6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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pitimpinai(z6 Chicago)

I just let mine drop to the ground.
They take roots right off the bat.
You an pick them and plant them now if you like. They are very easy.

    Bookmark     July 18, 2010 at 7:28PM
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yiorges-z5il

1) fertilizer (Nitrogen) neeeded for growth
2) choice of plants important
3) peatmoss retains water
4) plants get oxygen through the roots ... water reduces pore space & therefore the amount of oxygen avaible to the roots. hence poor growth & death
5) sand. perlite. gypsum, increase pore space & improve drainage
5) wet soil promotes fungal growth & root rot etc...

    Bookmark     July 17, 2010 at 7:57AM
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xenofenix(La/ Zone 9)

Thank you!

    Bookmark     July 17, 2010 at 8:37AM
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countrycarolyn(6-7nwTN)

It is always best to start seeds outside. Right now though in my area it is to hot to start anything. Seeds like certain temps for germination. If you were to move your seeds outside now you will need to harden them off. That means that you will need to slowly get them use to the different atmosphere that is outside.

In regards to the wilt it could be several things it could be a pest. It could be lack of water. It could be to much water. I try my hardest to always water any of my seedlings from the bottom. Seedlings outside take more water than those that are inside. I am not familiar with a cocount husk planter, but any planter needs venting holes at the bottom. I would suggest maybe putting your husk in something like a bowl or a shallow dish of some sort, place your husk in a window, water by adding the water to the dish. As the water dries up then add more water if your leaves start to turn yellow slack up on the water for a few days.

This advice is given as thinking that your plants didn't suffer root rot. Look at your seedlings closely if they look like they have been actually pinched, then sorry there is no hope. If there is no pinch mark then your plants are only wilting for the lack of water and sunlight.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to harden off your plants

    Bookmark     July 14, 2010 at 8:56PM
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wally_1936(8b)

Here in Texas they had no problem sprouting in the summer and are self seeders. Never worried about the soil as if they will grow in Texas soil they should grow anywhere. Have you any friends who are growing a Rose-of-Sharon Bush? If so ask for a small cutting and dip in root-tone and pot. When it sprouts enough stick it into the soil and let it grow. Even here I had no problem getting them to grow and they were sent to me by a nice lady here on this website and they came in the hot weather and I thought I had lost them as they looked like they had been steam cooked in the mail. I know they even grow in Michigan and make better bushes than here in Texas. They grow more like a dwarf tree.
Paul

    Bookmark     July 15, 2010 at 12:38PM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Mums are robust growers that often grow too tall and fall over before blooming. Starting them so late in the year that may not be a problem, but should be anticipated. Here in California where we have a long growing season, I have to pinch them back at least twice. Al

    Bookmark     July 15, 2010 at 10:04AM
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fall cropwhen do i start seeds for fall? lettuce, broc, caul, chard, etc.
Posted by gratefulgardener3300 July 13, 2010
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yiorges-z5il

the packages of these vegies have the # days to maturity. Take the date you want the crops then count back

    Bookmark     July 14, 2010 at 2:50PM
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Loretta NJ Z6

I definitely have garden envy of the West coast.

I guess I got the idea it was ephermal because of something I read before I planted. If I recall, I did cycle them in baggies. Slowly I threw out each seed as they rotted. In any case, both Lars and Claret are listed as Astrantia major, really not hybrids. The seed pack was Spring Ballet from Seymours. I think there was one last seed I gave up on in the end.

    Bookmark     December 23, 2005 at 2:15PM
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northerner_on(Z5A ONCanada)

I am glad to find this post. I too winter sowed Astrantia in 2009 and got nothing, but I just realized (from my records) I kept the container over this last winter. Perhaps I should go check and see if there's anything showing up.
Northerner.

    Bookmark     July 14, 2010 at 9:54AM
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sebastian(8-9)

This may help:
http://www.backyardgardener.com/tm.html
http://www.tomclothier.hort.net
This should be the perfect time to start them.
Barbie

    Bookmark     May 25, 2007 at 3:46AM
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Seonghee Ryu

It is in July 2010 now, and I harvested some seeds from pink Gerbera Daisies which are living outdoors in the garden during warmer days and indoors in pots during winter for 3 years. They're known as annual, but when you keep them warm enough they grow like perennial and the flowers keep coming back! When they were transplanted outdoors they were popular among bumble bees and so I could get them pollinated and harvest seeds!

I found that not all the seeds from one head of flowers are ripe. Let the head dry on the stalk and become fluffy like that of dandelion puff-ball (not that fluffy though) and search for a bit stouter seeds around the petals. Ripe seeds are rare (maybe around 50th or 100th of total?) but are definitely there if pollinated. And maybe this is why flower shops keep telling us that growing daisy from seeds is near impossible and we'd better get flowers or whole plant from the shop.

Germination is really easy. I succeeded in germinating them in a pot filled with quality potting mix, kept moist by spraying water every day, placed by a sunny window, with room temperature around 70-74 F, within a week.

Hope there are more people who succeed in growing Gerbera Daisies from seeds!

- Ryu

    Bookmark     July 10, 2010 at 6:14PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

White color isn't a good indication of mature seed, it sounds like you may have picked your pods too soon. Mature ripe daikon seeds should be tan to brown when left to ripen on the plant...you could try letting yours dry on a plate for a few days and see if they take on some color but it may have taken more garden time for harvesting ripe viable seeds.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2010 at 5:16PM
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yiorges-z5il

spread the dirt in areas needed. roughen (break) the sutface dirt......fertilize area if needed then seed the areas at 4 pounds / 1000sq ft. lightly rake the seed in.... top 1/8 inch water regulary (do not allow soil to dry out till the seed germinates......

    Bookmark     July 7, 2010 at 12:47PM
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oilpainter(3)

To post a photo--
Get a photobucket account--it's free. Upload your photo. Under or beside the picture you'll see a bunch of URL formats for the picture. Click on the one that says HTML. It should automatically copy. Go to the thread here and right click and choose paste. It will show up as writing but when you submit it will be a picture.

    Bookmark     July 8, 2010 at 3:46PM
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happs_monarch

I pulled one of them up, and the root seemed fine, but from the leaves to about half way down the stem they are dead. If I were to snip them, would they recover?

    Bookmark     July 6, 2010 at 8:50PM
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oilpainter(3)

That's a hard lesson to learn!

Leave them a while and see if they get new growth below the dead part. If you cut them off now they won't survive at all with no leaves. The stem may not be completely dead and have enough alive to get nutrients.

    Bookmark     July 7, 2010 at 2:24AM
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neonrider(USDA 8A ^ Sunset 31 ^ Mid-SC)

I put them in water, because the seller germinating instructions said to keep in water for 24 hours, but I kept them for like 2 weeks changing water every day as i could not get to saw them quickly as i had no spare pots nor soil mix sand i did not want them to dry out again, but then 3 days no water change cause i forgot to change water and they now smell badly, not sure whether 1 or all 25 have this smell. I sprayed fungicide on them (is that ok to do or should i use bleach instead?), but they still smell. Do you think the (some of the) seed might still be good for germinating/sowing? Can I attempt to saw such stinky seed? I would saw them one seed per pot not to spread if any contamination occurs. How do I check for viability of the (smelling) seeds (Cedrus Libani)?

I mix a good mix of perlite, sand, wood chips bark (tiny) and two kinds of soil and mix well all that and saw all my seeds in it in separate pots for my own garden.

    Bookmark     July 5, 2010 at 8:38AM
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oilpainter(3)

To my mind all of your seed is contaminated. I doubt any will sprout.

Some people soak their seeds overnight before planting, but 24 hours is the most you should leave them.
Next time put your seeds in a wet but not sopping coffee filter and put the seeds and filter in a baggie. For pete's sake when you know you are going to plant have your soil mix ready before you do anything with the seeds.

    Bookmark     July 5, 2010 at 3:59PM
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lauranell(8 South Mississippi)

This is a very easy seed to sprout. Let it soak over night, put it in your starter mix, I set mine on top of the water heater and they (three out of five) grew beautifully. A couple of added notes: If you let them wind around wire they will break at the wire when they get woody and too tight. Also, if you break a piece off, just pop it in the gound and it too will grow, no special treatment. They don't really start taking off until it is really hot. They form very few seed pods (mine made two but one was on the vine that broke at the wire so it didn't develope). So, I got six seeds this year. But, I do have a plant inside, one that I just stuck in the dirt. It is very small, I move it in and out as weather permits. If the temps are at least 40 at night I let it stay out. The ones in the garden, I just don't know. I was hoping they will come back this year. Good luck, get the seeds, the plant won't do anything until it is hot anyway.

LauraNell

    Bookmark     January 17, 2009 at 11:17PM
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greenpassion(z4-z5 VT)

I have considered looking for seed in the fall, but I read on this site that rooting them in soil is supposed to be so easy. Is it??

    Bookmark     July 5, 2010 at 1:01PM
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susanlynne48(OKC7a)

Found this old thread and wondered if any of you are successfully growing this milkweed. I was able to get germination from seed, and my plant is now about 8-10" tall. The leaves at the bottom were starting to yellow, so I potted it up to a larger pot, but the leaves continue to turn yellow and then drop off.

I can't seem to find the right balance of water for it. If I let it get too dry, the leaves droop and then turn yellow. If I wait until it is dry down to about 2" the leaves still turn yellow and fall.

I am using Sta-Green potting soil. I want to grow it in a pot so I can bring it in to overwinter. I keep potting it up as the roots reach the bottom of the container. I've not let it get rootbound. Maybe the soil is too rich? The mix has some fertilizer in it, so I've not added any additional fertilizer to it because most milkweeds do fine without a fertilization program.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Susan

    Bookmark     June 21, 2010 at 7:41PM
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karyn1(7a)

I think the problem I had previously was the seeds. I bought more seeds from Thailand 2 years ago and have had excellent results, even with the leftover seeds I sowed this season. I just pressed them into moist soil and covered the tray. They sprouted within 2 weeks.

I keep mine in pots and don't move them up much in size. I have blooming plants in 1 gal pots and will keep them in that size for about 3 years before moving them up. I let mine go kind of dormant over the winter so they haven't gotten huge. I assume if I moved them into large containers and allowed them to continue growing over the winter they get quite large.

    Bookmark     July 5, 2010 at 6:24AM
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jojosplants(9/ Tucson, Az.)

Hi ree,
You may want to go over to the cactus and succulent forum and try doing a search. If you dont find your answeres, just post your question there.

Alot of people in that forum grow this plant.

Good luck,
JoJo

    Bookmark     July 3, 2010 at 10:52PM
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karyn1(7a)

Once they sprout they need to be kept lightly moistened, not wet. I agree it sounds like you may have over-watered. Allow the surface of the soil to dry a bit before watering again. The amount of water needed decreases as they get bigger and they should get almost no water over the winter. Use a well draining mix but not sure about limestone sand. Try something neutral like sharp or builders sand or forget the sand and just use the perlite.

    Bookmark     July 5, 2010 at 6:14AM
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oilpainter(3)

Well some may give you flowers in September and some won't germinate in the heat of July and August and some may not flower at all.

Is it too late--I'd say so, but if you want to try go ahead. If it were me I'd save them for next year and get a summers flowering from them.

With the Calendula--direct sow in early spring. They do not freeze unless there is a hard frost and they are seedlings. They will drop their seeds and come up again and again.

    Bookmark     July 2, 2010 at 8:42PM
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