6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Thanks for the info. So it sounds like potassium nitrate is inexpensive and readily available at farm suppliers. That's good to know.
I'm soaking juniper seeds in plain water now and from what I've read they should soak for about 4 or 5 days for the water to soften the very tough seed coat. Maybe a shorter soak in potassium nitrate might help soften the seedcoats and improve germination?
I love Petunia 'Laura Bush'. The flowers are smaller than other hybrids, but it is vigorous, does not peter out fast like others and fragrant to boot:
I planted very small seedlings the last week of May. Here they are on June 16, 2 1/2 weeks after transplanting:
July 4:
July 14:
I sow my seeds in February or March the Winter Sowing method, i.e. sow them in a container, cover with a clear piece of plastic with drainage and ventilation, leave them outdoors in the sun and snow. They germinated in early April.
I have had very good luck with a type called 'Prism Sunshine'. They grow very easy from seed and don't really require a lot of dead heading unless it is a VERY wet year, then they tend to get yucky (as most petunias do in wet weather). I will put up a link so you can view them. I also really like the Blue Wave Petunias (which are really dark purple) but I have never grown them from seed.
Here is a link that might be useful: Prism Sunshine Petunia from park seed
I grow hundreds of seedlings and have found the best way to wet the mixture is fill a 5 gallon bucket about one third full with dry seed starting mix and add water until it is slightly soupy. Then keep adding more dry mix while constantly mixing until you get a moist but not dripping wet mixture. After you have mixed several buckets full you will be able to judge pretty well when you have the right amount of moisture.
Also, try to buy seed starting mix that contains a wetting agent otherwise the peat moss will just float on top. If it doesn't have a wetting agent then use very hot water. But I use Pro-Mix with Biofungicide so I don't use hot water because it might kill the friendly bacteria which eat damping off fungus. If you save rainwater, use that instead of clorinated salt laden tap water.
If by chance you do make the mixture too wet leave the seed starting container uncovered until it dries out a bit.
I have a collection of 33 gallon plastic garbage containers, I buy when they are on sale. Each of my ingredients is kept in its own container with lid. When I fill the containers I moisten the Peat, Vermiculite, Moss, Turface,Chicken Grit or Play Ball. Nothing is stored in a dry form. Anything dry is just too time consuming to mix with anything else. Al
Vivid, you can use a top or cover on seeds while inside, but if you are thinking of using tops inside for seedlings - that's not a good idea and can lead to damp off. The tops inside are for germinaton, maintaining a humid environment for the seeds, they are removed at germination so the seedlings can have circulation/air.
The method Gardenweed is showing you is for sowing of seeds outdoors in winter.
Loribee hit the nail on the head.
I am in the same area as you dragonjaze and that is the schedule I use as well. I look more at soil temps then air temps becuase I can always cover seedlings, but some really hate cold soil.
I would do both as suggest!
I cant wait for spring as well! Have fun :)
Keriann~
Beans are best grown directly into the ground. They do not like to be transplanted. Lettuce grows pretty fast once planted in the ground. Tomatoes usually take 4 - 5 weeks before needing transplanting into the ground. Watermelon & Zuccini also will only take 4 or 5 weeks at the MOST before needing transplanting. Peppers I start about 6 or 7 weeks. They take the longest.
In my case, if I have lots of seed to work with, like native plants from the yard, then I will be a bit more selective with my seeds and typically only use seeds that sink after a good soak.
If I work with purchased seeds and have only a very limited supply, then I will use most seeds whether they float or sink.
hopin4rain,
You sound like you are very ambitious. However, if I were you, I would definitely order your wedding party flowers from a florist.
I've taken two college classes so far in floral design and have worked at a florist for 4 1/2 months. Bouquets are done one day before the wedding. This would be a nightmare for a bride. You will have too many other things to take care of. Also, corsages and bouts are very time consuming. There are lots of taping and wiring.
I did my first year of winter sowing and had great luck with sunflowers. If I were you I would plant tons of sunflowers. I mean rows and rows, since they are so easy to grow. There are so many different types out there. I had beautiful lemon chiffon sunflowers and burgundy sunflowers. They are annuals. If you grow them this year, you can use the seeds for next year. You would be amazed how many seeds you get from one flower.
The great thing about sunflowers is they take up a lot of space in an arrangement and can be used as a focal flower. They would not be good in a pot that you would give away.
Al brings up a very important point that I'll repeat yet again. Turn OFF the heat once the seeds have germinated! Not only will you reduce the chances of disease, but your seedlings will be stockier (a good thing) and sturdier.
I always germinate my seeds in a shallow seed flat and transplant from that into waiting containers, usually cell packs of some kind. The seed flats are heated but the transplants are not.
I think your plan sounds like a good one.
I can only speak about starting poppies. They are best direct sown. Start well before March. Now, or as soon your snow is less than 4" high, go out and throw the seed where you want poppies to grow. They don't mind freezing and they don't need to be covered by soil. When the day length and temperature are right, they will germinate. Next year shake the dried seed pods around wherever you want poppies and wait for them. Poppies are easy.
I'll fertilize approx every 14 days but mixing the product to about half the recommended strength. And I can't say that same timing would work in your climate where you will likely have some summer heat and will be watering (flushing) a container more often than I will here in my cool and cloudier zone. There are several/many growing in containers on the tomato forum, an especially popular subject :) I think there is a good chance you can find a 'neighbor' growing there :)
You've gotten a lot of good advice. I would add:
1. I'm not sure 12 hours is enough time under lights for the seedlings. Recommended time is 14-16 hours and many people leave them on longer. I recognize your space constraints, I have the same type of rack, but that may not be enough time.
2. Are you sure you read that seedlings do better from intake of water on leaves than by the roots? All of my information says that seedlings are best watered from below and then the water should be removed from around the roots. Can we get some clarification on this from others please?
3. Maybe you should retire the 2 year old soil, or at the very least mix it 1/2 and 1/2 with fresh seed starting mix for optimal results. Either way you'll need to fertilize once the seedlings have 2 sets of true leaves. Any good fertilizer will do but be sure to read the label and buy one that is approved for vegetables if that's what you are growing.
Have fun!
i am not an expert but i have tried to cold stratify many times with mixed success . when the roots begin to sprout the plant is vulnerable to damage and should be carefully planted in soil.after that keeping it cold may slow its growth so as to delay it till you can safely raise it outdoors. if leaves appear it must have sun. the trick to all this is timing so your seed sprouts when it is time to place it where it will grow. so much depends on the type of plant and the zone and what you plan to do with the plant.i would plant this apple in a small pot and keep it cold till leaves appear thenkeep it in the sunnyest window till you r last hard freeze has pased apple leaves can probably survive a lite frost .you might not know that while many fruits will grow true to the parent plant apple seeds are notorious for growing into different kinds of apples than what they came from
You should plant the seed with roots in potting soil right away. If the root is stuck in the paper, do not try and free it, you will just break it off. Plant the seed with a little bit of the paper attached. Actually if you plant fresh seed out of the apple stratifying is not a requirement and you can go ahead and plant the other seeds as well. For good reason most of us do not plant seeds to grow a fruiting apple tree as it will take up to 10 years to find if the fruit is worth eating, and the odds are against it. If you want a apple rootstock to grow a standard size apple tree and plan on grafting a good eating apple on to it, that will work. Al
The tubers are the easiest way to grow Amorphophallus konjac. In a short time, they can be used versus the lengthy time from seeds. And they are fun to grow. We have them from quarter size up to 18 lb. I would suggest purchasing those that are 2-3 years old for your own use. The adults have amazing 6' burgundy blooms in the middle of Winter. Getting ready for them now.
Contact me at theherbalexchange1@yahoo.com if you want to learn more about this beautiful and useful plant.
Hope this helps--John Lentz
Blackberries are one of those things that are difficult to transplant along with dewberries. I would suggest wsing them and then about 1st to 2nd set of true leaves transplant. Granted they are not like a tree but when planting they are as picky as a tree.
Meaning that how deep they were when they germinated is how deep they need to be when they are planted. No more no less.
If that sounds difficult it might be best to direct sow them but I would protect the critters from eating them that is for sure. Maybe a short term cover, but with plenty of ventilation.
I 2nd and 3rd what others have said.
1/4 dilution then move up to 1/2 dilution.
Keriann~
With granular fertilizer it's better reduce the dosage on seedlings and young plants. Older plants can take larger amounts of fertilizer but tender seedlings would have some issues with granular fertilizers mixed at "full strength".
Not sure about fish emulsion but might be a good idea to take it easy the first few fertilizer applications until some good roots develop.