6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
i am not an expert but i have tried to cold stratify many times with mixed success . when the roots begin to sprout the plant is vulnerable to damage and should be carefully planted in soil.after that keeping it cold may slow its growth so as to delay it till you can safely raise it outdoors. if leaves appear it must have sun. the trick to all this is timing so your seed sprouts when it is time to place it where it will grow. so much depends on the type of plant and the zone and what you plan to do with the plant.i would plant this apple in a small pot and keep it cold till leaves appear thenkeep it in the sunnyest window till you r last hard freeze has pased apple leaves can probably survive a lite frost .you might not know that while many fruits will grow true to the parent plant apple seeds are notorious for growing into different kinds of apples than what they came from
You should plant the seed with roots in potting soil right away. If the root is stuck in the paper, do not try and free it, you will just break it off. Plant the seed with a little bit of the paper attached. Actually if you plant fresh seed out of the apple stratifying is not a requirement and you can go ahead and plant the other seeds as well. For good reason most of us do not plant seeds to grow a fruiting apple tree as it will take up to 10 years to find if the fruit is worth eating, and the odds are against it. If you want a apple rootstock to grow a standard size apple tree and plan on grafting a good eating apple on to it, that will work. Al
The tubers are the easiest way to grow Amorphophallus konjac. In a short time, they can be used versus the lengthy time from seeds. And they are fun to grow. We have them from quarter size up to 18 lb. I would suggest purchasing those that are 2-3 years old for your own use. The adults have amazing 6' burgundy blooms in the middle of Winter. Getting ready for them now.
Contact me at theherbalexchange1@yahoo.com if you want to learn more about this beautiful and useful plant.
Hope this helps--John Lentz
Blackberries are one of those things that are difficult to transplant along with dewberries. I would suggest wsing them and then about 1st to 2nd set of true leaves transplant. Granted they are not like a tree but when planting they are as picky as a tree.
Meaning that how deep they were when they germinated is how deep they need to be when they are planted. No more no less.
If that sounds difficult it might be best to direct sow them but I would protect the critters from eating them that is for sure. Maybe a short term cover, but with plenty of ventilation.
Oh wow, I do not plan to grow on that big of a scale. I am planning on growing about 150 types maybe close to 200 I am still iffy on that though. As far as the cells, blahhhh. That is like speaking a foreign language to me. I have used what I think you might be talking about and for me they are very small and time consuming to keep up in regards of watering. I hate to water anything.
Here is my growing media I am currently using. This picture was taken Friday and 20 more containers were added to this since the picture was taken. As of friday there was 82 types in the picture or out of frame of the picture but on the porch. I will continue to add more containers till march.
On the left is a lasagna pan inside a comforter bag.
I ordered a pound of Bluebonnet seeds & lots of individual packets & am very pleased with all the seeds I have ordered from them. There is a lot of info online if it doesn't have it listed on the packet. I have had great germination success with all the seeds I have ordered from them for the last 2 years. Prices are the best I've seen for native wildflowers!
Here is a link that might be useful: Wildseed Farms
You don't say what your seeds are, but your biggest problem starting them in Quebec in January will be lack of light. I would have started them later. But given that you have already sown them, as soon as they begin to emerge put them under a bright light. Special grow-lights are available. Also if you have a ventilator fan - use it. One of the commonest cause of failure in growing seeds early is damping-off, bacterial/fungal rot caused by damp, dark, cold conditions.
All the seeds you mention are best stored cool and dry before sowing.
If you've begun to stratify Asclepias purpurascens/purple milkweed, your choices now are leave it in the fridge until ready to sow, or sow it. If you bring the seeds out of the refrigerator, they will germinate or die. (Once moisture has breached the seed coat and reached the embyro your seeds will die if allowed to dry out again.)
Seeds from the tropical milkweed, Asclepias curassavica don't require the cold treatment - their seed should be stored dried in a cool, dry place. If you received them dry and have added moisture, you may have to change plans and sow them.
lightly cover the seed Soil temperature for germination 70F taking 4-30 days to germinate. pick a desired flowering date & count back 10-12 weeks to sow seed.
lights not needed till germination. Heating mat very helpful since soil temp needs to be 70F
Hi; i've never done any of this before.
Just wanted to know after you do all that, lets say i have an 80% germination rate on the Wendy's salad dome; what am i supposed to do after?
Like, how many seeds on the dome? is that mean that each seed will become a tree in the future? how do i separate each one? How long after germination to plant it on soil?
Warmest regards.
I collected fallen pods, some were not "open". Inside are (as already mentioned)50-100+ seeds. They are translucent tan in color with the 1/4" dia seed itself a very dark brown. Overall they are "flat" with tissue-paper thin "wings" which is the envelope containing the actual seed. The oval, oblong to round envelope may measure about 3/8" to 1/2" and 100 seeds (not the shell) will weigh less than one gram.
I've tried jiffy-pots with commercial potting soil (MiracleGro) inside a humidor (to retain moisture) with bottom heat to about 80F. I've tried scattering on a bed of potting soil with 1/16"-1/8" course desert sand as a cover. So far, in several attempts, no luck germinating.
Any comments or suggestions?
Joshua Tree CA 40 miles north of Palm Springs
BF
The seeds I have been given are GREAT! I am loving it! I will carefully store what I can not use th is year for next year.
Now I need People to GROW the seeds and Dirt..er soil... to grow em in. due to some challenges ( break job,oil heat and feeding 2 teenagers..LOL) I find myself short of funds..so if you want to donate Dirt cheap...Please donate some well Dirt..LOL. for the Garden Project.
More complete seed list available soon..and the worse the Seahawks do the sooner that list will be up...
Here is a link that might be useful: blog
I'll fertilize approx every 14 days but mixing the product to about half the recommended strength. And I can't say that same timing would work in your climate where you will likely have some summer heat and will be watering (flushing) a container more often than I will here in my cool and cloudier zone. There are several/many growing in containers on the tomato forum, an especially popular subject :) I think there is a good chance you can find a 'neighbor' growing there :)
You've gotten a lot of good advice. I would add:
1. I'm not sure 12 hours is enough time under lights for the seedlings. Recommended time is 14-16 hours and many people leave them on longer. I recognize your space constraints, I have the same type of rack, but that may not be enough time.
2. Are you sure you read that seedlings do better from intake of water on leaves than by the roots? All of my information says that seedlings are best watered from below and then the water should be removed from around the roots. Can we get some clarification on this from others please?
3. Maybe you should retire the 2 year old soil, or at the very least mix it 1/2 and 1/2 with fresh seed starting mix for optimal results. Either way you'll need to fertilize once the seedlings have 2 sets of true leaves. Any good fertilizer will do but be sure to read the label and buy one that is approved for vegetables if that's what you are growing.
Have fun!