6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Hi Susan, thanks for commenting.
I didn't know chives were perennials, that's great.
I forgot to mention - oops - that I was interested in indoor container planting for now. I have outdoor plants and pots but I wanted herbs I could use all year long inside.
I may try oregano, sounds good. And maybe rosemary. I am zone 5.
I cook Italian, Chinese, American everything. Yea, I am only interested in herbs I will use.
Thanks.
Store seed at 70F for 2-3 weeks then store at 40F for 12 weeks.....
Then do not cover the seed as light required... soil temp 65-70F & takes 10-21 days to germinate & 13 weeks of growing on time to be large enough to set out "green"
If this does not work then check viability of seed....
1) fertilizer (Nitrogen) neeeded for growth
2) choice of plants important
3) peatmoss retains water
4) plants get oxygen through the roots ... water reduces pore space & therefore the amount of oxygen avaible to the roots. hence poor growth & death
5) sand. perlite. gypsum, increase pore space & improve drainage
5) wet soil promotes fungal growth & root rot etc...
It is always best to start seeds outside. Right now though in my area it is to hot to start anything. Seeds like certain temps for germination. If you were to move your seeds outside now you will need to harden them off. That means that you will need to slowly get them use to the different atmosphere that is outside.
In regards to the wilt it could be several things it could be a pest. It could be lack of water. It could be to much water. I try my hardest to always water any of my seedlings from the bottom. Seedlings outside take more water than those that are inside. I am not familiar with a cocount husk planter, but any planter needs venting holes at the bottom. I would suggest maybe putting your husk in something like a bowl or a shallow dish of some sort, place your husk in a window, water by adding the water to the dish. As the water dries up then add more water if your leaves start to turn yellow slack up on the water for a few days.
This advice is given as thinking that your plants didn't suffer root rot. Look at your seedlings closely if they look like they have been actually pinched, then sorry there is no hope. If there is no pinch mark then your plants are only wilting for the lack of water and sunlight.
Here is a link that might be useful: How to harden off your plants
Here in Texas they had no problem sprouting in the summer and are self seeders. Never worried about the soil as if they will grow in Texas soil they should grow anywhere. Have you any friends who are growing a Rose-of-Sharon Bush? If so ask for a small cutting and dip in root-tone and pot. When it sprouts enough stick it into the soil and let it grow. Even here I had no problem getting them to grow and they were sent to me by a nice lady here on this website and they came in the hot weather and I thought I had lost them as they looked like they had been steam cooked in the mail. I know they even grow in Michigan and make better bushes than here in Texas. They grow more like a dwarf tree.
Paul
Mums are robust growers that often grow too tall and fall over before blooming. Starting them so late in the year that may not be a problem, but should be anticipated. Here in California where we have a long growing season, I have to pinch them back at least twice. Al
I definitely have garden envy of the West coast.
I guess I got the idea it was ephermal because of something I read before I planted. If I recall, I did cycle them in baggies. Slowly I threw out each seed as they rotted. In any case, both Lars and Claret are listed as Astrantia major, really not hybrids. The seed pack was Spring Ballet from Seymours. I think there was one last seed I gave up on in the end.
I am glad to find this post. I too winter sowed Astrantia in 2009 and got nothing, but I just realized (from my records) I kept the container over this last winter. Perhaps I should go check and see if there's anything showing up.
Northerner.
This may help:
http://www.backyardgardener.com/tm.html
http://www.tomclothier.hort.net
This should be the perfect time to start them.
Barbie
It is in July 2010 now, and I harvested some seeds from pink Gerbera Daisies which are living outdoors in the garden during warmer days and indoors in pots during winter for 3 years. They're known as annual, but when you keep them warm enough they grow like perennial and the flowers keep coming back! When they were transplanted outdoors they were popular among bumble bees and so I could get them pollinated and harvest seeds!
I found that not all the seeds from one head of flowers are ripe. Let the head dry on the stalk and become fluffy like that of dandelion puff-ball (not that fluffy though) and search for a bit stouter seeds around the petals. Ripe seeds are rare (maybe around 50th or 100th of total?) but are definitely there if pollinated. And maybe this is why flower shops keep telling us that growing daisy from seeds is near impossible and we'd better get flowers or whole plant from the shop.
Germination is really easy. I succeeded in germinating them in a pot filled with quality potting mix, kept moist by spraying water every day, placed by a sunny window, with room temperature around 70-74 F, within a week.
Hope there are more people who succeed in growing Gerbera Daisies from seeds!
- Ryu
White color isn't a good indication of mature seed, it sounds like you may have picked your pods too soon. Mature ripe daikon seeds should be tan to brown when left to ripen on the plant...you could try letting yours dry on a plate for a few days and see if they take on some color but it may have taken more garden time for harvesting ripe viable seeds.
spread the dirt in areas needed. roughen (break) the sutface dirt......fertilize area if needed then seed the areas at 4 pounds / 1000sq ft. lightly rake the seed in.... top 1/8 inch water regulary (do not allow soil to dry out till the seed germinates......
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I used the Gypsum clay-breaker in one area, and might get another bag (it's inexpensive). Not many birds here, althought they're always lots of ants all over the new seed and soil.
Should the seed just be placed and left on top, or raked in or even submerged slightly within the soil? I just added some head-resistant seed in some areas yesterday. Trying alot of approaches to see what works best.
You do not need to rake it in. I use a leaf rake to evenly spread it around after seading and put a thin layer of manure over it. You do not need to use the manure, if you don't want to. I use it to get nutrients into the soil to further break up the clay.
The ants are not a problem as they just take the seed down to their holes. It will still sprout. If its in area that gets water. If its not in an area that gets water it will not sprout.