6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

One can often get some good answers at Ornamental Grasses Forum - GardenWeb.

I don't see anything there that shouldn't be an easy warm germinator. And I'm not sure why the isolepis would say begin in mid Feb, it appears germination should take place in no more than 6-10 days warm, plant out at 6-8 weeks. Cultivation notes for this one do indicate it is happy in containers, more so than in most beds....possibly the suggestion for the early sowing is to get the most growth from this warm season annual to better enjoy it.

If you have adequate light indoors you could do the early sowing but I wonder if really necessary if that is not convenient for you.

Ooh, I ordered some cypress vine this year (another type of ipomoea)...maybe I will try that in a basket too:) I have some left over Glory Vine seeds from last year...I didn't have any luck with them...maybe i will try them in a basket. I love planning and new ideas, how exciting!!!

I have some yellow BES seed from a previous year...the hanging basket sounds good...I wonder how it would look with a combo of BES and Cypress Vine? I love yellow and red together. Anyone try it?

With those seeds I think you can get away without a heat mat.

Zinnias grow like crazy, I would only start them 2 weeks early as well as your squash. Both don�t benefit form transplanting large plants outside .

Depending on how many of each you are starting, you will probably need more lights (1 or 2 2ft florescent shop lights). If you stick with your two lights your seedlings will not perish, but they may become leggy as the stretch for the light.

Also, your 72 ct. seedling trays will be perfect to start them in or transplant once into, but you will need to transplant them again into larger containers before they are ready for outside because I believe they will get root bound those small trays.

Best of luck and keep us posted!

Keriann~

Your cukes and squash will need warmth and room, so you may want to either start them outside when the soil warms up, or start them in larger pots, say, 3" - 4". It will be easier to transplant them later. What herbs are you starting? Their needs will vary, for instance, Cilantro is a cool weather crop. It will bolt in the heat, so plant it in succession to keep a constant supply and let a few plants go to seed. It can be transplanted out earlier than Basil, which needs warmth and may stunt if planted out too early. I usually treat my Basil like I do my tomatoes.
Purple Coneflower is a perennial and may not flower for you the first season, so find a permanent spot for it..you will be rewarded the second season.
In your zone, you probably won't need to have your plants under lights for too long, so the clamp lights should do, especially if you have the addition of a sunny window(if not, don't start them too early).
Does your starter cell pack separate or is it a solid piece? Some of them separate into 4 or 6 cells and make it easier to transplant when some things grow faster than others.
It will be hit or miss this first time around, just don't get too stressed if you lose stuff and take notes for next year. HTH

I 2nd and 3rd what others have said.

1/4 dilution then move up to 1/2 dilution.

Keriann~

With granular fertilizer it's better reduce the dosage on seedlings and young plants. Older plants can take larger amounts of fertilizer but tender seedlings would have some issues with granular fertilizers mixed at "full strength".

Not sure about fish emulsion but might be a good idea to take it easy the first few fertilizer applications until some good roots develop.

I typically only soak the seeds which i can tell have thick seed coat, like Morning Glory's and Lupines. I can't recall ever soaking anything else.

Thanks for the info. So it sounds like potassium nitrate is inexpensive and readily available at farm suppliers. That's good to know.

I'm soaking juniper seeds in plain water now and from what I've read they should soak for about 4 or 5 days for the water to soften the very tough seed coat. Maybe a shorter soak in potassium nitrate might help soften the seedcoats and improve germination?

I love Petunia 'Laura Bush'. The flowers are smaller than other hybrids, but it is vigorous, does not peter out fast like others and fragrant to boot:

I planted very small seedlings the last week of May. Here they are on June 16, 2 1/2 weeks after transplanting:

July 4:

July 14:

I sow my seeds in February or March the Winter Sowing method, i.e. sow them in a container, cover with a clear piece of plastic with drainage and ventilation, leave them outdoors in the sun and snow. They germinated in early April.

I have had very good luck with a type called 'Prism Sunshine'. They grow very easy from seed and don't really require a lot of dead heading unless it is a VERY wet year, then they tend to get yucky (as most petunias do in wet weather). I will put up a link so you can view them. I also really like the Blue Wave Petunias (which are really dark purple) but I have never grown them from seed.

Here is a link that might be useful: Prism Sunshine Petunia from park seed

I grow hundreds of seedlings and have found the best way to wet the mixture is fill a 5 gallon bucket about one third full with dry seed starting mix and add water until it is slightly soupy. Then keep adding more dry mix while constantly mixing until you get a moist but not dripping wet mixture. After you have mixed several buckets full you will be able to judge pretty well when you have the right amount of moisture.
Also, try to buy seed starting mix that contains a wetting agent otherwise the peat moss will just float on top. If it doesn't have a wetting agent then use very hot water. But I use Pro-Mix with Biofungicide so I don't use hot water because it might kill the friendly bacteria which eat damping off fungus. If you save rainwater, use that instead of clorinated salt laden tap water.
If by chance you do make the mixture too wet leave the seed starting container uncovered until it dries out a bit.

I have a collection of 33 gallon plastic garbage containers, I buy when they are on sale. Each of my ingredients is kept in its own container with lid. When I fill the containers I moisten the Peat, Vermiculite, Moss, Turface,Chicken Grit or Play Ball. Nothing is stored in a dry form. Anything dry is just too time consuming to mix with anything else. Al

Vivid, you can use a top or cover on seeds while inside, but if you are thinking of using tops inside for seedlings - that's not a good idea and can lead to damp off. The tops inside are for germinaton, maintaining a humid environment for the seeds, they are removed at germination so the seedlings can have circulation/air.

The method Gardenweed is showing you is for sowing of seeds outdoors in winter.

@Gardenweed - My e-mail is on my profile, yes.

@morz8 - Oh, okay. Thanks!

Loribee hit the nail on the head.

I am in the same area as you dragonjaze and that is the schedule I use as well. I look more at soil temps then air temps becuase I can always cover seedlings, but some really hate cold soil.

I would do both as suggest!

I cant wait for spring as well! Have fun :)

Keriann~

Beans are best grown directly into the ground. They do not like to be transplanted. Lettuce grows pretty fast once planted in the ground. Tomatoes usually take 4 - 5 weeks before needing transplanting into the ground. Watermelon & Zuccini also will only take 4 or 5 weeks at the MOST before needing transplanting. Peppers I start about 6 or 7 weeks. They take the longest.

The fact is the float test is not a reliable way to tell if ALL seeds are viable. In other words you could be throwing away a lot of good seeds. Al

In my case, if I have lots of seed to work with, like native plants from the yard, then I will be a bit more selective with my seeds and typically only use seeds that sink after a good soak.

If I work with purchased seeds and have only a very limited supply, then I will use most seeds whether they float or sink.

For my sister's wedding I made about 75 rosemary plants out of cuttings for favors. Her wedding was in August, but other herbs and especially mixes of herb plants can make lovely potted decorations as well.

hopin4rain,

You sound like you are very ambitious. However, if I were you, I would definitely order your wedding party flowers from a florist.

I've taken two college classes so far in floral design and have worked at a florist for 4 1/2 months. Bouquets are done one day before the wedding. This would be a nightmare for a bride. You will have too many other things to take care of. Also, corsages and bouts are very time consuming. There are lots of taping and wiring.

I did my first year of winter sowing and had great luck with sunflowers. If I were you I would plant tons of sunflowers. I mean rows and rows, since they are so easy to grow. There are so many different types out there. I had beautiful lemon chiffon sunflowers and burgundy sunflowers. They are annuals. If you grow them this year, you can use the seeds for next year. You would be amazed how many seeds you get from one flower.

The great thing about sunflowers is they take up a lot of space in an arrangement and can be used as a focal flower. They would not be good in a pot that you would give away.

Al brings up a very important point that I'll repeat yet again. Turn OFF the heat once the seeds have germinated! Not only will you reduce the chances of disease, but your seedlings will be stockier (a good thing) and sturdier.

I always germinate my seeds in a shallow seed flat and transplant from that into waiting containers, usually cell packs of some kind. The seed flats are heated but the transplants are not.

I think your plan sounds like a good one.

Thanks to both of you. Good thing you mentioned turning off the heat; that was one of the issues I forgot to ask about.

MikeP

Sorry, it's definitely the Phacelia. Good to know about the lower germ. temps. for the Phacelia. So direct sow for that one then...

I can only speak about starting poppies. They are best direct sown. Start well before March. Now, or as soon your snow is less than 4" high, go out and throw the seed where you want poppies to grow. They don't mind freezing and they don't need to be covered by soil. When the day length and temperature are right, they will germinate. Next year shake the dried seed pods around wherever you want poppies and wait for them. Poppies are easy.