6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I planted fresh seed into standard seed raising mix in a yoghurt contained with a clear lid. Cut some drain holes in the base. Fill the container up to about 2" deep of seed raising mix, water well and allow to drain. place seed (minus feathery bit) just under soil surface, put clear lid on and place in a well lit area out of direct sun. You dont want them to cook, just keep warm and slightly moist - you shouldnt need to water again until after they germinate. If there is too much condensation on the lid remove and wipe off before replacing. Good luck
Hi, I just looked at the Veronica I harvested this year. Looks like tiny brown specks. Sometimes I can sift out the seeds using a fine strainer. The chaff will probable fall through as well with this method. But when the seeds are round proceed with the following method...Place the crushed matter on a stiff piece of white paper, tilt it gently, you will see these small round seeds roll to the edge of the paper. Collect them onto another paper or dish. Repeat until only the chaff remains. Hope this helps. Jen
They are all probably viable.
I used the hot water cooling method in the linked paper.
SCG
Here is a link that might be useful: Redbud Germination
I have never tried phlox from seed (this year) so can't comment there. I think you are correct on your other ID's.
You can upload images to a hosting site, like photo bucket, then with html tags insert them in the post. You can only upload one image per post via garden web.
You must be in the southern hemisphere to be starting now.
SCG
I use one of two methods either the paper towel method which is a damp paper towel in some sort of plastic container. Then plant into soil once the root is about half an inch long or fill a cell about 3/4 of the way up with regular potting soil then the top layer seed starting mix (I use Eco earth which can be found in most pet stores in the reprile section I also use this for my snakes vivarium which has aroids plants in it that do very well) both methods work very well the first gets a higher percentage of germination but the second make transplanting easier
I know this post is old, but if people are still reading I figured it wouldn't hurt to add my experience. I've read a few articles that give a labor intensive list of things that need to be done to propagate Hibiscus, (scarification then stratification for 90 days) but honestly they haven't been that difficult to get started. I just planted some new coccineus and grandiflorus seeds (gotten from florida wildflower coop) 3 days ago. I scarified them with a hemostat and nail file until I could just barely see pale green/white, and put them in jiffy peat pellets soaked in rainwater (not tap!). The temperature is around 80 degrees lately. There were quite a few seeds that crumbled while I was scarifying, so make sure the seeds you are using are viable! Out of the 72 pots that I planted 3 days ago, 12 already have little plants starting to poke out. Make sure to keep them wet, they like a lot of moisture :)
Hello! (: Below is a picture where you can see what I'm talking about down near the base of a couple of the stems, however, these are catmint seeds. Luckily, it has gone away on most of the yarrow seeds. Yay! (: But I still don't know if it went away because of using hydrogen peroxide solution or if it was just a normal part of the process?
I didn't think they would sprout in the fridge. I'd read that they needed to be stored there to simulate winter dormancy. Plus they came from the small green plums so I wasn't even sure they were developed enough to grow. Pic shows what they look like today. Been keeping them inside but just moved them outside to get some more light for the day.
The mix is pretty easy to do, I can makeup a nice big 20-40litre tub of it in about 3 minutes.
The bactivate costs quite a bit but it's around $85 for a 25kg bag, and the application rates are like 15-30grams per m2. I've already done half of my garden beds and have only used about 1kg. They (bactivate) may later on do smaller bags but they are targeting commercial growers first. The seaweed and bioboost+ liquids were about $15 each for 500mL each, I mix at 20mL per 10 litres and use that on about 5-10m2. I put about 30grams of bactivate into about 20litres 50:50 mix I make now to see how it goes.
Perlite I get for AUD$25 for 100litres. 65L of potting mix is about $14
I live in a high rainfall area with lots of fusarium wilt issues, etc so hopefully beneficial microbes in bactivate will help to limit the damage. There are a few videos on youtube of farmers using bactivate and it seems to have amazing differences in growth but I guess time will tell.
Yeahp, too much work for me LOL! I used to do all that stuff but now use what I can easily obtain.
There is a good article on the container gardening forum about how much perlite or the like you would have to add to really make a difference and YMMV.
I am interested in the Bactivate, possibly just because I have a curious mind, but also wonder if it is like the mycorrhizae.
I did try 'Serenade' a good bacteria spray this year but have not used it long enough to really comment on its effectiveness.
Keep us informed on how you make out.
"Has anyone else had problems with mold using the paper towel/coffee filter method?"
If you nuke and cool the final package before adding seeds rinsed with something like hydrogen peroxide (and your fingers too?), that might help keep mold down.
Mold is only a preventable "infection". Suggestion: since you still have seeds and not sprouts, replace everything with fresh, perhaps sterilizing first, and keep on going with the current seeds by washing the mold off them with something mild like hydrogen peroxide. Hands too.
There are other solutions that are just as easy.