6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

I have lived in this northern California area for almost 80 years and do not remember a summer with less heat. I don't think you did anything wrong. Al

    Bookmark     October 31, 2010 at 9:35AM
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a_name

Thanks Al

You are right, this was a terrible growing season... I guess I have next year to test this out. Would the bad growing season affect direct sown seeds vs. the ones I started in a cold frame that much? Because although the peppers/spinach didn't grow, my tomatoes (started in the cold frame) produced this season.

I don't know enough about direct sowing seeds (not enough experience!) so any information is welcome! Thanks!

    Bookmark     October 31, 2010 at 4:00PM
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karen__w(z7 Durham, NC)

Thank you so much for posting the link. These were cited extensively in propagation classes I've taken the last two summers, so I'm thrilled to be able to download the entire references.

    Bookmark     October 25, 2010 at 7:41PM
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bruce1_2009

I just found another reference, this one for germinating tree and shrub seeds. It is the US Forest Service's Woody Plant Seed Manual. You can find it at www.nsl.fs.fed.us/wpsm/
This appears to have a good deal of information about harvesting, pretreatment of seeds, etc.

Bruce

    Bookmark     October 31, 2010 at 11:04AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Grape Hyacinth - Muscari - sow 40F for germination in many months, or sow outdoors in Fall

Lily of the Valley - Convallaria majalis , Sow at 64-71F for 2-4 weeks, move to 39F for 4-6 weeks, move to 41-53F for germination in a year or more. Or sow outdoors in early Fall.

English Daisy - Bellis perennis , Sow at 68F, often germinates in less than two weeks

Lupin "Dwarf Gallery" Lupinus polyphyllus - Pour hot water over seeds, let soak 1-3 days until swelling noticeable. Sow at 68F for germination in more than two weeks.

Lily of the Nile - Agapanthus - Sow at 70F for germination in 30-90 days

    Bookmark     October 20, 2010 at 11:30AM
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toronto_girl_zone_6(5b/6a)

Hey! Thanks for the information. It really helped!

    Bookmark     October 30, 2010 at 6:41PM
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organic_lander

Did you grow your stevia from seed? If so how did you do that? I purchased seeds for this spring so any tips that you could pass on would be great.

    Bookmark     October 29, 2010 at 1:56PM
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fluffybonbon(9)

I grown them from seeds .
I placed the seeds on top of seed starting soil then cover them to get the extra moisture .
They sprouted in a week.
Hope that help,

    Bookmark     October 30, 2010 at 4:12PM
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cal_mario(9)

Hello,
The Bhut Jolokia pepper is not too difficult to grow as long as it get decent soil,peppers don't like peat moss.Keep the soil moist but not soggy and cover the top with plastic to create some humidity,if you give it bottom heat over night the seeds would germinate faster maybe 3 weeks.I grew about 20 plants this year and they definitely need a very large pot or put in ground later as they get very big.

    Bookmark     October 28, 2010 at 11:41PM
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cal_mario(9)

One other thing be sure to soak the pepper seeds in a paper towel at least two days before you plant them.
good luck!

    Bookmark     October 29, 2010 at 1:29PM
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countrycarolyn(6-7nwTN)

T's gives info on how to start on her website and when she sends you the packs they have detail instructions on the packs also. Color bloom height width how to germinate. She tells you up front the important things!!

Some seeds in the catalog do not have seed instructions till you get the seeds. So really if you need to stratify or a cold frame you really do not know until you already got the seeds.

    Bookmark     October 28, 2010 at 9:09AM
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oregonwoodsmoke(5 OR Sunset 1A)

I like a lot of perennials and bulbs-- love those bulbs. Taller with interesting foliage or twigs in the back. Then have patches to fill in with annuals. Enough space to get a variety of flowers in there, but not enough empty area that it is a monumental task.

I did a monochromatic bed that really looked super. Different shades of pink with a couple of reds for accents and a few whites to help blend the colors. Silver birch trees at the very back so the silver and black trunks formed a nice background for the colors.

I like mums and fall asters because they come back every year and are a nice size. (plus they grow well here, which can't be said for a lot of things)

    Bookmark     October 28, 2010 at 3:12PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Sow the small seed thinly, and barely cover, some light may be beneficial to germination. You can cover with a bit of grit or coarse sand - will help the seed to stay in contact with the moist medium while still letting some light through. Otherwise use a light layer of your same potting medium. Prepare nursery pots using a moisture retentive yet well draining potting medium.....many are good, stay away from Hyponex brand. Scatter the seed, mist with water, cover lightly with grit and mist again. I like roots of trees, shrubs, to have room immediately to grow down - I sow in pots with 5" depth. If you are very attentive and not likely to forget to check, you can cover tops with saran wrap - removing it immediately at the first seed germinating so circulation of air is increased.

    Bookmark     October 25, 2010 at 10:30PM
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bbfan10(5)

Thank you so much! You have really been a real help to me :)
As you know I love this tree and just can't wait to grow it. Hopefully I'll post some pictures of them growing when they do. THANKS :)

    Bookmark     October 27, 2010 at 7:43PM
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lovingmygarden(8b)

When my Datura seed pods get large and I think they are about ready I put an old knee high stocking around it to collect the seeds. That way they can stay on the bush until they are really ready to open.

    Bookmark     October 11, 2010 at 11:53PM
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passiflorapond(9B)

Collect as above and then do some seed swapping. Make a post over in the Brugmansia forums, many people there collect the 'Devil's trumpet' (Datura) along with Angel's trumpet (Brugmansia) You could get some lovely brugmansia and other seeds from the trades. :)

    Bookmark     October 27, 2010 at 7:04AM
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passiflorapond(9B)

They are very easy to take cuttings from. Make sure you have 4 or 5 nodes with all but top leaves removed and place in a see-through disposable drinking cup filled to the top with perlite. Dip end in rooting hormone, wrap in damp unmilled sphagnum and push into perlite, leaving only the top node above. Place in shallow tray, water well and keep perlite moist. You'll have to bring yours inside this time of year. Place in sunny window, and within a few weeks you'll see it perk up and begin to grow. :)

    Bookmark     October 26, 2010 at 7:55PM
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blessed_garden(8)

Thanks for the tips and growing from cuttings. Is it possible(and if so how) to grow and collect seeds from this plant to share with others via mail? Thank You

    Bookmark     October 26, 2010 at 11:49PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Full sun, they will tolerate partial shade. They prefer loose, rich soil that drains well. Drought tolerant once fully established.

Lychnis chalcedonica: No pretreatment of seed is necessary. Sow barely covered 68F, germinates approx two weeks.

    Bookmark     October 24, 2010 at 11:39AM
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tkhooper(7)

Thank you morz8 I appreciate your answering my questions.

    Bookmark     October 24, 2010 at 6:51PM
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yiorges-z5il

cover the pot with soil. keep soil in pot damp ALL winter long... after first freeze mulck the plant... remove the pot & mulch in the spring

    Bookmark     October 22, 2010 at 8:01AM
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yiorges-z5il

If the plant survived the frost then the seed will continue to ripen..... This means the seed will continue to store nutrients & hormones that will enable it to germinate in the spring..... If the plant is frozen then no more sugars/oils & hormones so the seed will not ripen.

    Bookmark     October 19, 2010 at 6:49PM
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wendeyzee(z5Wa)

Thank you!! I guess I was lucky to get one nice ripe zinnia head from zowie before they froze, but not so lucky with Oklahoma cherry, I dont think I got a single ripe head from it, which is a shame because I havent seen it offered as a single color for years!

Thanks again,
Wendey

    Bookmark     October 20, 2010 at 2:43AM
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yiorges-z5il

Most seed contain enough nutrients to get them through germination & production of the 1st set of true leafs therefor "fertilizer" is not neeeded untill later...
in the peat the roots will grow & expand in size BUT when you go to seporate them you will damage the roots & set the plant back.....FOR that reason I germinate my seed in crushed rock so I get good aeration, water & yet the cplants seporate easly.

    Bookmark     October 19, 2010 at 8:03AM
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tkhooper(7)

Remember you always want to hold a plant by a leaf rather than the stem since a plant can recover from a lost leaf but not always from a broken stem. Good luck separating them. Transplanting little tiny plants has always been beyond me.

    Bookmark     October 16, 2010 at 9:08AM
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wally_1936(8b)

It seems that if you end up losing your plants there is a good chance that some of those seeds won't sprout until next year. Be sure to keep them away from any plants you don't want choked to death as they can pull down a very large plant. They are very pretty and produce lots of flowers. I know they can live though our summers even on the coast without weeding or watering and re-seed themselves without any help. They don't like shade but love the sun. They love to climb but will run across the ground to anywhere and climb up any plant it can find. Once they get going they are very hard to weed out if needed, it could take years to stop them once they spread so I find locations where they won't cause any problems with other plants. I love their blooms and foliage so I keep them away from my other plants and enjoy their beauty.

    Bookmark     October 17, 2010 at 10:58PM
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