6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
In my case, if I have lots of seed to work with, like native plants from the yard, then I will be a bit more selective with my seeds and typically only use seeds that sink after a good soak.
If I work with purchased seeds and have only a very limited supply, then I will use most seeds whether they float or sink.
hopin4rain,
You sound like you are very ambitious. However, if I were you, I would definitely order your wedding party flowers from a florist.
I've taken two college classes so far in floral design and have worked at a florist for 4 1/2 months. Bouquets are done one day before the wedding. This would be a nightmare for a bride. You will have too many other things to take care of. Also, corsages and bouts are very time consuming. There are lots of taping and wiring.
I did my first year of winter sowing and had great luck with sunflowers. If I were you I would plant tons of sunflowers. I mean rows and rows, since they are so easy to grow. There are so many different types out there. I had beautiful lemon chiffon sunflowers and burgundy sunflowers. They are annuals. If you grow them this year, you can use the seeds for next year. You would be amazed how many seeds you get from one flower.
The great thing about sunflowers is they take up a lot of space in an arrangement and can be used as a focal flower. They would not be good in a pot that you would give away.
Al brings up a very important point that I'll repeat yet again. Turn OFF the heat once the seeds have germinated! Not only will you reduce the chances of disease, but your seedlings will be stockier (a good thing) and sturdier.
I always germinate my seeds in a shallow seed flat and transplant from that into waiting containers, usually cell packs of some kind. The seed flats are heated but the transplants are not.
I think your plan sounds like a good one.
I can only speak about starting poppies. They are best direct sown. Start well before March. Now, or as soon your snow is less than 4" high, go out and throw the seed where you want poppies to grow. They don't mind freezing and they don't need to be covered by soil. When the day length and temperature are right, they will germinate. Next year shake the dried seed pods around wherever you want poppies and wait for them. Poppies are easy.
I'll fertilize approx every 14 days but mixing the product to about half the recommended strength. And I can't say that same timing would work in your climate where you will likely have some summer heat and will be watering (flushing) a container more often than I will here in my cool and cloudier zone. There are several/many growing in containers on the tomato forum, an especially popular subject :) I think there is a good chance you can find a 'neighbor' growing there :)
You've gotten a lot of good advice. I would add:
1. I'm not sure 12 hours is enough time under lights for the seedlings. Recommended time is 14-16 hours and many people leave them on longer. I recognize your space constraints, I have the same type of rack, but that may not be enough time.
2. Are you sure you read that seedlings do better from intake of water on leaves than by the roots? All of my information says that seedlings are best watered from below and then the water should be removed from around the roots. Can we get some clarification on this from others please?
3. Maybe you should retire the 2 year old soil, or at the very least mix it 1/2 and 1/2 with fresh seed starting mix for optimal results. Either way you'll need to fertilize once the seedlings have 2 sets of true leaves. Any good fertilizer will do but be sure to read the label and buy one that is approved for vegetables if that's what you are growing.
Have fun!
i am not an expert but i have tried to cold stratify many times with mixed success . when the roots begin to sprout the plant is vulnerable to damage and should be carefully planted in soil.after that keeping it cold may slow its growth so as to delay it till you can safely raise it outdoors. if leaves appear it must have sun. the trick to all this is timing so your seed sprouts when it is time to place it where it will grow. so much depends on the type of plant and the zone and what you plan to do with the plant.i would plant this apple in a small pot and keep it cold till leaves appear thenkeep it in the sunnyest window till you r last hard freeze has pased apple leaves can probably survive a lite frost .you might not know that while many fruits will grow true to the parent plant apple seeds are notorious for growing into different kinds of apples than what they came from
You should plant the seed with roots in potting soil right away. If the root is stuck in the paper, do not try and free it, you will just break it off. Plant the seed with a little bit of the paper attached. Actually if you plant fresh seed out of the apple stratifying is not a requirement and you can go ahead and plant the other seeds as well. For good reason most of us do not plant seeds to grow a fruiting apple tree as it will take up to 10 years to find if the fruit is worth eating, and the odds are against it. If you want a apple rootstock to grow a standard size apple tree and plan on grafting a good eating apple on to it, that will work. Al
The tubers are the easiest way to grow Amorphophallus konjac. In a short time, they can be used versus the lengthy time from seeds. And they are fun to grow. We have them from quarter size up to 18 lb. I would suggest purchasing those that are 2-3 years old for your own use. The adults have amazing 6' burgundy blooms in the middle of Winter. Getting ready for them now.
Contact me at theherbalexchange1@yahoo.com if you want to learn more about this beautiful and useful plant.
Hope this helps--John Lentz
Blackberries are one of those things that are difficult to transplant along with dewberries. I would suggest wsing them and then about 1st to 2nd set of true leaves transplant. Granted they are not like a tree but when planting they are as picky as a tree.
Meaning that how deep they were when they germinated is how deep they need to be when they are planted. No more no less.
If that sounds difficult it might be best to direct sow them but I would protect the critters from eating them that is for sure. Maybe a short term cover, but with plenty of ventilation.
Oh wow, I do not plan to grow on that big of a scale. I am planning on growing about 150 types maybe close to 200 I am still iffy on that though. As far as the cells, blahhhh. That is like speaking a foreign language to me. I have used what I think you might be talking about and for me they are very small and time consuming to keep up in regards of watering. I hate to water anything.
Here is my growing media I am currently using. This picture was taken Friday and 20 more containers were added to this since the picture was taken. As of friday there was 82 types in the picture or out of frame of the picture but on the porch. I will continue to add more containers till march.
On the left is a lasagna pan inside a comforter bag.
I ordered a pound of Bluebonnet seeds & lots of individual packets & am very pleased with all the seeds I have ordered from them. There is a lot of info online if it doesn't have it listed on the packet. I have had great germination success with all the seeds I have ordered from them for the last 2 years. Prices are the best I've seen for native wildflowers!
Here is a link that might be useful: Wildseed Farms
You don't say what your seeds are, but your biggest problem starting them in Quebec in January will be lack of light. I would have started them later. But given that you have already sown them, as soon as they begin to emerge put them under a bright light. Special grow-lights are available. Also if you have a ventilator fan - use it. One of the commonest cause of failure in growing seeds early is damping-off, bacterial/fungal rot caused by damp, dark, cold conditions.
Loribee hit the nail on the head.
I am in the same area as you dragonjaze and that is the schedule I use as well. I look more at soil temps then air temps becuase I can always cover seedlings, but some really hate cold soil.
I would do both as suggest!
I cant wait for spring as well! Have fun :)
Keriann~
Beans are best grown directly into the ground. They do not like to be transplanted. Lettuce grows pretty fast once planted in the ground. Tomatoes usually take 4 - 5 weeks before needing transplanting into the ground. Watermelon & Zuccini also will only take 4 or 5 weeks at the MOST before needing transplanting. Peppers I start about 6 or 7 weeks. They take the longest.