6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Well I'll try to answer a couple of your questions based on my experience with Earthboxes. ;)
First I assume you know that they are not intended for direct seeding but are intended for transplants only. So you are sort of starting out with 2 strikes against you by trying to direct seed to the EB. The best approach is to grow your own seedlings in a regular seed starting container inside and then transplant them to an earthbox after they are hardened off. That would be the standard approach.
That said, it is sort of possible to direct seed in them IF you treat them just as you would a patch of outside ground the same size as the box.
EX: for lettuce, at proper planting time outside, you'd (1) cut two narrow strips about 4-5" apart out of the plastic cover approximately the length of the box, plant your seeds in those rows and once they germinate well you thin the seedlings to 6" apart just as you would in a garden OR (2) leave the plastic off all together and scatter plant the lettuce seed all over the top, then thin the seedlings as needed.
If wind is a problems for you then you'll have to construct some sort of wind shield for the planters or find a more sheltered location for the boxes. Some plants will require supports - definitely the tomatoes will and likely the cukes too.
First I'll start with cool weather crops, and then once the weather becomes warm enough and the cool weather stuff has matured, I'll move onto warm weather crops.
I have to say I think you are over-estimating what you are going to be able to plant with only 3 EB. Most of your so-called cool weather crops will still be going strong long after it is time to get your tomatoes and cukes and beans planted. ;) You'll be ripping out productive crops to get those other things planted.
You don't say your zone like most of us do or where you live so I have no way of knowing how long your gardening season is but turnips and beets and even the lettuce and spinach are long lasting crops so their boxes won't be free for those other crops. You might want to consider cutting back on the number of things you try to grow with only 3 boxes or invest in more boxes. I'd suggest you use 1 box for mixed lettuce, spinach and a few radishes, skip the beets, turnips, and peas since you won't get much from them anyway, use one box for cukes, and 1 for tomatoes.
Hope this helps.
Dave
PLANT SEEDS, NO PROBLEM! Put the tarp on, cut holes where the seeds are going to go. follow instructions for how many plants in one box. put seeds in, watch them grow! I used snap pea seeds 2 weeks ago. I watched the seeds come up, and helped guide them, but I think they were all going to make it even if I just left them alone.
Here is a link that might be useful: andy deer
Marg, you may want to watch your seed sources, article by U of Minnesota cautions " The species can be grown from seed, although locating viable and true-to-type seed can be difficult. "
I see Gardens North has theirs moist packed. As sellers of very high quality seeds, they don't do that without reason.
"Gardens North seeds: ACER pseudosieboldianum (Moist Packed)Seed has been moist-packed to preserve viability. Cold treatment required."
Plant Explorers propagation notes: "Fresh seed - Will be cold moist stored. Place seed in tepid water, sow sinkers immediately. Soak floating seed 4-24 hours until it sinks and sow immediately. Sow thinly at 6 mm deep in a sandy peat layer; tamp firm. Cold stratify for 60-120 days. Keep moist. Add a thin layer of fine mulch. Don't let germinating seed freeze, dry out or migrate onto the medium surface as this is fatal. After cold stratification period is over, expose to spring conditions to promote germination. Good indirect light is best for seedlings"
aquawise: Root rot might be the culprit. I may have left too much water on the pan at the bottom of the pot (I'm using plastic pots).
calistoga: Could it be a salt problem too? I'm currently using soil-less potting mix with slow-release fertilizer. The package doesn't say what kind of fertilizer it is, but they look like little beads that burst when wet.
I am growing some delphinium now in an unheated greenhouse. However I do provide 70 degree bottom heat to the soil. I doubt they will germinate in your zone with no heat. George says they will need vernalization or a winter chilling to flower and I would not argue with george. Al
I buy mine from Westcoast seeds (www.westcoastseeds.com). I've been buying from them from years, I've never seen such a great germination rate from a pack of seeds as I do from theirs. They're a Canadian company, not sure about shipping to the US (I know I can't send seeds to my in-laws in NYC, border issues).
I was in walmart the other day, and they have their seeds out. They carry ferry morse and american seed. The american seed is 20 cents a pack and I have always had pretty good success with them. I also have great success with ferry morse.
For online purchases there are several.
tradewindsfruitstore.com
rareseeds.com
sampleseeds.com
stokes.com
seedsaversexchange.com I always forget this one, I hope I put it in right!!
plus many more..
Diane, do you have trouble transplanting? I hear they don't like it, so have been hesitant about trying them again from seed. I sowed some last year in a couple of paper pots but they didn't grow or bloom well in subsequent container pots. Do you keep them in full sun? I started them last year in mid April because of the transplant concern, and worries that they would be too big by late May.
One can often get some good answers at Ornamental Grasses Forum - GardenWeb.
I don't see anything there that shouldn't be an easy warm germinator. And I'm not sure why the isolepis would say begin in mid Feb, it appears germination should take place in no more than 6-10 days warm, plant out at 6-8 weeks. Cultivation notes for this one do indicate it is happy in containers, more so than in most beds....possibly the suggestion for the early sowing is to get the most growth from this warm season annual to better enjoy it.
If you have adequate light indoors you could do the early sowing but I wonder if really necessary if that is not convenient for you.
Ooh, I ordered some cypress vine this year (another type of ipomoea)...maybe I will try that in a basket too:) I have some left over Glory Vine seeds from last year...I didn't have any luck with them...maybe i will try them in a basket. I love planning and new ideas, how exciting!!!
With those seeds I think you can get away without a heat mat.
Zinnias grow like crazy, I would only start them 2 weeks early as well as your squash. Both don�t benefit form transplanting large plants outside .
Depending on how many of each you are starting, you will probably need more lights (1 or 2 2ft florescent shop lights). If you stick with your two lights your seedlings will not perish, but they may become leggy as the stretch for the light.
Also, your 72 ct. seedling trays will be perfect to start them in or transplant once into, but you will need to transplant them again into larger containers before they are ready for outside because I believe they will get root bound those small trays.
Best of luck and keep us posted!
Keriann~
Your cukes and squash will need warmth and room, so you may want to either start them outside when the soil warms up, or start them in larger pots, say, 3" - 4". It will be easier to transplant them later. What herbs are you starting? Their needs will vary, for instance, Cilantro is a cool weather crop. It will bolt in the heat, so plant it in succession to keep a constant supply and let a few plants go to seed. It can be transplanted out earlier than Basil, which needs warmth and may stunt if planted out too early. I usually treat my Basil like I do my tomatoes.
Purple Coneflower is a perennial and may not flower for you the first season, so find a permanent spot for it..you will be rewarded the second season.
In your zone, you probably won't need to have your plants under lights for too long, so the clamp lights should do, especially if you have the addition of a sunny window(if not, don't start them too early).
Does your starter cell pack separate or is it a solid piece? Some of them separate into 4 or 6 cells and make it easier to transplant when some things grow faster than others.
It will be hit or miss this first time around, just don't get too stressed if you lose stuff and take notes for next year. HTH
Renov8r, since it's February & you aren't a rodent who 'planted' in Fall, you may want to know these require a period of stratification (cold & moist) of 3-4 months before they will germinate. You don't have your zone listed for us to know how much winter you have left.
And, do you have some space and an appropriate site? I ask because these can become BIG trees over time, not all of us have the room to grow something to this eventual size. The caution may not apply to you but I really hate seeing someone plant inappropriate trees for their space (or without consideration of neighbors) and then be faced with an expensive removal several years out....so while repetitive, I'll usually ask :)
And, black walnut roots release juglone, a chemical that can impede growth of many plants, including several vegetables, flowers and fruit so consider the perimeter and what you may want to do under that tree too.
We have several black walnut trees in our area. The juglone,the chemical that walnut trees produces, effects plants like tomatoes, potatoes, pepers and eggplants.
That being said, They have never caused any of the tomato plant growers around here any grief.
I am all in favor of tree planting, If you have extras you should plant them in the wild. We need more trees.