, but because it's bigger, and I'd be able to maximize my growing space.

The dimensions of it are 22" x 11" so would I be able to get two under a 48" grow light? This is for future reference.

I'm referring to using the hobby greenhouse thing I suggested, the one I gave the link for.

My question about it is, is it durable enough that it can be reused for a good period of time? I really don't want to have to keep replacing it year after year after year.

Use one of the reflective emergency blankets you can often find in the camping section of sporting goods stores.

I had just posted some pictures of my set-up in a related thread below (use the link below to view it). This uses the reflective foam board insulation, as I wanted the double-bonus of hopefully containing a little more heat from the bulbs. (And according to the helpful people on this forum, they don't believe it will go up in flames, LOL)

Here is a link that might be useful: Forum Link

I do...for larger seeds, I'll sow and cover with the sowing medium, then top pots with fine aquarium gravel. If using it with very tiny seeds, I'll prepare the pot with the gravel complete, sprinkle the seeds on that and wash down in with a spray of water to make soil contact. It works especially well for those pots of perennial, tree, shrub seeds that are going outside for the temperature fluctuations, the gravel will keep seeds from being dislodged in a gully washer rain and prevent a crust from forming if there should be a drying wind. Discourages algae and mosses for those pots that are going to be a while in germinating.

But I'll use chick grit or crushed pumice as a topping just as often. Will help to control damp-off as it doesn't hold as much moisture at the surface. It also helps to control the growth of those unwanted green things (algae, lichen, moss) under lights. Light layer for those things that have small seeds and those that require at least some light for germination, heavier topping for the rest.

I plant my tomato and pepper seeds in small holes about 3/8 inch deep I make in the seed starting mix with the eraser end of a pencil. After dropping a seed in the hole I backfill it with pure vermiculite soaked in the potassium nitrate solution I presoak my seeds in. It doesn't take much, maybe a quarter teaspoon per a hole. The vermiculite in completely sterile, and very easy for the seedling to push through. Even if mold forms on the surface of the potting mix it doesn't effect the seedling because it is pushing its way through pure vermiculite.

kawaiineko: You're on the right track keeping up with the weather & knowing that the plants can be aggravated when they're potted up, but that it helps them. I transplant mine either once or twice, depending upon start date. I start the seeds in whatever container (3 inch square pots this year with Pro Mix Seedling Mix) & keep them in there until they get rootbound (if using pellets or something smaller, transplant them earlier). At that point, in the past, i'd move them from the cell/pellet/etc. into 16-20 oz plastic cups which hopefully last until they go in their final homes. Trick is to only transplant when they get rootbound cuz it's much harder then to distrub them. They may very well still "stall" growth for a week or so after a potting up, but don't worry about this, they are growing where you can't see (roots) at that time. They'll take back off. Anyway, all this usually takes up about 2 months until they just have to go into their final homes. Hence, 2 months from last frost date here, which is the middle of February (ish). Hope this helps. :)

- Steve

You shouldn't be afraid of hurting the seedlings. They're a lot tougher than you think. I plant between five and twenty five seeds in a space about as big around as a golf ball. As soon as they get the first set of true leaves I sort of roll the clump of soil with the seedlings between my fingers and separate all the seedlings and put them into 4 inch pots. I haven't hurt any yet with my stubby little fat fingers.

i will check out your lists and e-mail you

i recently bought some elepant seeds off ebay,,, just punch in elephant head seeds and i am sure something will come up for you,,,I am also new at the plant,,bought a few on craigslist and cant wait tio plant them all over,,,

sue

Hi Newbie,I see your last follow up was a while ago, but I'm wondering, did they germinate? Which method did you end up using. I'm trying to grow some from seed too, as no local nurseries ever carry this around here.

I sowed my Verbena Bonariensis on january the 4th outside via winter sowing and I am not sure on the germination date but it was last week sometime.

I did nothing special prior to wsing, I surfaced sowed, I didn't even press them in the dirt.

This was taken just a few minutes ago.

Um well can you show me a picture of what you're describing because I'm a little confused. I don't understand what you mean just by you telling me. I'd need to see it to understand. Are you talking about just the tray itself?

I mean with the picture does it already come divided into segments on the flat? Or is it the flat and then the thing divided into segments.

I've also heard if you leave the lid on, the plants will be more susceptible to mold and damping off cause of the constant moisture and heat?

Would it hurt the seedlings if I were to grow it with the cover off?

A mini greenhouse usually consists of a tray, cell packs, and a cover/dome. The tray does not have drainage holes, but may have grooves to keep excess moisture away from the cells. The cell pack, which sits inside of the tray can be separated into sections of 4 or 6 cells, the kind you would see at a garden center in the spring containing flowers or veggie seedlings. The cover keeps moisture in and is only used until the seeds germinate, then you take it off or your seedlings will mold or cook. Different companies will have different designs, but they all do basically the same thing. The one you linked to has a heater which can speed germination.
Seed starting mix, such as Jiffy Mix is a loose, light peat-based mix that you would fill the cells with to plant your seeds in.
Peat pellets are compressed plugs of seed starting mix, encased in netting, so they will stand alone once they are moistened. You don't need to use cell packs with them, but some mini greenhouse "kits" include them and have special cells that they will fit in. You can place pellets in any type of container or tray that has drain holes, then place that container on a tray to collect excess water.
I've included a link to a site that shows how to use them.
I hope I'm not confusing you more.

Here is a link that might be useful: peat pellets

"2nd I don't believe gardening is fun if you go thru all the work to plant and grow the stuff, and get no results. If everything dies, or things don't turn out the way you'd like, I don't consider it fun."

We've all had this happen. It's the way we learn what works and what doesn't.
No one can give you an exact date to start your plants. No one knows what the weather is going to do. I'm in a zone a bit colder than yours and I start my toms and peppers in mid-March. I pot them up to 8oz cups, then to 16oz cups before hardening them off about mid-May. As soon as the night temps stay around 50 degrees, I plant them out into their final containers or raised bed. The timing is going to be a little different each year.
Maybe you should use the money you would spend on a "mini greenhouse" and purchase seedlings(at least some of them) from a nursery or garden center your first time around and slowly get into starting from seed. It may take some stress off.
You can also Winter Sow some of your seeds if you don't have a lot of room for potting up. Check out the Winter Sowing forum for more info. We're all trying to help you succeed.

In one of your previous 8 or 9 posts you were admit on telling me that a 48" light was not feasible and that you were getting a 22" light, that is why I wrote about a 22" light�.

I am done helping and giving advice on deaf ears�. Sorry so blunt but you have asked the same questions 10 times looking for an answer you want to hear� I don�t get it and I don�t think I can help anymore.

Have fun and best of luck with your veggies� it will be very rewarding to pick a fresh pepper off a plant you have grown from seed yourself! : )

Keriann~

Use heat cable in seed flat.Last 2 years placed seeded peppers on 4" spacer over floor heat duct in family room.Cover with plastic tray cover. Very good results & cost-0

I'm using 72 cell trays with clear covers and 2-1/4" square peat pots (36 per tray) instead of the plastic flats. With a 2 lamp 4 ft. shop light just above the cover, the inside temp is 80-82 degrees. Cabbage and broccoli germinated in 2 days, tomatoes in 3, peppers in 4-5. Right now I think I may not use heat again. Also haven't had to water again since planting. Today is 6 days and I took the cover off of the cabbage & broccoli. Room temp is about 65-68.

I move my seedlings outside everyday that the temperature is above 50 and bring them in at night and put them under my fluorescent lights. It is a lot of work but results in stocky, sturdy transplants that are fully hardened off.

I am growing purple coneflower, milkweed, annual phlox, zinnias and monarda thanks guys : )